Possible to Convert Raiden II to DX?

[twistedsymphony]

a few weeks ago I got my hands on a legit Raiden DX PCB so I decided to look a little deeper into this conversion since I could have both boards side by side.

looking at A18 on the program ROMs it runs to an 18cV8PC-25 chip directly above the ROMs. this is a PAL (data sheet here: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/81926/ETC/18CV8.html)

Seibu assigned this number "JJ5004" and this PAL does not exist on the original Raiden II PCB, so it seems that is how the extra address line is handled.

below the program ROMs are 2 other PALs that Seibu has labeled differently between the two boards as well...

Raiden 2 -> Raiden DX
JJ4B01 -> JJ5001
JJ4B02 -> JJ5002
nothing-> JJ5004

None of these appear to be dumped or reversed. I suppose depending on how the additional PALs are hooked up and if they ever get dumped or reversed you could potentially make a sub-PCB that plugs into the ROM sockets but on a whole this seems like more work than it's worth given the price difference between the two games.

 

[hardyhell]

Hy

thanks for looking into this.

too bad that ist not worth the efford.



ps: do you perhaps know if it is possible to easily ad the flip funtion to pcb that do not have it.

want to flip my namco Collection 2

 

[stt1]

I have a legit minty Raiden DX if you need specific pics lmk.

You'd hate the fact I picked it up for $50 back in the day.

During "the days" those were normal prices... I can't say that they were cheap though, times and income was very different back then. I bought my Raiden 2 and DX boards for similar price too. Many other boards were cheap too, and quite many deemed very rare and expensive today were common finds (tells something about how LOT of PCBs are just collected...).

Another of these had faulty sound (sharp distorting noise) - after a while of playing PCB heated a bit and the sounds went bad. With cold spray I was able to isolate the problem inside the epoxy "chip" and another end of it. As it was a day long before the repro for this epoxy thingie existed I had no other choices than buying another PCB or try to fix it myself. Decided to try the latter one - after hour of sanding/grinding and scraping I had components and small pcb cleared from the area which had the problem. With some testing I found the component and took a replacement from old CGA card - voila, sounds were good again. I still have it, playing fine, never applied the epoxy...