I recently acquired a cute Pony MkII 18'' from a guy who has a place in Zurich with a multitude of pinballs and fair machines of all kinds. He had been handling two Pony 18'' for almost twenty years. He had bought them for a pittance from an owner who handled them since the late 80's: http://www.outlane.ch
The cab was quite infested by rust and painting was detached In many places, its edges was really afflicted:
Since the incessant vision of the holes overwhelming the flanks (the former owner of this cab had the wonderful idea to fix ashtrays...), I took the decision to dismount and repaint it:
We opted for a german high-end varnish, long-lasting and resistant. The outside is varnished and the inside fogged: http://www.glurcar.ch/
As basis, the coin-mech had no references. While searching at Ivos place (the guy from Outlane) I found, in his stock of scrap and spare parts a loose Asahi Seiko AD-86E. The model recovered at Ivo had a license in swiss francs, was made of plastic (only the mechanical parts are made of metal), equipped with a back system, an auxiliary appendix and a case (also Asahi Seiko) whose utility I do not know. A ''West Germany'' warranty seal (that I unfortunately lost) led me to believe that this cab, before landing at Ivo, certainly transited in West Germany. Considering the date of manufacture of the Pony this is not an anachronistic hypothesis:
Ivos stock of scrap and spare parts:
Since Seimitsu distributes some Asahi coin-mechs, I bought a brand new AD-81P with an Omron micro switch:
The ground zone contains the following elements:
>Sharp AA-110 AC 90-132V: that I replaced by a more convenient solution as a Meanwell SWN-7F powered by Sanwa: https://www.tops-game.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=2609
>Toyoden AD21-200A 200VA transformer: in perfect condition, compact and much less imposing than conventional double coil processors. Its presence allows me to presume that this cab seemed to be destined for export... Btw, to avoid the noise due to vibrations, I bought those silicone joints:
http://www.toyozumi.co.jp/products/ad21/pdfs/AD21-200A2.pdf
>TDK ZCB2203-M 250V 3A noise filter: and its replacement housing:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords= 5-160321-2
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/170823-1/A106977-ND/2284635
>NEC FL15 X1 100V 0.3A 19W ballast:
>EST MF526 10AAC 250V fuse holder: that I replaced by a Sato Parts F-4000 250V 10A:
Regarding the speaker: originally it was placed right under the monitor, inside the hatch, but its electromagnetic waves affected the geometry of the image, so I had to deport it. However, because it's massive, the place missed, so I had to replace it. I found a tiny HP from a PANA supergun of a friend. I mounted it on some small PCB so that the sound will be not smothered:
Then I arranged all elements on an MDF wood taken from an New Net City. A simple resizing was sufficient since thickness already corresponded: https://buyanypart.co.uk/parts/pcb-...-cab-vdtspcb-base-board-from-new-net-city-cab
Moreover, the board is now slightly sidelined, leaving more space in the entrance (offset to the side)
p.s. another modification I did is about the diversion of an opening intended to a screw (at the place of the agreement between trunk/head) which I exploited to serve a wiring:
On the back side, some parts also needed to be changed:
>Echo AC-1G 36mm 110V plug: according to me, this plug was originally used to link sevral cabs, since there is already an opening for passing the power cable. The part originally indicated ''EDK Japan'' but this company is also called ''Echo Electric''. I succeeded to order them from Otohori Corp, unfortunately, 100pces was the min. order qty:
http://www.edk.co.jp/product/pdf/AC-1.pdf
>Sato Parts BU-3270 bushing: which allows to secure the main plug in order to avoid a vacuum around. It seems that the old model has been relieved of its tail since the new has one. It's an essential extension that allows to introduce the wire into the bushing safety. I had to use gloves to squeeze the busing proper into the wire and push it inside the hole, but once this done the bushing is safe and hardly immovable. I also replaced the main outled by a beautiful catch covered with a gray/purplish fabric sheath: http://www.satoparts.co.jp/JPN/item/BL/BU-3270/
>Shinden SDW-206K-08 ON-OFF rocker-switch:
http://www.shinden.com/RocerSwitches/w-210k-08.htm
Shinden ask about three weeks since they do all items by hand. They have many choice of colours: I like the red one:
Contacts & housings for those switches are available there:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=170203-2
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/170823-4/A106978-ND/2284637
I bought a mini rapidfire there:
http://www.higenekodo.jp/shop/list.cgi?category=parts&file=1499591367
I also succeeded to get some Keisu FX-06R counters by Context Corp. The old one was in very good shape but a brand new product is always pleasant. The president of the company (Mr. Tsukakoshi) kindly sent me two pces as a sampler, and all charges free. At basis he still has got 20 years old stock of some GX-06R models (the one which fitted the cab) but since they didn't work well he asked to manufacture some brand new ones (FX-06R have exactly the same size)
