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add the trimpot it solves the issue we are arcade people we are use to complicated
 
Yep I'm working on squeezing the trimpot in now.

From my testing most boards work fine at a particular setting. It's just Capcom CPS1/2 games that need the adjustment. They're also the only boards that don't play nicely with a PAL oscillator which is why I opted for NTSC. Naturally I don't have a large sample range as I only own a few dozen arcade PCBs but with the trimpot most if not all games should be able to be dialled in.
 
Wouldn’t it be easier to add a switch with 2 presets?
1 for CPS1/2, 1 for all other?

+ personally I wouldn’t care for composite, as most would use RGB anyway, or s-video, so don’t make it too hard for yourself ;)
 
I'd rather a trimpot to cover all bases. Could be games I haven't tested yet that need a specific setting.
 
I test wired in a trimpot to adjust the oscillator frequency with great results. I am now able to tweak the video perfectly regardless of game. With the trimpot adjustment the image is great.

Have managed to squeeze in a vertical pot on the video hat too so I'm considering this problem solved.

Can move on to ordering PCBs now and will start fabricating the wiring harnesses while I wait.
 

Another composite video test. This time MVS with the oscillator trimpot dialled in accordingly. The banding / other visual artefacts are the result of using a mobile phone camera to capture CRT footage, in the flesh the image is crisp and artefact free.

Looks really good, I'm very happy with it. I'd gladly use composite if I didn't have RGB monitors.
 
Thanks guys. I'm happy with it now. You should see s-video, it looks awesome.

I always utilise RGB but it's nice to have other options.

I wonder if I should sell the video boards separately? Would be great for MVS consolisation. I would redesign the PCB so it's better suited to being utilised as a general add-on board, strip out the audio and just leave RGBS input and composite/chroma/luma output. Incorporate some small trimpots to adjust RGB levels and maybe incorporate a sync cleaner and booster as the video IC requires TTL sync.
 
If u make the video boards separate, I'll be interested for using them on mvs and my diy supergun.
 
I might be interested in one of these too. Deluxe pack even!

I did want to ask if there wasn't a better location to place the DB15 connectors instead? Like at together side by side on the long edge?
 
I did want to ask if there wasn't a better location to place the DB15 connectors instead? Like at together side by side on the long edge?
That's a good point and something I've considered. Perhaps a version 2 candidate which I'll elaborate on further down. For now things are laid out according to PCB design considerations. Power is situated close to the source, video and audio lines are well separated and insulted via a large ground plane and so on. Also size of the PCB has been kept minimal to keep costs down. Sometimes there's a trade off between what's best physically and what's best electronically, if that makes sense.

I'm actually toying around with another design concept in the background. I'm developing it so that everything barring controller inputs is on the main PCB. By everything, I mean all power, audio and video outputs (including RGB, s-video and composite). The controller inputs will be a completely separate PCB that docks on top. This will allow for let's say Neo-Geo and Mega Drive controller inputs on the one board. I can add rapid-fire and kick harness support. I can develop different controller boards for say Snes or Saturn or perhaps 4 player output and the end user can simply swap boards out pending on which controller scheme they would like to utilise.
 
Here's where it all begun, if anyone is interested. These are pictures of the very first prototypes I made. The one where I'm holding it in my hand is the very first one I ever produced and assembled. It's very crude and simple and obviously things have come a long way since, but it works and is extremely compact at 112mm x 50mm and it all had to start somewhere.
 

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That's a good point and something I've considered. Perhaps a version 2 candidate which I'll elaborate on further down. For now things are laid out according to PCB design considerations. Power is situated close to the source, video and audio lines are well separated and insulted via a large ground plane and so on. Also size of the PCB has been kept minimal to keep costs down. Sometimes there's a trade off between what's best physically and what's best electronically, if that makes sense.
I'm actually toying around with another design concept in the background. I'm developing it so that everything barring controller inputs is on the main PCB. By everything, I mean all power, audio and video outputs (including RGB, s-video and composite). The controller inputs will be a completely separate PCB that docks on top. This will allow for let's say Neo-Geo and Mega Drive controller inputs on the one board. I can add rapid-fire and kick harness support. I can develop different controller boards for say Snes or Saturn or perhaps 4 player output and the end user can simply swap boards out pending on which controller scheme they would like to utilise.
No worries, I would be down for a second revision if this can be done. For fighters and stuff, connecting USB cables from the side may be a bit difficult. I would say that things like power, sound,. video ect are placed to the sides as they are not constantly plugged in and out and are out of the way. I am also not sure on the 3 buttons' placement but cant offer any suggestions off the top of my head right now.

Does this use a power supply like HAS? Or are there more portable solutions that can be sorted. Ideally I am looking for something that can be encased and portable for fighting game meetups and tournaments.

This is great though and thanks for making such stuff for the arcade community and out of Radilade too!
 
Regarding power, you can use an ATX Pico PSU. They're tiny, maybe about 5cm long, incredible stuff.
 
So something like a laptop power brick from the wall to the pico?

I guess closer to your release times you could offer PSU or endorse some that are good.
 
Yeah. So I use a Pico in conjunction with an old external hard drive PSU. It's 12V 2A. This outputs 5V 5A from the Pico which has been enough to run all my boards. You can get more powerful Pico PSUs if needed.

Other than that, any 20 or 24 pin PC ATX PSU is suitable. They're not expensive and provide all the required voltages and are generally very stable and feature overload and short circuit protection.

Alternatively one can use an arcade PSU.
 
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