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that1crzywhtguy

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So I've been building my first supergun, and I based it around the Retroelectronik Progamer. There are a lot of things I've liked so far with this unit, and I do have things up and running with an undamned usb decoder wired direct to the screw posts. That being said, I ran into a bizarre snag when trying to use the db15 controller ports. I purchased saturn controller adapters from RGB, and after chatting with him for a moment he pointed to the fact that the progamer doesn't use the same pinout. If that was my only issue, this wouldn't be too bad as I could just cut traces and rewire the controller ins on the supergun, and I'd have problem solved.

But here is where things get really weird. When I plug an adapter into port one, the supergun won't even turn on. The second I unplug the controller from port one, it turns on then. If I plug it back in, the supergun shuts off. Once, I even saw a spark leap from the metal shield on the adapter to the metal shield of the port. Luckily, the adapters don't seem to have been broken from this.


I started poking around with a multimeter and discovered that the second controller port doesn't seem to be grounded at all, odd. Then I discovered that somehow the first controller port's ground (including the metal shield) is shorted to the 5v rail!

Has anybody else had any or heard of any similar issues with this supergun? Is this a thing that could just occur from a manufacturing defect? I tried to write the seller but for some reason support requests error out on their website, and I tried ebay and have gotten no response.

I suppose worst comes to worst, I can just tap the pins on the bottom of the saturn adapter and wire them into the screw posts on the gun since it seems those work at least. This is a less than elegant solution, but I'm not sure how to remedy the weird controller port wiring.

Super weird!

Any thoughts/advice are greatly appreciated.
 
The Retroelectronik devices really aren't very good. Since you've already talked to RGB, get on his mailing list for the next batch of his HAS SuperGun - they are top-notch! You'll be much happier with a HAS in the long run, and you won't have to hack it all up just to get ground on a controller.
 
That's what I get for being a poor college student trying to game on a budget, huh?

;)

It was much cheaper, and easy to order, which is why I picked it up in the first place. I did also really like the screw terminals on this unit.

Since I've already invested some dough on this unit... I'd like to get it working. If I can actually get ahold of the seller, maybe they'll help with something... Replacement or refund, but I'm not holding my breath.
 
I read on another forum that the units they’re shipping now aren’t manufactured as well as the ones they had a few months ago. Definitely try for an exchange or refund-that 5V shorting to ground on controller 1 would make me nervous. Hopefully there aren’t other shorts going on.
 
Makes me nervous to. Frustrating that the support link doesn't work on the website, and that they haven't replied on ebay. Guess I just have to wait and hope.
 
Uh oh, this isn't a good sign:
https://imgur.com/a/XJVBf76

I really screwed up by not testing it as soon as I got it, since it's been 4 months since I purchased it I have no protection through eBay really. To just have a seller flat ignore messages and not have any route for support through the official website is a travesty. I understand that manufacturing errors can happen, but this one seems pretty egregious. How does 5v and ground even get swapped? This seems like a design screw up more than a mistake. At that, the 2nd controller port isn't even grounded on the outside. Luckily everything else has seemed to be sound, and luckily it didn't destroy any of my other gear.

Totally sucks, I guess I can kiss that $80 goodbye.

Let this be a warning to future perspective buyers. Either avoid or test immediately, and don't count on the seller to help.
 
Don't worry it's a blessing in disguise. Better to have it crap out now than fry your best pcb next month!

Now you can ditch that thing and buy a HAS from RGB. He doesn't screw up designs in the first place, and gives great support here and on other forums. He even released a preventative how-to to make sure his older hardware was within-spec back when voltage-gate was on everyone's minds.
 
I love my RGB HAS Supergun, but the advice to "just get a HAS from RGB" isn't really feasible.

a) His pre-orders are already filled...
b) Unfortunately he makes them in small quantities and batches are irregular.


Again, I love my RGB HAS, it's excellent. I recommend the RGB HAS too and next time he says he is opening orders I want to get one for my CPS3, but it's not a product you can just buy. I hope a more available product comes soon because "get a HAS" isn't really a solution for people at this time.
 
True, it was a long six month wait for me to get a HAS, but it was worth it in the end. The key thing is to let @RGB know you’re interested ASAP in case any units are left over on a production batch.

There are other good SuperGuns out there of course. The ones I’ve heard good things about are:

1) Windy Gaming (just be careful with the audio attenuation switch)
2) JNX
3) Jasen’s Customs
 
well shit. I'll have to check mine out. I bought mine back in February but haven't used it yet. I hope mine isn't shit.

Thanks for the updates
 
well shit. I'll have to check mine out. I bought mine back in February but haven't used it yet. I hope mine isn't shit.