Since last time I was talking about wood plate, the PCB side plate was also subject to be changed: I went to make dimensions corresponds and added some openings. I used scraps to reproduce the feets:
About the locks: some First LK-33-A and regarding to the cash box: a beautiful Alpha ZL-1:
I even found some Fujikura UL1007 wires and some NIX INC UL-18 cable-clamps sold by Sanwa:
https://densenkan.com/item/?s_sub_category=6
There were some adhesive foam strips wearing the border of the panel and each lateral rails on which comes the glass which covers the monitor, they are available in several sizes: 1mm thickness was proper to set the panel correctly on the glass without leaving any gap: http://asukaze-shop.com/shopdetail/007001000001/
An adhesive film was also added to avoid wear left by wrist rubbing, replacing it was though because small hairs and dust always came into it, so I needed to use a vacuum. Finaly, after a dozen of try I succeeded to set it properly. Size is 9,2mm large by 491mm long, but I made it 1mm shorter because this film was quite extendable:
Also, there is a control board which handles the service switch and the volume. This control board very pleased to me and I wanted to make it more usefull. I finally achieved this personalised version (I was lucky to find another control board at Ivos place which allowed me to realize this version). I now have a service sw (black/black), a test sw (red/black), a volume control and the image resolution setting via the toggle switch (which is only available as basis via a jumper based on the chassis but I'll give more precisions about this later)
p.s. since I have two control boards, one of them handles another version of the PCB:
To make this new version of the control board, I ordered the following items:
>KEL 3250 series 10P 3,96mm pitch edge connector to replace the 10P blue Hirose:
https://www.kel.jp/english/product/product_detail/id=396
>250V-3A On/On Nikkai M2012SS1W01 toggle switche:
https://www.nkkswitches.co.jp/product/toggle.html
>Shinden SDP-103C-10 push buttons (exactly the same that fitted the control board initially):
http://www.shinden.com/pushbuttonswitches/p103a100bbs0000.htm
>K-8075-6.1 Sato caps, also available on the enekoshop webshop:
http://www.satoparts.co.jp/JPN/item/K/K-8075-6.1/
>500ohm/1,3W RA25Y20S Tocos volume pot.:
http://www1.enekoshop.jp/shop/tocos-netshop/item_detail?category_id=11323&item_id=62171
The pot was originaly a 500ohm/1,5W RA28Y25S from Violet Electric (I guess now Tocos aka Tokyo Cosmo). The new one have a 20mm stem instead 25mm (here is even a 15mm version that I didn't tryed yet). Concerning the body, the new one has a 25mm body instead of 28mm (btw, I have a great sound with this new pot, even if 0,2w less). Since the pot is wearing a panel lock, the 3pins were directed in a way that exceeds the edge of the board, that's why I filled the initial hole and deported it to a quarter in order to direct the pins upwards:
About the panel: I bought some LS-56-01: they are very small and a bit more rigid than the former LS-32-01: https://www.tops-game.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=2694
Those are the shortest 110 AMP housing I found: they're only 18mm long compared to JST SR-110 series: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/926410-1/A122926-ND/1152350
I also ordered some 20mm Shinden SDP-103C-22BB start buttons. They are a bit different from the standard DS-412 from Seimitsu since they have some ''bat wings'' for the insert. The micro switch is also more convenient, the pressure is less heavy. SDP-103C-22BB also exists in black and all kind of colours. You can find some by Sophia, but if you want black/black you've to order them from Shinden:
About the Jamma harness: I get an edge connector by AMP there:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en...004_20120425_buynow&TE_cid=8004-1529748030444
I did my setting like this: I just have to open the hatch to plug/unplug the connectors:
I also found some 8mm red & black Nikkai AT406A silicone caps to prevent the usure of the varnish of the hatch when opening/closing the panel:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=AT406C
p.s. every connectors were AMP Mate-N-Lock series but AMP UP are much smaller and convenients:
Regarding to the neon: since both ballast and starter are NEC, this helped me to find a proper neon: as a NEC FL15ECW:
Hopefully, I found a company who made a very nice header for me. All edges are smoothly polished and I asked for a special thickness. Since both sides of the original header of the Pony 25'' (the header from the Pony 18'' is impossible to find so I didn't have any sample to show to the manufacturer) are very thick (3mm & 5mm), I asked for a thiner version (1,5mm & 3mm). Now I got a smoother and a more flexible sheet, close to the one of the Egret 2:
Since I asked for M3 holes, I bought some nice polycarbonate screws there:
https://pakku.co/collections/bolt-h...xagonal-polycarbonate-transparent-m3-m5-10pcs
https://pakku.co/collections/nut-he...al-nut-polycarbonate-transparent-m2-m12-10pcs
About the monitor:
