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I can't say for sure (because I haven't tried it)
but something like this might just hook up and work: https://www.adafruit.com/product/163

It's an accelerometer that outputs 5V analog data for each axis which is exactly what the accelerometer does in the official HOTD4 guns.

Though looking at the HOTD4 schematics it looks like the official accelerometer only uses 2 axis. So this little module has one additional channel. that will give you some additional mounting options, or you could play around with which channels are being used to figure out what combination works best.

EDIT: some caveats about that board...
output is between 0v (0g) and 3.3v (3g or higher).
The Sega I/O is expecting between 0v and 5v
I don't know what the g rating is of the original accelerometers, but I do know that they're expected to range between 0V and 5V... it might be 0V = 0G and 5V = 1G in which case the scale of this module is way smaller. or it could be that the sega ones are something like 16G at the 5V end in which case this module would be way weaker.

It's also possible that calibrating the accelerometers can make up for whatever discrepancy exists here.

It could be inverted where 0V = 3G and 3.3V = 0G. If this is the case then calibration would not fix this I don't think.

If someone has one this information would be very easy to determine with a multimeter. Since gravity pulls 1G tipping the gun on it's side and keeping it still while and measuring the voltage of the outputs would give you the Voltage to G scale and direction.
 
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I can't say for sure (because I haven't tried it)
but something like this might just hook up and work: https://www.adafruit.com/product/163

It's an accelerometer that outputs 5V analog data for each axis which is exactly what the accelerometer does in the official HOTD4 guns.

Though looking at the HOTD4 schematics it looks like the official accelerometer only uses 2 axis. So this little module has one additional channel. that will give you some additional mounting options, or you could play around with which channels are being used to figure out what combination works best.

EDIT: some caveats about that board...
output is between 0v (0g) and 3.3v (3g or higher).
The Sega I/O is expecting between 0v and 5v
I don't know what the g rating is of the original accelerometers, but I do know that they're expected to range between 0V and 5V... it might be 0V = 0G and 5V = 1G in which case the scale of this module is way smaller. or it could be that the sega ones are something like 16G at the 5V end in which case this module would be way weaker.

It's also possible that calibrating the accelerometers can make up for whatever discrepancy exists here.

It could be inverted where 0V = 3G and 3.3V = 0G. If this is the case then calibration would not fix this I don't think.

If someone has one this information would be very easy to determine with a multimeter. Since gravity pulls 1G tipping the gun on it's side and keeping it still while and measuring the voltage of the outputs would give you the Voltage to G scale and direction.
I happen to have the ADXL326. I have not used it yet since I don't have a good project to test but this might be a good one to try it on.
This module takes 5V and regulates it to 3.3v. I'll have to play around with the module before I attempt to attach it to this but I'm hoping it's a good solution. I'll detach these ideas to a different thread if I get anywhere.

The other worry I have now is how to add these new wires to the gun casing itself.

I'm using these guns.
 
My gut says a 16g unit would be too high a scale but if you've already got them it's worth trying.

Of course if you've got a Lindbergh multi none of this needs to happen because there's a patched version of the game that doesn't require the accelerometer.
 
My gut says a 16g unit would be too high a scale but if you've already got them it's worth trying.

Of course if you've got a Lindbergh multi none of this needs to happen because there's a patched version of the game that doesn't require the accelerometer.
If it's not too much effort I will try it out on the stock HOTD4 install.

I also have a Multi setup on another Lindbergh and the one I have has two versions, one with Uzis and one without. I think on the one without, they do have the gun speed option in the test menu. The last time I fired this one up, I remember it not having a setting for Free Play to Coin so I didn't mess with it too much.

We shall see. :) Thanks!
 
How do you play HOTD4 without shaking the gun if that is part of the game?
 
The guns are pretty basic but they're a good setup for a majority of gun games I have tried. The gun shell has plenty of room to add a Grenade or BOM button. The cable would need to be re-sleeved or the wiring to be added alongside the cable for this.

The length of the gun cable is 53 inches from base of gun to the base plate that screws to the cab. If you extend this length to a longer amount, I wonder how much the signal degrades (if it even does).

I am currently using PIN 59 for +12V source as I mentioned in a previous comment but am planning to use either direct +12V from the NAOMI 2 PSU or from CN2 from the JVS I/O. I am completely out of JST5 connectors so until I can find another one to use, I might just splice from the PSU. Not sure yet.

After about 20-30 minutes of gameplay, the gun aim looks to waver and requires re-calibration.

I am also using a set of 10x 838-13145-02 SEGA IR boards. I have a set of chinese knockoff IR boards that I will set up and compare the differences. I'm hoping there are no technical differences but there are some physical differences:
LED IR Array.jpg

And also, if the LENS is a big factor:
Lens.jpg
 
It seems that we need an update.. Where did this project end? What was the final setup?
 
there has been no update because it hasn't progressed.

