MK2 cab turned into UMK3. Some things don't add up...

    This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our Cookie Policy.

    • F34R wrote:

      Any idea on how to get the coin door buttons to work? Service mode, vol up/down, and test?

      twistedsymphony wrote:

      the service panel buttons have their own header on the PCB, from your picture it looks like it's plugged in check to make sure the disconnects underneath the buttons haven't gone lose, if ALL of them aren't working then chances are the ground wire is bad. these can sometimes get pinched in the door so after a visual inspection I'd start with testing continuity on the ground wire. it could even be bad on the wire at the connector as those IDC connectors are trash and tend to be flaky.

      so in short:
      visually inspect the coin door harness for damage or loose wires on the buttons as well as the connector on the game board

      use a multimeter to test connectivity between the connector on the game board and the buttons, starting with the ground wire.
      "Information wants to be free"
      VOOT | RFM | Kraylix V3 | FiF Jr. | KI2 | UMK3 | E29 | E29| TOTD | DDR
      Follow my projects on Instagram: instagram.com/twistedchu

      Buy my 3D Printed Parts: bit-district.com
    • Mitsurugi-w wrote:

      kevindg86 wrote:

      Oh if it is a Polo, just take it to the roof of you house/apartment and throw it off it, on to the street. Honestly the best use for one of those...
      Aw come on. They have a nice picture when they are working.
      I fully agree. In my HS5 cab that my multi's are in, I switched out a K7000 and replaced it with a 25" Polo. The K7000 had constant blooming that was excessive, even for Capcom games. It also would have faint jailbars that appeared with certain colors after the game had been on for a while, and the image size was difficult/impossible to adjust. I did not like that at all.

      When I got my MK2 cabinet, the Polo in there was phenomenal looking after a cap kit, and the remote adjustment board let me dial everything in without having put my hands in impolite areas. The pincushion board on it also helped me adjust the geometry a lot better than I could on my K7000. The ONLY issue is that the vertical linearity is just slightly off, but that's at the very, very, very bottom of the screen and the only time I can even see it is when text scrolls like at the start of Hyper Street Fighter 2.

      I find that my CPS1, CPS2, and CPS3 boards all are very slightly different in image dimensions, so when I switch them around I need to make very slight adjustments to fill the screen. With a K7000 that's damned near impossible to easily do from the front of the cabinet. With a Polo, it's simple as pie.