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I think we were unable to purchase because we asked 64-in-1 and only 32-in-1 was available, now he made available a 50-in-1 as an answer to our demand, and he wants to check interest, nice move from him. we were refunded by the way
 
is there a link for the 50-n-1?
 

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Did anyone ever get one of these?
 
I got mine a slightly over a week back. Been busy with 30th anniversary so haven't had chance to play it much.

Quality of the motherboard isn't bad a few scuffs, no cracks or chips, but if you are seriously OCD then maybe think twice. It was packed well as instructed.

y88TD5C.jpg


MpY3nkU.jpg
 
Looking forward to your review ;)

Btw. 10MHz A board from the looks of it?
 
Can you pass me the model number of one of the Flash chips? I am guessing they begin with 29LV***. I'd like direct confirmation of the voltage mismatch. If the multi is otherwise good, then maybe it would be worth the effort to build a short interposer board to sit between it and the A-board to provide level translation.
 
Looking forward to your review ;)

Btw. 10MHz A board from the looks of it?
It should be a 12MHz, I'll double check it though.


Can you pass me the model number of one of the Flash chips? I am guessing they begin with 29LV***. I'd like direct confirmation of the voltage mismatch. If the multi is otherwise good, then maybe it would be worth the effort to build a short interposer board to sit between it and the A-board to provide level translation.
I've sent some pics over to you, let me know if there any good.
 
Disappointing finds! Here's the datasheet for the flash chips in use: http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet2/6/0r1g08yx891hut3ugjhay7d4023y.pdf
Unless there are more chips on the bottom doing level translation out of site, this board is putting 3.3V devices on 5V busses. Likely faces the same higher current issues as other cheap flash carts do, with the flash chips' input protection diodes sinking current from the 5V signals going into them.

The absolute maximum IO voltage for this chip is VCC +/- 0.6V, which gives us 2.7V - 3.9V as acceptable input ranges.

The datasheet does specify that the maximum voltage overshooting to VCC+2 (5.3V in this case) is tolerable so long as it is less than 20ns during transitions. In the case of address lines, though, many of them will be driven to 5V for a steady period of time, so we can not rely on a footnote in a datasheet like this to guarantee device safety.

Given the fragility of CPS-A-01 and CPS-B-** in CPS1 systems, I would be wary of running a board like this.
 
sounds like we could use some photos of the underside of the ROM board for confirmation... maybe even some photos of the top with the C-Board and LCD sub-board removed.
 
Just to add to mikes post, there are no chips on the underside of the B-board so it'd most likely the board is putting 3.3V devices on 5V busses. It's ashame as I liked the idea of this being a non SD-card board.
 
Well, we could just add a small regulator to get voltages down to 3,3V (I don't like using diodes).

Also, does it have "good" roms? Or are they bootleg?

I'm mildly interested in this.
 
Well, we could just add a small regulator to get voltages down to 3,3V (I don't like using diodes).

Also, does it have "good" roms? Or are they bootleg?

I'm mildly interested in this.
It's been said before but there are 2 things to consider:
- powering the chips properly with a regulator to drop 5V to 3.3V
- convert levels on buses from/to 5V/3.3V

Even if EPROMs are powered with proper 3.3V it doesn't change a thing about the fact they are 3.3V devices working on 5V buses. Level shifters must be used.
 
Also, does it have "good" roms? Or are they bootleg?
Define "bootleg" better... It won't be running "clean" ROMs if that's the question/expectation.
The game code must be patched to work with the B21 (SF2:CE/HF) C-board at the very least.

Other games like Forgotten Worlds would need patching to handle spinner to stick differences, and CPS1.5 games like Punisher just have the Q-sound 100% ripped out and replaced.

I don't want to be insulting to the OP of this thread, but the more I read about this device the more it reminds me of Chinese 161-in-1 MVS carts *cough*whicharefuckinggarbagedudezdon'twasteonedimeonem*cough*
 
Other games like Forgotten Worlds would need patching to handle spinner to stick differences, and CPS1.5 games like Punisher just have the Q-sound 100% ripped out and replaced.
I made a hack many years ago to play FW with buttons instead of spinners like the MD or PCE versions.
Clearly not the same but at least it's not worse than the console versions.
 
Well, we could just add a small regulator to get voltages down to 3,3V (I don't like using diodes).

Also, does it have "good" roms? Or are they bootleg?

I'm mildly interested in this.
Apocalypse is right here. Driving the ROMs at 3.3V is only one side of the equation. That protects the ROMs themselves. I believe the PCB itself already drives the ROMs at the current voltage.

The problem is that they are still being interfaced directly to the CPS1's 5V IO signals.

In addition, the lack of bypass capacitors in the populated board has me a bit grumpy. At least there are spots to solder them on yourself.
 
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