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I suspect either the power supply or the MAK Strike supergun.
That sucks to hear.

I am wondering, if I want to add a SLG to the sentinel what is the best way to go about it and what cables and devices do I need to get scanlines via HDMI?
 
You need a OSSC, a scanline generator, a Mega Drive 2 SCART cable to connect to the OSSC, a HDMI cable to connect into the SLG and then another HDMI cable to your display
 
Oh I didn't realise OSSC had an SLG in it already. In that case the OSSC would be the easiest way to go about it.

Assuming you don't want the OSSC, the RetroTINK is the other best option and if you were to use that

Sentinel with S-Video hat -> S-Video/RCA audio cables -> RetroTINK -> miniHDMI to HDMI cable -> TV
 
Didn't realise you didn't know :P

Retrotink 2x does not have a SLG... He missed the boat in adding that I think.

Come to think of it why would he not add an SLG? It's for retro consoles so would have been a good inclusion.

I think would look something like this:

Sentinel with S-Video hat -> S-Video/RCA audio cables -> RetroTINK -> miniHDMI cable to -> SLG -> HDMI cable -> TV

All that is left to know is what that HDMI SLG is like. Seen it on ebay too and another type/version of it.

https://www.arcadewinkel.nl/en/hdmi-slg-scanline-generator-en

Not cheap though.
 
I'll let you work out what works but can tell you the Sentinel has the following video output options:

HDMI via OSSC or the cheaper Chinese encoders

RGB scart

Component video via RetroVision cable or encoder such as CSY-2100

VGA and 3.5mm audio (via add-on hat)

S-video and 3.5mm audio (via add-on hat)

Composite and RCA audio (via add-on hat)

I think between all those options you'll be able to work something out.
 
I thought the RetroTINK had an SLG, especially given the price and its application with the RPi. That's surprising.
 
Maybe deemed not necessary as on the Rpi you can enable scanlines via a shader or simple overlay.

I've got an inline scart scanline generator but it doesn't look very good, lines are too thick and spaced too far apart. Also have a VGA scanline generator which looks a lot better but still doesn't feel / look quite right.

Don't have an expensive scaler so not sure how they perform.

Best way to achieve scanlines is via CRT!
 
OSSC
 

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Stop teasing and build one for me!

Does it look good in motion? I've noticed with other psuedo scanline options they look great in a still image yet look not quite right when viewed in motion.
 
I will!

Looks absolutely incredible, especially on an OLED. Almost makes me forget that I'm not playing on a CRT.
 
I thought the RetroTINK had an SLG, especially given the price and its application with the RPi. That's surprising.
It is a disappointment for sure.
Maybe deemed not necessary as on the Rpi you can enable scanlines via a shader or simple overlay.

I've got an inline scart scanline generator but it doesn't look very good, lines are too thick and spaced too far apart. Also have a VGA scanline generator which looks a lot better but still doesn't feel / look quite right.

Don't have an expensive scaler so not sure how they perform.

Best way to achieve scanlines is via CRT!
CRTs aren't always the most portable and tend to be the enemies of backs :D
 
Maybe deemed not necessary as on the Rpi you can enable scanlines via a shader or simple overlay.

I've got an inline scart scanline generator but it doesn't look very good, lines are too thick and spaced too far apart. Also have a VGA scanline generator which looks a lot better but still doesn't feel / look quite right.

Don't have an expensive scaler so not sure how they perform.

Best way to achieve scanlines is via CRT!
CRTs aren't always the most portable and tend to be the enemies of backs :D
As a former smash player I can tell you that they aren't portable, but we did become very practiced in lifting them :) I brought 5 CRTs to an event once!

Anyway, my personal favourite scanline generator is the T-SLG from toodles, no idea if he still makes them. Unfortunately it's VGA :( I think there's a component SLG, but then that's in line before the retrotink, so dunno how it'd look.
 
I'm using an LG OLED which can accept just about anything I throw at it. Sometimes you have to go into the "sync" settings and adjust the HLL post/pre to around 1-2 for the board to display an image. This actually happened to me recently with both a SEGA System 16 and 18 board.

Boards with unusual sync will sometimes shift in a given direction which can be corrected in the "sampling" menu under "advanced timing".

The more tolerant your display is of out of spec sync the smoother the experience.
 
The colours on the LG OLED in that pic look amazing.
Yeah it's pretty crazy. The best part is that the blacks are actually true black.
I picked it up around 10 months ago for under $1700 which is still an awesome deal.
 
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