Thanks for the updates
I hope so too! First thing to do would be to check those casings for shorts to 5v and buttons.
 
True, it was a long six month wait for me to get a HAS, but it was worth it in the end. The key thing is to let @RGB know you’re interested ASAP in case any units are left over on a production batch.

There are other good SuperGuns out there of course. The ones I’ve heard good things about are:

1) Windy Gaming (just be careful with the audio attenuation switch)
2) JNX
3) Jasen’s Customs
Windy Gaming says on the page:



WARNING: This item is not compatible with the GSCART switch as it

cannot handle JAMMA audio and using these two items together could
result in failure of the switch itself.

Unacceptable. Not using the standard DB15 port so I can use my UD-DB15 without paying more for a converter is dumb too, but not a dealbreaker like that.


JNX and Jasen are great but have the same problem as the HAS. Currently not available.
 
Which is why I'm making my own supergun!

I've had various superguns from various manufacturers, all with issues. Have no respect for retroelectroniks either, poorly designed and poorly manufactured.
 
I almost made my own too, but I don't have the experience or knowledge or skill to add features or any functionality beyond bare minimum (I'm an English teacher, not an EE), and I realized it's barely even cheaper. That's what attracted me to the Retroelectronik Progamer in the first place. That was clearly a mistake, as evidenced by my story and the imgur album. Now that I've modded it, it works great though, so I'll keep using it till I can get my hands on a HAS.
 
It's definitely a lot cheaper to produce your own.

I'm up to my third revision now. So far have:

- RGB Scart, s-video, composite video output

- Attenuated sync, trimpots for RGB

- Attenuated audio with mono/stereo switch

- Coin/test/service switches

- Onboard negative 5 volt generation

- Voltmeter for 5V and 12V

- Kick harness for CPS1 and CPS2

- Compatible with Neo-Geo controllers. Compatible with Undamned USB decoder. Snes to Neo adapter which aside from regular Snes opens up wireless controllers for 8bitdo, Wii, PS, Xbox etc.

Prototype is working great. Just tidying some things up before submitting the final PCB revision.
 
It's definitely a lot cheaper to produce your own.

I'm up to my third revision now. So far have:

- RGB Scart, s-video, composite video output

- Attenuated sync, trimpots for RGB

- Attenuated audio with mono/stereo switch

- Coin/test/service switches

- Onboard negative 5 volt generation

- Voltmeter for 5V and 12V

- Kick harness for CPS1 and CPS2

- Compatible with Neo-Geo controllers. Compatible with Undamned USB decoder. Snes to Neo adapter which aside from regular Snes opens up wireless controllers for 8bitdo, Wii, PS, Xbox etc.

Prototype is working great. Just tidying some things up before submitting the final PCB revision.
Isn’t a RGB amp mandatory in order to buffer the signals and adapt impedance? Well with mandatory I don’t mean it won’t work without it, but many posts about good Superguns mention that as something that differentiates pro ones from amateurish ones.
I’m not saying you didn’t implement that, just saying I don’t see (but I’m no expert) it in your post.

Regards.

Locutus73
 
I didn't see the need for an amp. The RGB signal from an arcade board is already higher than TV standards. I've used potentiometers to drop the signal down and the signal is buffered via the scart cable's built in components.
 
I didn't see the need for an amp. The RGB signal from an arcade board is already higher than TV standards. I've used potentiometers to drop the signal down and the signal is buffered via the scart cable's built in components.
I read, but again I’m not an expert, that the amp function would not be amping per se, but impedance correction and to put a buffer between jamma output and the display (or scaler) input. I also read that using just resistors (and/or caps) can eventually lead to damages to the arcade board and/or to the display. Using an amp is something you see in refined Superguns like JNX or RGB ones.
Again and again, I’m no expert at all, that’s what I read.

[edit]
The lack of amp in favour of just RGB pots is one of the criticism I read about Retroelectronik Supergun

[edit2]
I’m not criticizing you, I’m sharing something you might find useful

Regards.

Locutus73
 
Thanks for the information, I will need to research.

I can't see how any damage could be caused to either the monitor or arcade pcb via using resistors and capacitors.

Game consoles and plenty of other video outputting devices do it this way without issue.

I'm just trying to establish if the amp is strictly necessary or merely a means of adding a bullet point to a feature list, and an inflated cost for what is a $2 chip.

I like to keep things simple, the more components in the video path the more interference you introduce. The signal definitely doesn't need to be amplified, and is already buffered by passive compoments, so this is what I need to research.

P.s. No offence or criticism taken! Very happy that you shared this information! :)
 
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