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How are you powering up the Gun Sense Board between consoles
I built a harness that plugs into the 3rd connector on the NAOMI PSU (the smaller one that doesn't connect to the NAOMI directly) and from that I added wires and connectors for both the JVS I/O board and the Gun board.

I don't think you'd have any problem tapping power from the JVS I/O 12V output header. I believe some of the Gun games uses a dedicated 12V supply for the gun board. This is just speculation but I wouldn't be surprised if that was done simply to keep voltages fluctuation from the rest of the hardware from effecting the adjustments/calibration of the gun hardware.

Back in the day when I was an arcade tech part of our standard procedure with calibrating gun games was to first dial in the power supply because variations in the voltage could screw up the gun calibration as well as the guns ability to track at all.
 
Awesome ok. I think I will be doing the same. Since that NAOMI PSU is pretty versatile, I can keep that powering the gun board and JVS I/O regardless of which console I am using.

Thanks!
 
(Oops hit Enter accidentally)

@twistedsymphony, quick question for you on your setup, I am using the HOTD4 wiring diagram to build my control panel. I notice there are 4 pins going to a 509-8101 board.

I am figuring that just grounding PIN3 (START) activates the start button.

Is the 5V source used to power the Start Lamp? Just curious how you have your Start/TEST/SERVICE situated on your setup.

Control Panel HOTD4.jpg
 
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I finally got the IR LED Array rigged to turn on for this eventual projection setup. My problem now is that any game I load, the X Axis is always reversed by default. Do I have wires mixed up somewhere?

Nevermind. I ended up just flipping the Array horizontally. :)
 
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Yeah, they added that because the 29" cabs reflect the screen off of a mirror and the 50" rear-projection cabs don't ;)

Unfortunately there doesn't appear to be any way to flip the Y axis easily (which seems to be problematic for some Ring Edge games). Theoretically you could slap a simple op-amp circuit between the analog outputs for the Y-axis on the Gun board and the analog inputs on the I/O board, but I haven't worked out all the details on that circuit (maybe once I get around to finishing my gun setup).
 
Yeah, they added that because the 29" cabs reflect the screen off of a mirror and the 50" rear-projection cabs don't ;)

Unfortunately there doesn't appear to be any way to flip the Y axis easily (which seems to be problematic for some Ring Edge games). Theoretically you could slap a simple op-amp circuit between the analog outputs for the Y-axis on the Gun board and the analog inputs on the I/O board, but I haven't worked out all the details on that circuit (maybe once I get around to finishing my gun setup).
Interestingly enough, in Confidential Mission, there is a Deluxe<->Standard setting. I thought this would have swapped them but it didn't. What was the point?
I'd like to add more to your post about this so I can add my problems and solutions as well. I don't think I'm going all out for a 108" projection but mainly I wanted to emulate your project but with a more portable method of using a large portable frame around a 55-60" screen and have the gun setup (console+PCBs+etc) to lug around and just plug in.
 
I'd like to add more to your post
As long as it's on topic feel free to do so. this thread has got a lot more use as a informative thread about the OMZ Gun hardware than it has about my personal implementation of the project :)
 
How are you powering up the Gun Sense Board between consoles
I built a harness that plugs into the 3rd connector on the NAOMI PSU (the smaller one that doesn't connect to the NAOMI directly) and from that I added wires and connectors for both the JVS I/O board and the Gun board.
I don't think you'd have any problem tapping power from the JVS I/O 12V output header. I believe some of the Gun games uses a dedicated 12V supply for the gun board. This is just speculation but I wouldn't be surprised if that was done simply to keep voltages fluctuation from the rest of the hardware from effecting the adjustments/calibration of the gun hardware.

Back in the day when I was an arcade tech part of our standard procedure with calibrating gun games was to first dial in the power supply because variations in the voltage could screw up the gun calibration as well as the guns ability to track at all.
So using Confidential Mission wiring as my base setup, I ended up using PIN59 (+12V) and PIN15 (GND) on CN3 to power up the Gun Sense BD. The voltage reading from this source was approx. 11.49 Volts. I'm assuming this is plenty to power up the board.

I will eventually to get a comparison to connecting the Gun Sense BD directly to the PSU to compare voltages but if the voltage changes much during calibration, I'd be curious how accuracy changes between the two sources.

If I calibrate the PSU first, should the PSU output +12V exactly before anything?
 
I'd like to add more to your post
As long as it's on topic feel free to do so. this thread has got a lot more use as a informative thread about the OMZ Gun hardware than it has about my personal implementation of the project :)
Cool. The more everyone knows about the hardware, the easier it is for everyone to make their own setup.
 
So using Confidential Mission wiring as my base setup, I ended up using PIN59 (+12V) and PIN15 (GND) on CN3 to power up the Gun Sense BD. The voltage reading from this source was approx. 11.49 Volts. I'm assuming this is plenty to power up the board.

I will eventually to get a comparison to connecting the Gun Sense BD directly to the PSU
Rather than using pin 59 and pin 15 you should be using 12V and Ground from CN1. This connector is designed for power output and is basically a pass through from CN2 (which should be your 12V input), the 12V and ground pins on the large 60-pin connector are mostly for reference or small lamps, not driving large boards. you'll risk blowing out traces on your I/O board powering through that. This could also be why you're seeing such a large dip on the 12V line (it's treating the thin traces on the I/O board like resistors).

Connecting directly to the PSU is obviously much better but using the pass through is fine. I believe most of the gun setups actually have a separate 12V PSU just for the gun board, but IMO this is overkill.


if the voltage changes much during calibration, I'd be curious how accuracy changes between the two sources.

If I calibrate the PSU first, should the PSU output +12V exactly before anything?
You can't adjust 12V on most PSUs, only 5V and 3.3V (if available). This is because 12V isn't typically used for logic but rather as a high voltage sources for audio amplifiers, opamps and the like. On the Gun board 12V is barely used there's actually a 5V converter on the gun board itself because nearly all of the electronics are designed for 5V.

Since we're dealing with analog data and senors here, any time you change which connectors your using for power, change which locations you're drawing power from, or wire length, or move your sensors you should be re-calibrating. The actual reading on the 12V line doesn't matter much as long as it's in range and you calibrate to whatever it is you're getting.
 
Gotcha.
I'm comparing the diagrams for Confidential Mission and Ghost Squad and they're semi-identical except for that +12V source.

Confidential Mission uses the CN3 connection and Ghost Squad uses CN2.

I will change it to use CN2.
 
I'm wondering if they changed it up for the same exact reasons you mention.
And since Confidential Mission does not have anything special like Gun Speed, Attack or Pedals, it made sense at the time.
 
Doing a cross post here for visibility and relation:

I have a some wiring that I am still needing to connect to JVS. I have some pins I can't seem to identify:


What are these pins used for?


CN3:
31 - 1P BOM
32 - 2P BOM



Are these pins for shaking the gun (gun speed)?


CN6:
4
10
16
22


 
the "acceleration" pins are for the shaking of the gun as that's an analog signal provided by an accelerometer.

the BOM wires here are digital inputs. I'm guessing it's for the grenade button on the side of the gun. BOM being short for "bomb".
 
the "acceleration" pins are for the shaking of the gun as that's an analog signal provided by an accelerometer.

the BOM wires here are digital inputs. I'm guessing it's for the grenade button on the side of the gun. BOM being short for "bomb".
Cool. I guess I need to wire a BOM pin for these guns I have. It'll have to be a breadboard button for now.

I kind of had an assumption on the acceleration pins. Since this is an analog signal, can an arduino module or some other non sega accelerometer be used to simulate this piece of the gun?
 
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