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Lifted Trace Help

As soon as @Mitsurugi-w and @Darksoft decide what the best repair option is I'm sure they'll let you know, depending on how it's all wired up you may have to ship it to the US or potentially Europe.

If it's something I can fix (meaning something where the ARM chip doesn't have to be removed or other major stuff) then we'll get it done. You'll have to be patient.
 
No worries, hopefully its an easy fix, would suck to have a $500 kit be ruined.
 
That should be a relatively easy fix for someone locally. Doesnt make sense to ship to the other side of the planet to add a jumper wire.

Is there someone close to the @The Spaniard that could do the job? I will PM all the details for the fix as soon as we find someone to do the fix?

@The Spaniard As I suggested, try the aussie forum as well. I'm sure there is plenty of skilled people there that can do this fix.
 
Darksoft said:
That should be a relatively easy fix for someone locally. Doesnt make sense to ship to the other side of the planet to add a jumper wire.

Is there someone close to the @The Spaniard that could do the job? I will PM all the details for the fix as soon as we find someone to do the fix?

@The Spaniard As I suggested, try the aussie forum as well. I'm sure there is plenty of skilled people there that can do this fix.
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I'm happy to do it, I just need to know where to run the jumper from/to. If there's someone closer to @The Spaniard who can do it, that's cool too.

I can install the other wires for the connector while it's here.
 
I am happy to send it xodara @Darksoft

Is it a matter of running a jumper or does it look like the trace can be reset and have the nail poilish fix over it?
 
@xodaraP as you can see in the picture attached, that track goes around the corner pin to the pin besides. I think a jumper wire from that pin towards the 12 pin connector would be enough. Let me know if you need anything else, but as I can see it, it's just that, nothing else needed.
 

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So it doesn't go any further underneath than around a via and back to the second pin across? That's not too bad.

@The Spaniard I reckon I can get that sorted for you - I'll try to salvage the existing wire but failing that I'll just jumper between the through hole on the edge and the pin on the ARM. I can also install the other wires.

Thanks @Mitsurugi-w and @Darksoft for the info so we can get it fixed.
 
Thanks @Darksoft @Mitsurugi-w and @xodaraP

xodara, do you want me to ship it to you via the return address on the envelope you sent me?

Do you just need that board by itself only?

PM me if you need to discuss anything further.
 
The Spaniard said:
If I had known how delicate this area was I would have just sent it straight to xodara to do the mod.

I feel like a barely applied any heat on the pad when adding the solder.
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It takes 2 things to lift a pad; heat and pressure. Too much of one or both will lift it.

Glad to see the community support.

I've said several times, watch the PACE soldering videos on youtube. They will teach you about all the necessary basics; how the chemical process and flux works, correct tip size and heat, thermal mass of the work, etc. Having a true understanding of how soldering works is the key to quality worksmanship.
 
I like the videos from Dave who runs EEVBlog, but there's plenty of good soldering videos on there. The main things I have learned:

- Having a digitally temperature controlled iron where you can actually set a number is a huge plus. I had an iron with a trimpot and it was ok, but the numbers make a big difference.

- Having good quality solder with flux in it

- Using a flux pen on pads

- Using the right size solder - this makes a huge difference, especially when doing SMD work.

- Using the right shaped tip. The shovel shaped tip makes the least sense and it will seem stupid when in videos they tell you to use it for tiny pitch SMD work, it's not. It really is the best tip for the job.

Other than that, it's just practice. We've all made mistakes. It happens, you just do what you can to fix it and move on.
 
The Spaniard said:
Thanks @Darksoft @Mitsurugi-w and @xodaraP

xodara, do you want me to ship it to you via the return address on the envelope you sent me?

Do you just need that board by itself only?

PM me if you need to discuss anything further.
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Which region board is it? I may need your full A+B+multi setup. This would probably be the best way anyway as I can install the other wires and test it.

But at the very least I'll need your B+multi - I have blue and grey A boards, so green, blue or grey will be fine but if you used an orange, I'll also need your A.

And yes, the return address is good. I'll PM you.
 
xodaraP said:
I like the videos from Dave who runs EEVBlog, but there's plenty of good soldering videos on there. The main things I have learned:

- Having a digitally temperature controlled iron where you can actually set a number is a huge plus. I had an iron with a trimpot and it was ok, but the numbers make a big difference.

- Having good quality solder with flux in it

- Using a flux pen on pads

- Using the right size solder - this makes a huge difference, especially when doing SMD work.

- Using the right shaped tip. The shovel shaped tip makes the least sense and it will seem stupid when in videos they tell you to use it for tiny pitch SMD work, it's not. It really is the best tip for the job.

Other than that, it's just practice. We've all made mistakes. It happens, you just do what you can to fix it and move on.
Click to expand...
All good points. I would argue the single most important is cleaning the tip with a wet sponge. Shocking off the oxides is just as important as flux for getting heat into the work.
 
Indeed. I just considered that one a given as it's generally the first thing you learn when soldering :)

The wire type cleaners work well too, some people say better but I've always been good with the sponge.

Then again I've seen cases where people don't do it too. So definitely worth mentioning.

I've sent @The Spaniard a pm so I'll post up pictures of the fix.
 
Well from what I have learned, clean the tip with that wire type sponge for normal use and only use the wet sponge when really needed.

Apparantly the wet sponge could cause damage to the tip (micro fractures in its surface).
No idea what this is based on though, that’s just what I’ve learnt ;)
 
I prefer wire cleaners. I find a wet sponge tarnishes the tip.
 
Wire is ideal for removing excess solder from your tip while working on clean/new work. Sponge is mandatory though for rework, or anything where you're burning off a lot of flux/dust/oxides. I've never had it damage a tip coating but I do watch my temp. Your tip should come off the wet sponge very clean. If it looks tarnished you may have already scraped off the finish with wire cleaners.
 
If the solder on your tip burns and becomes black in no time it means that you have a bad soldering iron with a way to hot temperature. The material of the iron tip is also very important. On a good iron tip, you can wipe it clean with a wet paper or on a wet soldering sponge without a problem. Next, you can add some fresh solder that should flow open right away. If you have to touch it several times before the solder starts to melt, it's garbage and shouldn't be used for electronic repairs.
 
Just stumbled over this thread and seeing the pics made my eyes tear up. I dont want to dis anybody but you really need to get the right tools for the job.

You cant work on a gold necklace with a jackhammer. And thats pretty much what did happen here.

A decent soldering station starts at like 70 bucks. And even the crappiest china clone is miles better than what you used there.
Flux core leaded solder costs like 4 bucks for 100g.
Flux pen costs like 2 bucks.
Metal sponge costs like 3 bucks.
AWG 28 or so costs like 2 bucks for 10m.

Some basic soldering videos on youtube costs nothing but a bit of time.

Get this and you are set and such accidents really cant happen again.
 
Even if you use the right tools it's easy to stuff this up, the pads are small and SMD temperature needs to be lower.

He's not the only one to make this mistake. I'd rather we not bash people for trying but rather explain and give tips on how to fix mistakes so people can get back to gaming.

I fixed this yesterday, just need to test it but it's not the worst thing in the world.
 
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