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    • Ok, here ist the whole story... :)

      (I hope you can follow my explanations because I'm not a native English speaker.)

      When I purchased the MVS it was already consolized. It looked like this:

      The functionality was 100% and the 'design' was ok. But the wiring was more or less a mess. Therefore, I decided to revise the console.

      Originally, all the wires where soldered straight to the JAMMA pins. So my 1st goal to achieve was to completely seperate the enclosure from the board to gain easy access to the PCB (just in case of possible repair works).

      For that reason I installed a JAMMA connector, but now the sheet metal (the one with the NEO GEO Sticker on it) was to close to the PCB. Therefore, the sheet metal had to be replaced, too.

      A new one was designed by using Adobe Illustrator:

      Afterwards, the file was exported to AutoCAD by using the dxf export option (note: for future projects I recommend to realize the design straight from the beginning with AutoCAD because there are some compatibility issuses between Ai dxf an the 'real' dxf).

      The new steel sheet was cutted (waterjet) and bended by a local metal construction company. I decided to go for 1.5mm thickness, because the original sheet metal (made of the housing of an old VHS recorder) was too flimsy (approx. 1mm thickness) and bended when a controller was pluged in.

      Picture of the bare steel sheet:

      When it comes to painting, I'm relatively untalented. :) Therefore, I decided to ship the steel sheet to a member of the german circuit board forum and let him do the paint job.

      WIP picture (no decals - only paint & duct tape):

      The plastic part was painted by myself (spray can, matted black).

      The painted steel sheet and the plastic part were agglutinated by a strong but flexible black assembly adhesive (to prevent that light beams from the red backlight potentially passing through the slit between the steel sheet and the plastic).

      If you own a MV-1FZ(S), you will recognize that there isn't much space between the PCB and the steel sheet when everything is put together. That's why I needed a very thin backlight solution for the Neo Geo logo.

      First, I tried using an EL-foil with an inverter, but the results were not satisfying (the light output was too weak, the light was more blue than white, the inverter had the typical high-frequency humming noise). But luck was on my side and another member of the circuit board commuinty (he runs an online shop for LED backlights) sold me a prototype of a very thin and cuttable backlight (1.5mm thickness) that only needs 5V DC for operation (yeah, no additional inverter etc. was needed anymore!).

      To protect the backlight from possible damage, I placed a 2mm thick milk white plexiglass between the backlight and the steel sheet.

      BTW: The backlight possesses very uniform illumination, can be equipped with different LED colors and might also fit for mini marquees. ;)

      The red backlight is made of common cuttable LED stripes offered on ebay etc. They need 12V DC and therfore I decided against a 5V only mod for the console. But I replaced the table power pack (5V DC 2A / 12V DC 2A) by a better one from wattac with more amps (5V DC 4.2A / 12V DC 3A). Just in case...

      That's also why I installed a LED voltage display with a hidden On/On switch to toggle between the 12V and the 5V (yes, I know, actually it's useless on a CMVS but it's still a nice gadget ^^ ).

      The 3 upper holes of the plastic enclosure (triangle etc.) are covered by red plexiglass (diffuse, 5mm thickness).

      For the 2 holes on the side I had to 'get creative' (the space between the plastic and the electronic parts on the PCB is approx. 1mm). I took a translucent box of Mon Chérie (chocolate candy), trimmed the 2 parts to fit and sanded them to get the diffuse look.

      So far for the optical part. Now some tech specs:

      Upgraded from UniBIOS 3.1 to 4.0 (self-explanatory).

      The red momentary push button is for entering the test mode.

      The MV-1FZ(S) doesn't output stereo sound. I decided to install a stereo mod (the MKL one) but I found no suitable small PCB designs on the net. Therefore, I decided to design my own PCB with SMD parts instead of THT (PCB files are public - or

      The CMVS outputs RGB via SCART connector with impedance matching RGB & Sync by using the following PCB (files are public - or

      The picture looks great! :)

      I modded my controllers, too. :) I use 2 identical Neo Geo sticks (the 'classic ones') with SANWA sticks and buttons. The buttons are equipped with LEDs (only visible when the buttons are pressed):

      That's all folks! :D

      The post was edited 6 times, last by SVM ().

    • Sp33dFr34k wrote:

      opt2not wrote:

      The MV-1FZ(S) doesn't output stereo sound.
      Huh? Of course it does, that’s what the “S” signifies. My 1FZS outputs stereo, you just have to have hit the small switch on the pcb togo between mono and stereo.Are you sure you have the S version, or perhaps it’s the regular 1FZ?
      Don't you have a 1FS rather than a 1FZS? :)
      Ah shoot, you're right. Nevermind me! Carry on, all. :D
    • Max_Power wrote:

      I purchased this "MV-1FZ" board and I would like to know if I can purchase a kick ass looking cover like that.
      Maybe @SVM can say who did the original consolization but he certainly made the end result himself. Not a thing that's probably for sale

      But lions3 has this acrylic top, probably the nicest "cover" I've seen that is actually for sale.
      have multi: cps* ttx2 st-v gnet f3 mvs sega sys24/c2 sys2x6 naomi(netboot) m72
      want multi: pgm sys16/18/32 m92 atomiswave seattle supernova jms32 naomi(cart) namco na-1/2 namco sys10/11/12
      cabs: blast city x2, vewlix c
      klov/vaps games list | custom fight sticks
      current project(s): waiting on such parts many wow. organizing console stuff.