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okay so i decided to be super reckless and i flipped the switch on my atx psu from 115 to 235.. low and behold my taito G net and my system16 MAGICALLY began to work.. it's safe to say this supergun is top tier
 
240v puts out more amps - but if you're running 240VAC off a 110VDC socket, that's not going to end well.

System 16B is a power hog so I'm not surprised that didn't work, I don't have a G-Net board so I don't know but assume it's the same
 
Update!!! the Pico PSU-80 20 Pin Mini-ITX with Edac 11203A Power Supply Switching Adapter i purchased from ebay works FLAWLESSLY with all of my arcade boards and multi game kits!!!
Hey @beast1x5 can you provide the ebay link to the pPico PSU-80 20 Pin Mini-ITX with Edac 11203A Power Supply Switching Adapter that you purchased please. I might purchase one myself.
 
Just copy that text into the eBay search bar.. you'll see one with a yellow 20 pin connector on it.. that's the one you want
 
You might be able to get the same thing cheaper through Ali, but when I most recently looked for one of these (and still want one) it was about $60
 
Have you got a link on the one you looked at on Ali?

I might be able to check it out on the Chinese only ali as they are usually cheaper there.
 
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There's a 250W version on eBay and a 200W on Aliexpress too. Just add a high-amp 12V power supply with the standard 5.5mm x 2.5mm barrel to build your own combo. I wouldn't trust or recommend these at all with expensive PCBs, and the lack of a voltage dial is a total deal breaker, but that said, these are definitely a cool option that I'll be keeping an eye on.
 
I had my doubts too but they were cheap enough for me to give them a try.

I'm sure there will be arcade boards out there they don't work with, due to a lack of power output, but the one I linked to above (the one I have) has worked flawlessly with all my boards. It has overload and short circuit protection so I've had no fear using it with my games. Something goes wrong and it shuts down, something many of the cheaper arcade PSUs don't have. Lack of a 5V dial doesn't bother me as they have a regulated output. The ICs on arcade boards are rated to a certain tolerance anyhow. Voltage drops by the time it reaches the PCB so the notion of measuring exactly 5V from the power source is often inadequate.
 
Keep in mind there are 20 and 24 pin versions. I prefer 20 pin but a 24 pin will also fit and work in the current design supergun.

I'm not sure a 24 pin will fit on the newer design though due to relocation of connectors. The ATX connector is on the left hand side now, with 2 x controller ports on the front edge and kick harness, video/audio, RGB trimmers on the right. Composite video is available from the main supergun pcb with the options of a 3/4 player controller hat and s-video/3.5mm audio jack hats.
 
I had my doubts too but they were cheap enough for me to give them a try.

I'm sure there will be arcade boards out there they don't work with, due to a lack of power output, but the one I linked to above (the one I have) has worked flawlessly with all my boards. It has overload and short circuit protection so I've had no fear using it with my games. Something goes wrong and it shuts down, something many of the cheaper arcade PSUs don't have. Lack of a 5V dial doesn't bother me as they have a regulated output. The ICs on arcade boards are rated to a certain tolerance anyhow. Voltage drops by the time it reaches the PCB so the notion of measuring exactly 5V from the power source is often inadequate.
That's pretty freaking cool. I have one in my Frankendreamcast and am happy to hear that they're up to the task.
 
I was going to leave this as a surprise but what the heck, here's the new layout. PCBs are being produced as I type and will be shipped to me within a few weeks.

These are significantly more expensive to produce. They are a 4 layer PCB with a heavier copper pour, gold immersion and matte finish. This will be the deluxe version and is as good as it gets, if you have the money and want the absolute finest quality, this is it.

Sync options have been expanded. You can utilise raw untouched sync straight from the game board, raw sync passed through a sync cleaner, attenuated or line level output. Additionally you may also utilise sync that has been regenerated from RGB, attenuated or line level output, cleaned or left intact as composite video. This provides the option of having access to composite video straight from the main supergun PCB as an alternative to RGB.

RGB is regenerated, attenuated and buffered and output at the correct voltage and impedance.

Audio is safe and attenuated while still working with Cave boards. Mono and stereo options available for games that support stereo audio from the jamma edge. No chance of damage to arcade PCBs, speakers or any interconnecting devices.

Angled power, service/test switches, kick harness connector.

Upright RGB trimpots simutaneously adjusted by a single knob.

Dipswitch to enable or disable button inputs 4,5,6 from each player from the jamma edge.

Onboard voltmeter, 5V/12V selectable and onboard negative 5V generation.

+5V, +12V and -5V power LEDs.

Optional hat to provide player 3 and player 4 inputs.

Optional hat to provide s-video output and audio output via a 3.5mm audio connector.

The red shaded areas in the second picture depict the optional hats that dock to the top of the main supergun PCB.

top_silk.png
 

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