I need to come up with a solution to hang the sensor frame, unfortunately it can't be hung directly from the ceiling because the housing for my motorized projector screen stick out toward the front a good 8in or so ... once the weather is better I'll be able to start using my garage again to fab some stuff up to make it work. but it could be a while as we just got dumped with 18in of snow on Tuesday and more is expected this weekend. :(
 
For those of you who follow me on Instagram or Facebook you know I've been working on this project... I figured it was time to update the main thread here.

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I'd been thinking about how to encapsulate all of the electronics, the game board, the JVS IO, gun sense board, PSU, and mounting the guns, buttons etc. I wanted it to be as small as possible while still housing everything I needed it to and easy to move around. I looked at different arcade setups and pre-built pedestals and eventually decided to just build my own.

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basically this box is about 16in wide, 30in tall and 14in deep. the back door is where I'll mount the pcb and it's angled in by about 20deg, this is so that the heavy weight of the game pcb is more centered within the cab to keep it from tipping. the sides are oversized by about 0.5in all around the parameter this is so I could easily round the corners and install t-molding without interfering with the screws.

I planned out the dimension on paper and made a crude CAD model just to make sure larger game boards such as Model 3 and Lindbergh would fit (they do :D) then I figured out the dimensions of each panel and planned out all the cuts. I bought a single sheet of 3/4in MDF at Lowes for about $28 and had them make 4 major cuts (this also helped fit the wood in my car) then I made the remaining cuts with a skillsaw at home (a 40T blade is ideal for MDF from what I read). for the rounded corners I traced a bottle cap and rough cut it with a jig saw and then used a palm sander to smooth them out.

I also bought a piece of 1/2in square stock and some 3/4in square stock, this was invaluable as I could clamp a piece of the square stock along the edge and draw a line to know where everything would line up. for holding everything together I used 2in wood screws every 4in or so (this was measured out exactly but the distance was based on how long the side was). I drilled pilot holes for each screw to keep the MDF from splitting and I also put a chamfer in each hole so that the screw heads would be slightly counter sunk. putting it together I would clamp pieces of the 1/2in square stock along the edge of the side pieces, this ensured that all the edges were properly aligned. I used a clutched driver as well so that all the screws would be sunk perfectly .

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Once the main structure was done I mounted some casters to the bottom and mounted the back door on a hinge. I also started measuring out and drilling the holes for the buttons and guns (using a forstner bit as they make really clean holes).

You can see I also drew out where I wanted the holsters to go, I basically placed a gun against the side where I wanted it and drew a rough box around it, then I measured the angle and lengths, rounded to some nice even numbers and re-drew it with a straight edge to double check that it would work. At this point I wasn't sure what I was going to use for the holsters, I walked around tractor supply, home-depot, and lowes for a while looking for ideas before deciding to just 3D print something.
 

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The AC power connector needed to fit in a square hole. I also wanted to make a square hole with a custom panel for VGA, RCA Audio, and the LED frame connector. To do this I sketched out where I wanted the hole, then drilled a hole in each corner large enough for my jigsaw blade to cut each side
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on the AC connector I only needed 2 holes in opposite corners since I was cutting it square, but the other panel I wanted rounded corners so I drilled a hole in each corner.

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At this point I grabbed a NAOMI a Chihiro and a Lindbergh as these are the 3 systems I plan on using the most and started planning out where to mount them. Since these will be installed and removed frequently I didn't want to just screw into the MDF so I would be drilling large holes straight through and using a t-nut that way I could use a proper bolt to hold them in place and could install/remove them as much as I like without chewing up the wood.

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I tried to see if I could re-use any of the same holes for each console but it they all have different mounting patterns. I tried mounting them as low as possible too (to keep it from getting top heavy) but the Lindbergh needed to be mounted a little higher for better connector clearance.

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since I was using normal twist-drills for these holes I placed a sacrificial piece of MDF behind the panel to keep the back from blowing out. I also took a small piece of my 3/4in square stock and drilled a hole on my drill press. this would help guide my drill to ensure that all the holes I made were perfectly perpendicular.


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Once all the mounting holes were made I drilled some larger holes for ventilation. there are 4 more of these on the underside of the cab ... fresh air in the bottom, hot air out the top. the way the PCBs are mounted their exhaust fans should blow right towards these upper vent holes. The center has no vent hole since I plan on installing a lock/lock plate here eventually
 

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I finished designing and printing my gun holsters. The first test print I made I only printed the first 20 or so layers this let me print it in under 2 hours and make sure that it fit. it did need a few adjustments. The second one I printed in full took 12 hours but fit perfect thanks to the adjustments I made. then I just mirrored the model and printed the other side.

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aside from the lock all of the woodworking was done so I took some wood putty and filled in over all the screws, once dry I sanded and then wiped everything down with a damp rag and did a second round of fill since some of the screw locations were still apparent. for this you need to see with your hands. It's not done until you can run your hand over it and not know where the screws are.

