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JTS9917

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I have an Astro City cab in perfect working order, but it came with PSU 400-5198-01Y which does not boot the newer CAVE boards. So I found a new PSU (400-5198-01) and last week swapped it in. I first powered on the cab with no pcb and tested +5v at the jamma connector... it's 5.25 so I drop it to 5.10v, which is what I normally do. I then connect my test board (non CV1000) and power on the cab... looks/works/sounds perfect. Nice! Next I connect my Futari BL pcb and power it on, it's all good except there is this issue where pixels in the bottom left are failing to draw. It creates a small black moving line, I made a video to show it:


Next day I tested the FutariBL pcb in my other cab and it looks perfect, so the issue is not with the pcb (phew...). Anyone have insight as to what could be causing this? I'm not super hopeful it can be fixed, mainly just trying to determine if it's safe to run boards on that PSU.

Thx in advance for any info^^
 
Have you checked voltage with the pcb connected? Readings without a load on the PSU don't mean much.
 
Last week my NAC Sega power supply blew a fuse that I replaced, then it blew the other fuse with a bigger bang right away.

Without hesitation, I sent it off to get a service -- a lot of capacitors and other components were replaced and now the power output seems stronger and more steady, I was getting fluctuations and low readings on my multimeter before.

I can recommend doing that if you're going to be running expensive boards... I was always worried about running the Cave stuff especially, considering the way prices are going...
 
Have you checked voltage with the pcb connected? Readings without a load on the PSU don't mean much.
I have not. I normally just test on the jamma connector because I'm not super experienced with the multi-meter and my understanding is a slip with the tester could actually damage a board?

I see your point though, that's the next logical step. I'll check into it, if anyone has tips for where to test +5v on a CV1000 board lmk :)
 
The ultimate test is checking vcc and gnd at an IC, but you can also just carefully probe right at the jamma edge while the board is connected. I did it all the time until I finally just put a voltmeter on my jamma connector.

You can dial it in with a cheaper PCB if you want. The main key is checking it while in use. That said boards do vary a little in what they draw which affects the reading, but usually not more than .1 or .2 volts between similar pcbs.

If you struggle to hold good voltage (or just for good measure like djsheep said) a recap or new psu is possibly in order.
 
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