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NoGoodCitizen

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Hi y'all, I don't post often here lately unless I'm buying something, so in a sense it's good to be back.

I'm putting together a Darksoft CPS2 kit for a friend of mine who provided both the kit and a suicided MSHvsSF B board (blue region). I'm wondering if some of my issues are related to the B board's condition, as it seems the battery exploded and corroded a few components in the surrounding areas close to it. I tried to clean things up as best as I could and move on with the install. Upon powering on I noticed that all I would get was a blank screen, so I thought, hmm.. strange. Looked at the LCD and it displayed absolutely nothing (lit up, no text info) - adjusted the brightness pot both ways, still, nothing. After about a couple hours of being frustrated on a random whim I hit down a few times on the keypad, then enter. The WRITE light kicked on over on the Darksoft board, so I waited. Suddenly, poof, I had a game playing. As it turns out it would appear the LCD isn't working properly and doesn't display any information, just a backlight.

So I breathed a sigh of relief as the game loaded, and... graphical artifacts & sprite errors everywhere, like whole characters missing and each game looking virtually unplayable unless you are into having invisible character wars. I don't think the kit is at fault for this, I question the quality of the original B board that was used to begin with. I tried everything from reseating all components multiple times to trying to adjust the pins on the rom slots of the B board over in the graphics bank to make better contact. I'm basically at a loss this point and am hoping to maybe get some insight, and if anything do what I can in my power to keep Mitsurugi from having to take in more work.

I am using a Toshiba 4gb SD card slow formatted (FAT32) through Windows Utility.

Any advice would be appreciated, I can post pictures of my work later when my phone is charged. Thanks <3
 
You say the battery leaked so I'm close to 100% sure that is the issue with the corruption. As for the LCD you might have a bad lcd or a bad cable.
 
Do you still have all the original roms? Have you tried running the board with the originals and substituting the decrypted MSHVSF roms, to prove the issue is not at the board?
 
@Mitsurugi-w How would I go about getting the LCD replaced or exchanged? This order just arrived two days ago. Thanks for the quick response as always.

@YesAffinity I still have all the original roms sitting on my workbench but I'm not exactly sure what you mean by this. The board was suicided so it will not operate without the help of the darksoft. Any chance I can get a picture of what to put and where?
 
You can test the LCD if someone else nearby has a kit or send it to me for testing. We can figure out how to exchange it once it's confirmed bad.

He means to use the original roms and burn decrypted program roms to see if the pcb is working fine without the kit.
 
You can test the LCD if someone else nearby has a kit or send it to me for testing. We can figure out how to exchange it once it's confirmed bad.

He means to use the original roms and burn decrypted program roms to see if the pcb is working fine without the kit.
I will probably have to send it to you for testing, I don't think anyone around me has a kit unfortunately. I don't have a ROM burner either :\
 
well, for some reason the LCD started working. Not gonna ask questions, so, cool.

now to find another dead B board...
 
My guess is the ribbon cable may be flakey then.
 
@Mitsurugi-w - I moved all the kit components over to a new B board.

The graphics are fine now & everything is in working order, though the sound appears to be sped up/distorted as per what would happen without J17 jumped to Pin 7 of the PAL F. However, I have pin 7 wired up to j17. All the board jumpers are set correctly as well. What am I missing here?
 
Dont throw away the old b board yet. I had that issue of bad graphics after I installed my kit. It turned out if I pressed a specific spot the kit was making a good connection and the sprite issue was temporarily resolved. It was not the kit's defect, I had bent tips of two kit pins initially while slotting and that made the connection a bit hard. I since have bought 2 more cps2 ds kits just in case :P
 
Argh...my CPS2 multi was working fine but now no LCD display. Still works fine and all games working great. Tried switching with another known good cable but still no display on the LCD. Tried adjusting the Contrast dual on the board but still no text on the LCD. Help!
 

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I tried switching with a different LCD and cable...no change :(
 
Looked at the other side of the LCD connector and...Uh oh. :( Now I know what caused that burning smell. Must’ve happened when I tried to switch to a longer LCD cable. Damn...totally my fault. Can it be saved? Titles still burn & play fine, just no LCD display...
 

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Clean it up and add some bodge wires to replace the damaged traces. Hopefully it will resurrect.
 
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