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MoppelTheWhale

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Hi guys,

a few days ago i got my st-v board and Winter Heat, just in time for my multi which should hopefully arrive soon. In the beginning it scared me a bit because it always stopped working. It turned out the voltage was to low, with 5,05v it works flawless :D

But now i have a few questions.

1.) The st-v board has a battery holder, but atm no battery in it. What battery do i need and what is it for? while testing everything seemed to work fine, it even seemed to keep the high scores between (short) power off periods.

2.) I want to play both Radiant Silvergun with three Button Layout and Die Hard Arcade, so i think I need a Multibios or at least a japanese bios to swap out... I don't want to swap chips all the time, so Modbios it is :D . Where is the proper place to buy one (i more or less only found arcademodbios or ebay...) and on arcademodbios they want to know which bios type of ic8 i have.
I don't have a clue what that means (IC8 means it is the chip on chip position 8 i think), the chip there is completely covered by a big blank sticker, do i have to remove that to see andy markings?

3.) The last question is about my Neo Geo MV1FZ board. The battery look good for me and i'm not sure if i should swap it. I read something about using a Supercap instead. WHen i take the Supercap Route i keep the charging mechanism, when i plan to use a normal battery i have to remove the charging...

Sorry for the noobish questions, i just don't want to destroy my stuff ||

Cheers and thanks for your help!
 
CR2032 for the STV. Saves scores and settings.

REMOVE the Neo-Geo battery. It will fail and leak and destroy the board.
 
STV uses a CR2032 (non-rechargeable), and I would install a CR2032 to the MVS as well and disable the charging circuit.

Dunno about the ST-V bios, but I'm sure some members here can burn you one :)
 
that's what i thought for the mvs... is there an easy was to peel off the stuff on the solder side?
 
that's what i thought for the mvs... is there an easy was to peel off the stuff on the solder side?
luck and patience :D
Some parts of my board went of easy, some parts I really had to rub off with cleaning alcohol.

I didn't remove the complete pad, just the parts needed to reach the solder points of the battery and left the rest

PS. Cool avatar, awesome game :D
 
hehe, thanks, could say the same about your avatar :thumbsup:

Sexy Parodius was my christmas present to myself, my first import from Japan...


when i did the MV1FZ stereo mod the parts did not come off properly... i desoldered the resistors, are the parts glued additionally? Removing them got pretty violent an was not pretty... Do you have a tip for that?
 
Here is the Stereo Mod massacre, the caps i removed were positioned under the blue and green wires, contact were the blue wire needed to go was damaged while removing, so it got messy X/
IMG_0529.JPG


The Pad removal was super easy with a little help from a hair dryer - it went off in one piece, i bet i could put it back on once i'm finished...
IMG_0530.JPG
I got a battery holder from a friend, so i'll propably do the replacement tonight after work...
 
blah.jpg
again, i removed the solder with the copper wick but the parts don't want to come off...

Rubbing alcohol didn't help...

Any suggestions, i'd prefer doing it without a dremel ?(
 
Ah, I meant rubbing alcohol for the foamy sticky stuff :P
 
i knew that, i was just wondering if the parts were glued in place in addition to the soldering... atm i can't get them off

Update:
got them off with lots of solder and even more flux. Installed the battery holder and everything is working fine. :thumbup:

It's really scary how small the distance is between "I've only soldered once 25 years ago, i don't know if i can do this..." and "modding an old pcb - i like it" 8o


Now all i'm missing is a St-v multibios... :saint:
 
Last edited:
Totally not a coin battery and VERY prone to leaking. Leaking batteries is the biggest killer of MVS boards and is a well known problem.
 
the one i removed was a coin battery and looked still pretty good - but it feels safer now after replacing.
 
Maybe it was replaced by a previous owner? I've not come across an MVS with a coin battery from the factory, but happy to be corrected.

Either way batteries are evil! PGMs often die from the same problem. Supercaps make me feel more at ease.
 
i'm pretty sure it wasn't the original battery, it looked at least newer than the board. Perhaps there's a date or something printed o the battery, i'll have a look tomorrow.
 
OK - MVS batteries - depends if you have an FZ or an FS :)

FS's had the drum batteries and yep they do go really really bad.
FZ's have a soldered on rechargeable coin cell. While I've picked up a board that had it removed leaving just the metal contacts, I've not yet had an FZ battery that's gone totally explosive on me. A little fuzzing on the outer surface (usually underneath), but nothing full on explosion yet. Famous last words?

Looks like you already figured out the foam pad. I've done a mix of total removal on some boards (some with trace work require that anyway), or just cut out a teeny rectangle aroudn the SMD resistors / diodes you picture.

If you're having trouble removing them.. add a load of solder between both contact points so you are heating both sides at the same time. Then with everything molten, give the thing a nudge to one side. You'll be able to solder-suck the lot, including the component.

I'd be interested to see your full 1FZ stereo mod in full actually. I have a whole heap of these to work on, and I've not done the stereo mod yet, purely because all my running cabs are still mono. However with an Astro City in the queue... stereo is going to happen :P
 
It's really scary how small the distance is between "I've only soldered once 25 years ago, i don't know if i can do this..." and "modding an old pcb - i like it" 8o
Absolutely! ^^

It's a great feeling saving stuff from the scrap!
 
@Flinnster you are correct, it's an FZ board.

The Stereo Mod i did was the one i found on Jamma Nation X http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/tutorials.html - MV1FZ Stereo Mod) this one is fairly easy, there's another one that amps the audio signal but when i found it i already did the mod.


Here are two pics:
IMG_0538.JPG

i used hot glue to reduce pulling on the cables, a detailed photo where the wires are soldered on is a few posts up in this thread. Here i was more ore less still in control of the hot glue gun, which totally got out of hand on the next pic :/

IMG_0537.JPG


again i wanted to reduce strain on the solder points, but it looks horrible, i know. - on the other hand it looks perfectly like snk :P


In hindsight i should have put the mod on the underside of cart plastic cover. I kept the wires pretty long so that i can remove the cover and put away when i need ccess to the parts side of the board (for example for desoldering an old battery ;) ). One day i think i'll shorten the wires and and add a connector...
 
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