gamenwatch
Enthusiast
.
Last edited:
- Thread starter gamenwatch
- Start date
Last edited:
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
That is odd, my NNC doesn't have it either, nor does it have that odd cage around the psu.nice project, also make sure to get a proper CP for it
btw. what is all this? My NNC doesn't have these parts;
Following this thread, as I need to clean up my NNC surround as retrobright didn't make a dent.
The PSU looks different because it's a Lindbergh PSU not a NAOMI PSU, the lower box on the left is an AC filter, the black and white box above it I'm not sure, but it looks like a circuit breaker.
I'm guessing this cab was originally setup for Lindbergh use.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
I would totally go with vinyl dye. I did mine a few years back and it came out fantastic. While you got the machine opened up, I highly recommend swapping in some pioneer speakers in there. There is a specific model that is a drop in replacement and they sound amazing. If you're interested, I'll dig through my Amazon orders and find the model # for the speakers.
You are correct sir. Also many US cabs had the noise filter as well on original uprights.
gamenwatch
Enthusiast
2P12B panel
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
The model.of those speakers is "Pioneer TS-D1002R 4 inch"
They make such a difference for $50, that I really encourage everyone with an NNC to give them a shot. I had them in my Outrun 2SP standup as well and along with the sub they made for an amazing experience.
They make such a difference for $50, that I really encourage everyone with an NNC to give them a shot. I had them in my Outrun 2SP standup as well and along with the sub they made for an amazing experience.
gamenwatch
Enthusiast
Quick heads up as I had to dig through the interwebs and only found a post from six years ago on AO on properly removing the monitor frame.
A little bit of deception happened on my end as the cab arrived with it only having three T30 torx screws, before I even knew there were screws, with the bottom right left loose. I thought it was a pull out frame and that was not the case. I heard a crack and that's probably the bezel which means I'll either have to bondo it up or source a replacement from Yaton on eBay.
To expose the screws, you need to remove those tabs below the light and around the speaker areas. Chances are you might break the tabs into pieces, so take caution.
A little bit of deception happened on my end as the cab arrived with it only having three T30 torx screws, before I even knew there were screws, with the bottom right left loose. I thought it was a pull out frame and that was not the case. I heard a crack and that's probably the bezel which means I'll either have to bondo it up or source a replacement from Yaton on eBay.
To expose the screws, you need to remove those tabs below the light and around the speaker areas. Chances are you might break the tabs into pieces, so take caution.
Attachments
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
You can get the files for 3d printed versions of these from thingiverse. @twistedsymphonymade them and they fit perfectly.
I've got enough requests for them I'm going to be offering these for sale soon for those without access to a printer.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
Word. Let me know. I'll be in for a few extra pairs for sure.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
Yeah, I will also need 4, mine were brittle and damaged before I got the cabinet.
@OP, looking good so far, I'm really interested in how the shroud will come out.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
Yeah, just sand it smooth and paint over it again. Best rule of thumb with any kind of rattle can painting is to keep moving. Several light coats are the key to getting a nice finish.
Sand it down, and respray it. Just remember a lot of super light coats is the way to go, the vinyl dye spray is much lighter than other spray paints, so its more forgiving. But its always best to just a lot of light coats on anything your are spraying rather than one or 2 heavy coats. You can also add a sealer top coat to add some further protection and give the piece the sheen you are looking for, from matte to high gloss.
DO NOT USE BRAKE FLUID!!! that will erode the plastic itself which is 100x worse than drip marks.
I got the occasional drip mark or other blemish. what I did was wait for it to dry completely, then take some 450 grit sand paper and a water spray bottle and soak the plastic and the sand paper and gently wet sand it away. you may have to give it another coat or two with the dye if you sanded it too aggressively but once you're done you'll never know a drip was ever there.
