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But your Irritating Maze kit was 100% complete right?
Plug & Play with that extra Jamma passthrough thingy?
 
I had one I was selling for a friend TS, would have kept it if it would have been easy to put the trackball in a CP somehow. And even if, I don't fancy switching the CP around anyways, I only have 1 cab :( And yes Pascal, it was a complete kit.
 
it would have been easy to put the trackball in a CP somehow
I have a complete kit EXCEPT for the trackball, still looking at my options for that. but I even got the air compressor/flasher relay board from the upright version and figured out all the wiring. At some point I'd like to make a custom panel that includes the air-blast and strobe lights. :D
 
Back on topic;

Can confirm that pins 1 & 10 on CN20 are GND and I found 5v @ CN19 pin 1 & 2

Time to crimp a harness then :D
 
Got the schematics, will post them when I’m on my PC.

But our assumptions are correct, GND and X/Y from the CN20
And 5v comes direcyly from the Jamma connector in the original cab.

Didn’t have time to make a harness yet, but I’ll just hope the games boots without the hopper box etc...
 
here it is

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a bit of screenshots from MAME, looks like a funny mini-game
besides trackball this game require hopper (simulation) - when motor line active game expects sensor line will toggle.
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besides trackball this game require hopper (simulation) - when motor line active game expects sensor line will toggle.
I'm assuming it expects the sensor line to go low for x number of seconds? I wonder if that's something that could be simulated on hardware with a cheap 555 timer. or is this something that could be disabled in game options?
 
he, looks like the cart I sent off for dumping has already made it to MAME :D

I haven't looked any further in this since I sent the cart of, but I do have the original trackball.
If someone could figure out how to trick the game in thinking the hopper box is connected that would be much appreciated ;)

In the schematic I see there is a 'hopper check' line at Jamma connector 'a' (2p B2)
 
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The STV should have pull ups internally. so you shouldn't need to involve 5V. the button would pull it to ground or be disconnected.

the first question is if it's pushed when the hopper triggers or if it's normally "pushed" and lets go when the hopper triggers. I don't think you want to hold the button down 99% of the time while you play :P

the next question is if it only expects 1 pulse, or a number of pulses.

555 timers are super cheap, what you'd likely want is one setup in a "monostable" configuration.
that basically means it will receive a pulse (like the motor output signal) then it will switch it's for a set amount of time.

you can get pre-assembled modules like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NE555-Mono...=item285f3ecfd9:g:seAAAOSwi4daubnX:rk:15:pf:0

so basically you have +5V, Ground, input from the motor control, and output for the hopper button. There are still too many questions to answer before you buy one though ;)
 
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