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Type X2 won't POST, doesn't seem to be RAM or GPU

kazuo

kazuo

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Got a Type X2 secondhand and it powers on fine, but won't POST.

Remove RAM, GPU installed, 4-3-4-3 error code beeps. Seems to mean "Boot code was read OK", which I have zero idea how to interpret - mobo is fine?

Remove RAM and GPU, 4-3-4-3.

Remove GPU, RAM installed, won't POST.

I tried swapping RAM and a GPU from a known working Type X2 and I get the exact same results.

I haven't yet tried to remove the CPU, as I'm not able to do it at the moment due to time concerns, but does anyone have any opinions thus far on where I am at in terms of troubleshooting? Am I wasting my time with a CPU reseat/swap - do I have a dead mobo?

Thanks!
 
Both boards use 2x256MB modules; I did try using a single module in either slot, none of the four allowed for successful POST.

I should have also mentioned that I tried the GPU and the RAM from the non-working board in the working board, and the board POSTs and boots just fine.
 
Have you tried the non working mobo on a different power supply to rule that out? Also, has the BIOS battery died?

"Boot code read ok" would make sense if the battery has died, because it can read the default settings.
 
Didn't try swapping the CPU yet, but I might do that next. Would swapping that, or the PSU be easier? I'd like to just try the less painful option first. ;)

What voltage should I expect from the CMOS battery? I can pull out the DMM and test it.

Thanks for the help so far, everyone!
 
If the cmos battery is a coincell (CR2032 or CR2025) you should read at least 2.9V If it's below that, you better replace it.

On most pc boards, you can use the metal case (chassis) as gnd.
 
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Had the same symptom when i got my ttx2.I claened mobo,DIMMs and graphic card, but nothing happened.Then I removed the CPU fan, the thermal grease completely dried out. I thought the CPU might be dead. Just swap the CPU and made it work. :)
 
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Thanks for the suggestions, everyone! Going to try CPU swaps first, then go from there.

I just removed one of the CPUs to prep, and I'm disgusted at how much thermal grease/paste the factory put on these. It's like they frosted a cake, took me a good 15 minutes to completely clean off the heatsink, CPU and the bracket. Wow.

I'll follow up and let everyone know how it goes!

EDIT: Still won't post, even with the new CPU. CMOS battery reads 3.04V on the DMM. Going to try swapping CPUs with the working board, and vice versa, but going to assume this thing is dead as a doornail.
 
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I have a similar issue with a regular TTX which I'm currently looking into for another member. This one has the caps bulging out like my dad's stomach after a big Christmas dinner. Do yours still look fine? I've desoldered the caps and ordered some new ones including another CPU hoping it will show something onscreen afterwards.
 
I have 2 TTX2's that are doing the same thing. I've swapped out everything including the processor with no luck. When I get a chance I will start on the capacitors and Transistors. These are common motherboard faults. Too much to do too little time.
 
It happened frequently with pc boards from that period that the capacitors dried out and gave up. The boards have a voltage monitoring circuit that turns off the supply if some voltage rails are out of specification. Bad capacitors create increased ripple and can cause the protection to trigger.

Not only the voltage rails coming from the supply are monitored, but also those generated on the motherboard itself used internally by the processor and the memory modules.

Arcade systems run many hours / day, so the aging of the motherboard happens even faster.

Removing the motherboard capacitors is often difficult as the boards are multilayers and the capacitors are connected to large cupper areas on the inner layers of the board. They also often use leadfree solder which has a higher melting point.

Professional repair centers pre heat such boards so that it becomes easier to melt the solder. Obviously, you can't go to high with that as it also can damage the surrounding components.
 
True, they are definitely not easy to remove. Simply turning up the heat did the trick for me though (for the TTX), a bit of flux can work wonders as well I reckon.
 
Final follow-up: Swapped CPUs around, confirmed the dead board is dead. It's a motherboard issue as all of the other components work and boot on a known working PCB. Will probably sell this for parts eventually; feel free to PM me an offer if you want it.

I don't see any bulging/leaky caps, so the issue lies somewhere that isn't immediately apparent, and I can't be bothered to put anymore time into this - I already have a working board.

Core 2 Extreme X6800 definitely works on TX2, though. Just upgraded my existing setup with that while testing. :)
 
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