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Problems with CPS2 Multikit - after flashing, nothing on screen

mathewbeall

mathewbeall

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Hi Folks - I am having what seems to be a similar issue.

I just got my CPS2 Multikit today - very excited! I have a Japanese Xmen Vs. Street Fighter that I have set aside to use. It is a rev 7 board, and I ordered a GPAL chip, just to make sure since what was installed in my board was weird.

The board also didn't have a battery - so it's already been suicided.

I drop the GPAL chip in, and test again with the original ROMS before taking them out - no problem.

I take all the ROMS out and then install the multikit - and while the multikit seems to work and flash fine (from what I can tell from the screen), nothing actually happens on the monitor... it stays black/grey the entire time.

I saw that some folks had to short exc5 - which I tried, but that didn't seem to do anything either.

Next steps?!

Thanks,

Matt
 
Just a few more notes - during the flashing process - the screen appears to be fully off (so the reset wire is working)... then after it boots, is the blackish screen.

Looking at the board with the top up, on C9 - pin 1 is at the top, correct?

Matt
 
I tried the original text games .7z - it has 1944, Gigawing, DDSOM and Mars Matrix. All of them work except for DDSOM....

So - it looks like the card is working - I just need to get a rom pack that is current and works fine.

Matt
 
If you've installed the latest Key Writing firmware and soldered the wires you want the encrypted pack.
If you've only installed the latest firmware (but not soldered any wires) then you want to use an original decrypted pack.

IMO it's worth the extra time/effort to solder the wires for original encrypted ROMs.
If you don't solder, or just don't want to bother... Yea the decrypted (Avalaunch) pack is (far as I can tell) perfect.
 
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Yup - did all the soldering (and JUST received my CPS2 - so assuming it's at the latest firmware) and downloading what I think is the encrypted pack now from this link that I got from the forum:

http://filefactory.com/folder/85e68a1a5763b811

Getting the base pack that is shows is about a month old.

Matt
 
Had something odd happen, thought I would post it and see if anyone else has experienced this.

I just got back from being gone for 4 days - and I went to my testing bench, and fired up my CPS2 board with the Multi on it. It turned on, but the screen was a reddish hue - like it was acting before.

I found that odd - and tried about 4 more times, loading different games, etc. no go.

I then went and copied the original "encrypted test" files (gigawing, etc.) and somehow that "kick started" it - and now it's working again with the old files.

Any idea? It literally just sat there for 4 days - didn't move an inch.

Matt
 
mathewbeall said:
Any idea? It literally just sat there for 4 days - didn't move an inch.
Click to expand...
Not sure, but I can tell you sometimes people have to re-short EXE5 to get it working again.
Even when nothing has changed and the board has just been in storage.
 
Can I just remove EXC5 and do away with the problem entirely - or does that need to be there?

And maybe just me turning off/on a bunch of times resolved the issue - as I didn't short it out to get it working again.

Matt
 
Well don't want to do that then.... I will keep testing a bit more. Maybe I will hook up a pushbutton on the outside to short the cap.
 
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I think the capacitor at EX-5 is there simply to provide some buffer time to replace the battery on the board. (Otherwise it would drop dead the second you desolder the first leg of the battery, not survive for 40 or so minutes like they do now).

While the game is actually running, the key information is powered by the normal five volt rail into the CPU. So unless EX-5 is used for other important purposes, I don't see a reason why it even needs to remain on the board.
 
Jdurg said:
While the game is actually running, the key information is powered by the normal five volt rail into the CPU. So unless EX-5 is used for other important purposes, I don't see a reason why it even needs to remain on the board.
Click to expand...
True, but what about when the multi sends the reboot signal after writing the key?
Isn't the 5v supply cut for a second?
And IF it is cut for a sec, and you didn't have a battery or EXE5 to hold a charge, wouldn't the key blank and the encrypted game simply suicide after reboot?
 
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I've not tried but I think someone mentioned it still works with the multi.
 
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