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Might be a little too early to ask but what will the cost be on one?
It's hard to say at the moment. The cost per unit without labour is already very high. It should be similar pricing to videogameperfection but I'm also using a few higher quality parts like nickel plated brass standoffs and some sort of machined feet.
 
It's hard to say at the moment. The cost per unit without labour is already very high. It should be similar pricing to videogameperfection but I'm also using a few higher quality parts like nickel plated brass standoffs and some sort of machined feet.
No problem, I already have one from video game perfection, would have been handy months ago but I will keep a lookout on yours too.
 
Is there a better option between the Sentinel and an LCD monitor than the OSSC? I don't mind spending more if it's better. I'm playing many different types of arcade PCBs so compatibility is a concern.
There is no better option than the OSSC. It'll look awesome when paired with the RGB out from the Sentinel :)
Compatibility is my main concern here. Somebody was saying the OSSC is pretty picky and I know arcade PCBs get pretty weird.
 
Is there a better option between the Sentinel and an LCD monitor than the OSSC? I don't mind spending more if it's better. I'm playing many different types of arcade PCBs so compatibility is a concern.
There is no better option than the OSSC. It'll look awesome when paired with the RGB out from the Sentinel :)
Compatibility is my main concern here. Somebody was saying the OSSC is pretty picky and I know arcade PCBs get pretty weird.
OSSC is not picky, it's TVs/monitors that are picky and don't like weird refresh rates.
 
S-video from the supergun looks great on a CRT display, it's not that far behind RGB output honestly. Composite is acceptable but really a last resort in my opinion.
I can agree here, the S-Video out of the Sentinel is almost as good as the RGB out. I was floored seeing it for the first time.
I'm looking forward to taking advantage of this, some of my setups will be running on CRT TVs that only have svideo. :D
 
Is there a better option between the Sentinel and an LCD monitor than the OSSC? I don't mind spending more if it's better. I'm playing many different types of arcade PCBs so compatibility is a concern.
There is no better option than the OSSC. It'll look awesome when paired with the RGB out from the Sentinel :)
Compatibility is my main concern here. Somebody was saying the OSSC is pretty picky and I know arcade PCBs get pretty weird.
OSSC is not picky, it's TVs/monitors that are picky and don't like weird refresh rates.
The result is the same. I get that the OSSC's hands-off approach in this regard means ~0 lag but that doesn't do much good if you can't get a display.
 
Boards are in fabrication as we speak. They should be finished within the next few days, shipped, and arrive to me in approx 3 weeks from now.

I went through everything with a fine tooth comb quite thoroughly so am hoping it all runs smoothly.

Quite happy with the layout, managed to space the controller connectors apart to accommodate 2 x Undamned encoders side by side, have header breakouts for power, video and audio for future expansion if required and optimised all traces for shortest length, appropriate width and distance from other traces to prevent interference within signals.

This order is just a small batch to comfirm everything is in order. If it's all working as expected I will go ahead with a larger bulk order and sacrifice sleep to assemble as many as I can before offering them for sale. They take a while to assemble so thereafter they'll only be available in small batches every month or so. Maybe along the lines of 10 per month.
 
Boards are in fabrication as we speak. They should be finished within the next few days, shipped, and arrive to me in approx 3 weeks from now.

I went through everything with a fine tooth comb quite thoroughly so am hoping it all runs smoothly.

Quite happy with the layout, managed to space the controller connectors apart to accommodate 2 x Undamned encoders side by side, have header breakouts for power, video and audio for future expansion if required and optimised all traces for shortest length, appropriate width and distance from other traces to prevent interference within signals.

This order is just a small batch to comfirm everything is in order. If it's all working as expected I will go ahead with a larger bulk order and sacrifice sleep to assemble as many as I can before offering them for sale. They take a while to assemble so thereafter they'll only be available in small batches every month or so. Maybe along the lines of 10 per month.
@Frank_fjs Would you do something like offer some as kit for a little cheaper that people would have to build themselves. I would be open for something like that. It would make it easier for you also as you would not have to build as many. Would just need to make instructions on were all the parts go.
 
3 x SMD ICs, 1 x oscillator, and lots of SMD capacitors and resistors. 1206 sized.
Ok i just went back and looked at some of the last pics you posted of the supergun and those SMD IC's dont look like they would be a pain to do.
 
Yeah it's nothing overly difficult, just time consuming.
 
3 x SMD ICs, 1 x oscillator, and lots of SMD capacitors and resistors. 1206 sized.
Not that I have any interest in doing a kit myself but how would these be put on the board at home?

Would you add some solder then place the part on that and heat it with a heat gun?
 
Preferably you'd use solder paste rather than solder wire because you'll get a more even finish but other than that, yep
 
Personally I use solder paste and a hot air gun. It takes me longer but provides a better finish.

You can also use a soldering iron. I tin the pads first, place the component down with tweezers, heat one pad while pressing down with tweezers then repeat for the other side.

I prep everything with a flux pin first however with the gold enig finish it's probably not strictly necessary, it solders extremely well. Not so good for rework though, could easily lift a pad with too much heat. The ICs I'd recommend always using flux, with the other SMD components it's not so necessary.

Good lighting and magnification is super helpful too. The attached picture is my first attempt, not the worst effort however not exactly the best either. After a while you develop a knack for it and work out what works and what doesn't.
35922970_10214985825612137_9004233240520687616_o.jpg
 
I vastly prefer SMD when assembling. I also use solder paste and hot air though I did build a reflow oven that can do the job. When Apocalypse sends the multi gerbers to me I ask him to change all resistors and caps to SMD. I can assemble ten pcbs in the time it takes to assemble one with only through-hole.
 
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