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Yep that's a K7000.

A lot of times the OPS connected the video wrong on these. Make sure the V-Sync wire is only going to Pin 3 on the video connector and not jumped to pin 2 also. If that is ok then test these in this order:

Transistor Q7
Swap cap C22
Swap IC2
 
You mean like this one?

s0a3ZKcl.jpg
 
mitsu: I'm going to need a LOT more information on the suggested repairs.. where do I find an IC for these buggers.. I dont know or how to test transitor.. but if the cap kit doesnt fix it.. im burning the machine to the ground.. because I have spent way more money on this mofo then it was worth..

I bought it for $300 with the "understanding" it needed a PSU - to find out that it really needed a new jamma board ($165), another almost $75 in parts for the guns and they still act wonky and I need to look at the pots/gears again as the guns still arent properly registering, $20 in a cap kit and a remote board..

the whole machine working isnt barely worth $600 and im almost at that... oh and probably about $120 in repairs for the first board that i wont most likely recover at this point.
It will cost me at LEAST $100 + to get the monitor repaired by atari jim IF he has time to work on it - which he doesnt.

At this point its not worth saving.. THOUGH a new chasis probably isnt too expensive.. I might throw one in and try to recover the cost of everything by reselling.. I dont know.. a break even would be nice at this point
 
Its still a revision of the K7000. K7000 is sorta a generic term for several revisions. They are all close enough that the standard schematics will work for them all. They are also very easy monitors to work on.

The video connector pinout never changed between monitor generations.
 
draygor / mits: according to that last image.. vsync is in pin 2.. but (mits) said it should be pin 3.. look at left side p1/p3
 
Good news is you have an image. So you're in good shape. A V-hold issue is relatively easy to resolve. I say start with simply swapping out the remote board (P632 Remote) if you have another known good working K7000 board. Better yet, check if you even have a good enough connection of the remote board first. If swapping out the remote board fixes the problem, just get a new one from arcadecup. Should be $18 shipped from here: http://www.arcadecup.com/

You can also follow Fromm's chart. This has been a god-send for me. Once I learned how to test the B+ and test the high voltage shutdown, I am able to follow the rest of the flow diagram to fix my K7000 chassis. You'll need a multimeter and a soldering tools if you wish to go further with Fromm's chart.
 
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