It's a Mitsubishi 18'' coupled to a DUAL8 Nanao MS8 chassis (mine is a 18B). First I get a 18A but since the chassis was cracked I had to find another one (thanks to superpang)
The cab seems to be done now
The cab was quite infested by rust and painting was detached In many places, its edges was really afflicted:
Since the incessant vision of the holes overwhelming the flanks (the former owner of this cab had the wonderful idea to fix ashtrays...), I took the decision to dismount and repaint it:
We opted for a german high-end varnish, long-lasting and resistant. The outside is varnished and the inside fogged: http://www.glurcar.ch/
As basis, the coin-mech had no references. While searching at Ivos place (the guy from Outlane) I found, in his stock of scrap and spare parts a loose Asahi Seiko AD-86E. The model recovered at Ivo had a license in swiss francs, was made of plastic (only the mechanical parts are made of metal), equipped with a back system, an auxiliary appendix and a case (also Asahi Seiko) whose utility I do not know. A ''West Germany'' warranty seal (that I unfortunately lost) led me to believe that this cab, before landing at Ivo, certainly transited in West Germany. Considering the date of manufacture of the Pony this is not an anachronistic hypothesis:
Ivos stock of scrap and spare parts:
Since Seimitsu distributes some Asahi coin-mechs, I bought a brand new AD-81P with an Omron micro switch:
The ground zone contains the following elements:
>Sharp AA-110 AC 90-132V: that I replaced by a more convenient solution as a Meanwell SWN-7F powered by Sanwa: https://www.tops-game.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=2609
>Toyoden AD21-200A 200VA transformer: in perfect condition, compact and much less imposing than conventional double coil processors. Its presence allows me to presume that this cab seemed to be destined for export... Btw, to avoid the noise due to vibrations, I bought those silicone joints:
http://www.toyozumi.co.jp/products/ad21/pdfs/AD21-200A2.pdf
>TDK ZCB2203-M 250V 3A noise filter: and its replacement housing:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords= 5-160321-2
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/170823-1/A106977-ND/2284635
>NEC FL15 X1 100V 0.3A 19W ballast:
>EST MF526 10AAC 250V fuse holder: that I replaced by a Sato Parts F-4000 250V 10A:
Regarding the speaker: originally it was placed right under the monitor, inside the hatch, but its electromagnetic waves affected the geometry of the image, so I had to deport it. However, because it's massive, the place missed, so I had to replace it. I found a tiny HP from a PANA supergun of a friend. I mounted it on some small PCB so that the sound will be not smothered:
Then I arranged all elements on an MDF wood taken from an New Net City. A simple resizing was sufficient since thickness already corresponded: https://buyanypart.co.uk/parts/pcb-...-cab-vdtspcb-base-board-from-new-net-city-cab
Moreover, the board is now slightly sidelined, leaving more space in the entrance (offset to the side)
p.s. another modification I did is about the diversion of an opening intended to a screw (at the place of the agreement between trunk/head) which I exploited to serve a wiring:
On the back side, some parts also needed to be changed:
>Echo AC-1G 36mm 110V plug: according to me, this plug was originally used to link sevral cabs, since there is already an opening for passing the power cable. The part originally indicated ''EDK Japan'' but this company is also called ''Echo Electric''. I succeeded to order them from Otohori Corp, unfortunately, 100pces was the min. order qty:
http://www.edk.co.jp/product/pdf/AC-1.pdf
>Sato Parts BU-3270 bushing: which allows to secure the main plug in order to avoid a vacuum around. It seems that the old model has been relieved of its tail since the new has one. It's an essential extension that allows to introduce the wire into the bushing safety. I had to use gloves to squeeze the busing proper into the wire and push it inside the hole, but once this done the bushing is safe and hardly immovable. I also replaced the main outled by a beautiful catch covered with a gray/purplish fabric sheath: http://www.satoparts.co.jp/JPN/item/BL/BU-3270/
>Shinden SDW-206K-08 ON-OFF rocker-switch:
http://www.shinden.com/RocerSwitches/w-210k-08.htm
Shinden ask about three weeks since they do all items by hand. They have many choice of colours: I like the red one:
Contacts & housings for those switches are available there:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=170203-2
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/170823-4/A106978-ND/2284637
I bought a mini rapidfire there:
http://www.higenekodo.jp/shop/list.cgi?category=parts&file=1499591367
I also succeeded to get some Keisu FX-06R counters by Context Corp. The old one was in very good shape but a brand new product is always pleasant. The president of the company (Mr. Tsukakoshi) kindly sent me two pces as a sampler, and all charges free. At basis he still has got 20 years old stock of some GX-06R models (the one which fitted the cab) but since they didn't work well he asked to manufacture some brand new ones (FX-06R have exactly the same size)