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One other aspect of this project is I couldn't figure out how to hang the LED frame. the problem is I have a motorized screen and which has a very large housing that the screen rolls up into hangs wider and in front of the screen meaning I have no good way to hang the LED frame from the top. As it is the frame is already 8ft wide. I eventually had the idea to mount extensions on the top corners to extend the width of the screen another 1ft or so on either side; enough to make it wider than the the screen housing.

A while ago I had designed and printed corner brackets for the screen, they had been test-fit but I needed to drill holes in the frame pieces to finalize it. These fit very snug and getting them on or off requires the use of a mallet, but I wanted the screws on there to keep them from working themselves apart over time.

so after measuring I drilled holes using my drill press...

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since the pieces were so long I used a step stool to help hold up the other end.

Also since these were difficult to slide into the end pieces I used a file to chamfer the ends
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the corner pieces are printed in ABS with 100% infill, PLA would not be strong enough for this. ABS also has a nice dull/matte finish which works well in this application. I've been super happy with these brackets.
 

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time for paint!

I taped over the ends where the corner brackets would be installed, I didn't want paint making it even more difficult to get the end pieces on. Then I sanded with a 220 grit and wiped down an alcohol on a rag to remove any dust before painting. I use an old keyboard stand as a paint rack and have some old metal hangers bent into hooks so I can hang smaller parts. For paint I used a satin black with a nice spray nozzle attachment. I use this all the time because the nozzle helps give a nice even coat and I'm crap with paint so I can use all the help I can get.


Once paint was done I started assembling the frame

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You can see the bracket I designed, it's just an 18in piece of 3/4in L channel aluminum. I used some nylon spacers between the frame top and the extension bracket since so that it would clear the corner bracket. I used nylon locking nuts on all the hardware this helps keep them from backing out and is more compact than a nut/washer combo since space is really tight.

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Here's the frame assembled and leaning against a post in my basement while I installed all the harnesses and LED modules. The thing is absolutely massive!

I did have some issues with it. at first I thought that I had made my harnesses the wrong length but it turns out that I never cut down the vertical portions of the frame. also the 2nd and 4th sensors positions on both the top and bottom rails were off by about 2.5in so I had to dis-assemble the frame and drill new sensor holes in the proper locations and trim down the vertical portion of the frame.

I used some eye-hooks into the studs in my ceiling and then some cables and s-hooks to hang the frame. getting the position of everything was quite difficult since I was greatly limited to where I could place the hooks and the frame needed to be positioned as close to the screen surface as possible without leaning into it and of course it needed to perfectly frame the screen as well. I was really happy with the end result, it's positioned perfectly and the end result is that you can't even tell it's there!

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So where is this now?

The frame is 99% done, I might 3d print some hole covers for the LEDs I needed to re-position but that's it.

the pedestal as the game PCB, start-buttons, guns, gun IO, and JVS IO all installed. the harnesses between all of the boards is done too. I still need to permanently mount the PSU and build the AV back panel, currently I just have everything passed through the hole in the back directly to the boards for testing. I'm still waiting for some parts to arrive to build that panel. I also decided to go with a different AC connector that has an integrated AC filter (so power connector, switch, fuse and filter all in one unit!) and I'm waiting for that to arrive. Right now I'm using a NAOMI SUN PSU but I'd like to switch over to a Lindbergh PSU, I just need to build a Lindbergh PSU to JVS PSU adapter harness.

So how does it play?


I got everything wired up for play, even have start button lamps hooked up for authenticity :D but I'm having an issue with range.

The guns work at about 6ft from the screen, which is way too close for a screen of this size. I think the LEDs just aren't bright enough. I'm currently using older Jurassic Park LED modules but I have some HOTD2 LED modules that I can swap in for testing. when I built my prototype setup I tested a t 12ft without any issues but I also didn't have any of the IR filter covers on the LEDs so I'm wondering if that's cutting down on the output.

I plan to test without the covers and with the HOTD2 modules, and I'm also looking at brighter IR LED options so that I can use this at the proper range.
 
Awesome stuff.

On some of newer cabs I don’t see them using ir filters/covers. Try with out he cover first and see the result you get.

Foot get gunslinger running on that :)
 
Do you have the gss sensors? Any chance you could snap a pic?

I'm trying to come up with a good way to modularized the guns so I can swap in like te ghost squad rifle, gss guns and other stuff.

I also have time crisis guns that I want to mount the Sega sensors in. I have some foot pedals too but they need to be rebuilt.
 
Gss Sensors are on the way, they had a problem shipping because of the size of the frame.

I was thinking of powdercoating the pedals I have. I like your idea of swapping out the sensors on the time crisis guns, I have a few of those.

Would like to see what you come up for connecting the different guns.
 
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