MK2 cab turned into UMK3. Some things don't add up...

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    • MK2 cab turned into UMK3. Some things don't add up...

      So, I bought an Ultimate MK3 cab today. Find out that it was a MK2 cab.

      The coin door buttons (test/volume/service mode) aren't working, coin slots aren't lighting up, marquee isn't lighting up.

      There's a slight color issue where the blood is hitting the ground and it's a purplish color, but doesn't seem to affect anything else. How can I degauss the monitor?
      Apparently this is a Juggernaut 1.0 "upgrade". Had to switch a dip just to get to the power on test and shows that a group of roms are bad. The game plays just fine though.



    • I've got an MK2 converted to UMK3 as well. I swear there are more of those out there than dedicated MK3s.

      the service panel buttons have their own header on the PCB, from your picture it looks like it's plugged in check to make sure the disconnects underneath the buttons haven't gone lose, if ALL of them aren't working then chances are the ground wire is bad. these can sometimes get pinched in the door so after a visual inspection I'd start with testing continuity on the ground wire. it could even be bad on the wire at the connector as those IDC connectors are trash and tend to be flaky.

      Chances are your coin door bulbs are dead as is the ballast in the marquee lamp... I'm pretty sure ever machine I've ever bought has had all or nearly all dead lamps, it's not uncommon.

      as for the monitor, I can't tell from your picture but these usually have a WG K7000 which looks phenomenal after a recap. in any case there's no degauss button so you'll have to do it by hand with a degauss tool.

      I agree with kevindg86 on the Juggernaut roms causing them to show bad in test.

      really all of your issues are likely unrelated and nothing serious going on here.
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    • Thanks for the replies. I'll look into the solutions suggested. Much appreciated.

      Just for the sake of it, I have a MK2 board, that I had connected to a Sony PVM via supergun scart to component/bnc, looks awesome on it. I might wanna put it in this cab, maybe run them side by side. Not sure yet, but most likely I do lol.

    • I'll get back in it in the morning and see which monitor it is. I had to stop for the night because I'm pretty much retarded. So, mentioning the stupid marquee not lighting up. Didn't think to do the most basic thing there is to do. CHECK TO SEE IF IT EVEN HAS A LIGHT IN IT! smh Seriously, this is very depressing that I didn't even do that to begin with.

      Pretty new to this, but dang...
    • Mitsurugi-w wrote:

      kevindg86 wrote:

      Oh if it is a Polo, just take it to the roof of you house/apartment and throw it off it, on to the street. Honestly the best use for one of those...
      Aw come on. They have a nice picture when they are working.
      I have one, when I got it the top 3 inches were stretched out and the bottom three were squashed, recapped. Then the width coil stopped working and it had the width of a 19" monitor, it was a 25 inch, in the process of fixing that I got a pin cushion issue. It is working now but the picture isn't the same as it used to. Polos and u2000/5000 are some of my least favorite monitors.
    • the power for the lamp is completely isolated from the rest of the machine.

      basically when the AC cord comes in from the back it passes through the switch and the fuse and then splits 3 ways, one for the monitor, one for the power supply (which runs just the game PCB and the coin door lamps) and one for the marquee lamp.

      You'll want to check the voltages on your game PCB and adjust or replace your PSU depending on what you get.
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    • So, the range when checked with the multimeter, ugh. It was fluctuating so badly. Not to mention there's rust on the points and connectors. There are wires not connected, wires cut.. I dunno.
      I need to clean this thing out and see what it needs to run proper in every aspect as if it were "new".



      Edit:
      Just to add, the main power cord, the ground was removed. Why would that be done? Can I change out that original power supply?
      I'm really wanting to learn more, so any help and suggestions is greatly appreciated.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by F34R ().

    • F34R wrote:

      So, the range when checked with the multimeter, ugh. It was fluctuating so badly.
      replace the power supply. that's a clear indicator that it's bad and likely why your game is resetting.

      If this were a hard to find or unique power supply I'd recommend attempting a repair, but the one you've got there is as generic as they come... cheap too.
      amazon.com/Switching-Cabinets-…ht-Cocktail/dp/B00F1YQDBA

      Also note that there are different connectors for +5V and -5V.. don't get them backwards!

      F34R wrote:

      the main power cord, the ground was removed. Why would that be done?
      Just about every machine I've bought has had this done. If you're trying to plug it into a really old building the wall outlets might not have ground pin, or they may have been trying to use a cheap extension cord without a ground pin, or maybe the plug end got stepped on and it broke off...

      in any cause the machine should run fine without out, though I typically find that having a good ground available can sometimes help reduce noise in the CRT picture as well as the audio. This would NOT be causing your Power Supply issues.

      If you want to replace it you have 2 options.
      1. go to your local hardware store and buy a new plug end. you can cut the old one off and wire the new plug in. This is a really cheap option (<$5) and you can do it with a wire cutter/stripper and a screwdriver.

      Something like this is perfect: homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp…k-R50-3W101-00E/205165472

      2. buy a whole new power cord and replace it at the cab end. This may require you buy some pins and a crimper though, This is also the most expensive option (~$20), more than that if you need to buy a crimper, and the pins and crimper would likely have to be ordered online so you'll be waiting for those parts. So if you don't have the right tools stick to just replacing the plug end. This usually isn't needed unless the cord itself is chewed up anyway.
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      The post was edited 2 times, last by twistedsymphony ().

    • from your pictures it looks pretty normal. A lot of Midway cabs have extra AC power connectors (3 pins with the purple and green wires), and there is likely a few unused connectors for the optional bill accecptor in the coin door.

      it does look like you're missing the coin mechs though, this is pretty common as a lot of arcade operators keep them when selling machines. Not necessary unless you really want to drop tokens or quarters in when you play.
      Buy My 3D Printed Parts: bit-district.com
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      My Cabs: VOOT | RFM | Vewlix F| FiF Jr. | KI2 | UMK3 | E29 | E29| Net City | DDR