Since last time I was talking about wood plate, the PCB side plate was also subject to be changed: I went to make dimensions corresponds and added some openings. I used scraps to reproduce the feets:
About the locks: some First LK-33-A and regarding to the cash box: a beautiful Alpha ZL-1:
I even found some Fujikura UL1007 wires and some NIX INC UL-18 cable-clamps sold by Sanwa:
https://densenkan.com/item/?s_sub_category=6
There were some adhesive foam strips wearing the border of the panel and each lateral rails on which comes the glass which covers the monitor, they are available in several sizes: 1mm thickness was proper to set the panel correctly on the glass without leaving any gap: http://asukaze-shop.com/shopdetail/007001000001/
An adhesive film was also added to avoid wear left by wrist rubbing, replacing it was though because small hairs and dust always came into it, so I needed to use a vacuum. Finaly, after a dozen of try I succeeded to set it properly. Size is 9,2mm large by 491mm long, but I made it 1mm shorter because this film was quite extendable:
Also, there is a control board which handles the service switch and the volume. This control board very pleased to me and I wanted to make it more usefull. I finally achieved this personalised version (I was lucky to find another control board at Ivos place which allowed me to realize this version). I now have a service sw (black/black), a test sw (red/black), a volume control and the image resolution setting via the toggle switch (which is only available as basis via a jumper based on the chassis but I'll give more precisions about this later)
p.s. since I have two control boards, one of them handles another version of the PCB:
To make this new version of the control board, I ordered the following items:
>KEL 3250 series 10P 3,96mm pitch edge connector to replace the 10P blue Hirose:
https://www.kel.jp/english/product/product_detail/id=396
>250V-3A On/On Nikkai M2012SS1W01 toggle switche:
https://www.nkkswitches.co.jp/product/toggle.html
>Shinden SDP-103C-10 push buttons (exactly the same that fitted the control board initially):
http://www.shinden.com/pushbuttonswitches/p103a100bbs0000.htm
>K-8075-6.1 Sato caps, also available on the enekoshop webshop:
http://www.satoparts.co.jp/JPN/item/K/K-8075-6.1/
>500ohm/1,3W RA25Y20S Tocos volume pot.:
http://www1.enekoshop.jp/shop/tocos-netshop/item_detail?category_id=11323&item_id=62171
The pot was originaly a 500ohm/1,5W RA28Y25S from Violet Electric (I guess now Tocos aka Tokyo Cosmo). The new one have a 20mm stem instead 25mm (here is even a 15mm version that I didn't tryed yet). Concerning the body, the new one has a 25mm body instead of 28mm (btw, I have a great sound with this new pot, even if 0,2w less). Since the pot is wearing a panel lock, the 3pins were directed in a way that exceeds the edge of the board, that's why I filled the initial hole and deported it to a quarter in order to direct the pins upwards:
About the panel: I bought some LS-56-01: they are very small and a bit more rigid than the former LS-32-01: https://www.tops-game.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=2694
Those are the shortest 110 AMP housing I found: they're only 18mm long compared to JST SR-110 series: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/926410-1/A122926-ND/1152350
I also ordered some 20mm Shinden SDP-103C-22BB start buttons. They are a bit different from the standard DS-412 from Seimitsu since they have some ''bat wings'' for the insert. The micro switch is also more convenient, the pressure is less heavy. SDP-103C-22BB also exists in black and all kind of colours. You can find some by Sophia, but if you want black/black you've to order them from Shinden:
About the Jamma harness: I get an edge connector by AMP there:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en...004_20120425_buynow&TE_cid=8004-1529748030444
I did my setting like this: I just have to open the hatch to plug/unplug the connectors:
I also found some 8mm red & black Nikkai AT406A silicone caps to prevent the usure of the varnish of the hatch when opening/closing the panel:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=AT406C
p.s. every connectors were AMP Mate-N-Lock series but AMP UP are much smaller and convenients:
Regarding to the neon: since both ballast and starter are NEC, this helped me to find a proper neon: as a NEC FL15ECW:
Hopefully, I found a company who made a very nice header for me. All edges are smoothly polished and I asked for a special thickness. Since both sides of the original header of the Pony 25'' (the header from the Pony 18'' is impossible to find so I didn't have any sample to show to the manufacturer) are very thick (3mm & 5mm), I asked for a thiner version (1,5mm & 3mm). Now I got a smoother and a more flexible sheet, close to the one of the Egret 2:
Since I asked for M3 holes, I bought some nice polycarbonate screws there:
https://pakku.co/collections/bolt-h...xagonal-polycarbonate-transparent-m3-m5-10pcs
https://pakku.co/collections/nut-he...al-nut-polycarbonate-transparent-m2-m12-10pcs
About the monitor:
It's a Mitsubishi 18'' coupled to a DUAL8 Nanao MS8 chassis (mine is a 18B). First I get a 18A but since the chassis was cracked I had to find another one (thanks to superpang)
The cab seems to be done now
Last edited:
