Finisterre
Professional
I had an older World Series control panel with all of the cables missing, so when I ran across a completely cabled one I wanted to snag it for reversing purposes.
Once the secondary panel arrived I realized it had the .093 series Molex 1360, and 1292 connectors on it, where as the Japan variants come with AMP-UP connectors.
I started by sprawling out, and detangling the factory harness. The first step was snipping off all the zip ties, etc.
I was able to loosely follow the wiring schematic. Things got odd once it got to the bat, and analog stick wiring. The diagram showed a 10 pin connector. I only had 8 pins on the kick harness to work with.
I was able to pretty easily map out the correct pins by using the standard AMP pin out on arcade otaku. https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_Naomi_Universal#Connectors_and_Pinouts
The buttons such as start, and A & B are on the 12 pin connectors. Simply use one per player.
The Analogue inputs for the bats, and sticks can be found here here, also on Arcade Otaku:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_Analogue_Wire_Harness#Input
Post wiring attempt, I only had to swap AC0 and AD1 because I had wired them incorrectly, and as such my bat, and horizontal input for the stick were swapped.
Once I sorted that out the input test screen for the World Series game seemed to work fine. Likewise the game functioned as expected once I booted it up completely.
I'll try to update this post later with exact pinouts I used. It was pretty trivial to sort out though.
The final rewired controller looks as follows, I was not entirely sure about the control panel chassis ground, but it seems to be ok going to the 2 pin (lamp?) connector. That seemed to match the schematic at least.
Here is the final wiring, before I clean it up with zipties, etc.
Once the secondary panel arrived I realized it had the .093 series Molex 1360, and 1292 connectors on it, where as the Japan variants come with AMP-UP connectors.
I started by sprawling out, and detangling the factory harness. The first step was snipping off all the zip ties, etc.
I was able to loosely follow the wiring schematic. Things got odd once it got to the bat, and analog stick wiring. The diagram showed a 10 pin connector. I only had 8 pins on the kick harness to work with.
I was able to pretty easily map out the correct pins by using the standard AMP pin out on arcade otaku. https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_Naomi_Universal#Connectors_and_Pinouts
The buttons such as start, and A & B are on the 12 pin connectors. Simply use one per player.
The Analogue inputs for the bats, and sticks can be found here here, also on Arcade Otaku:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_Analogue_Wire_Harness#Input
Post wiring attempt, I only had to swap AC0 and AD1 because I had wired them incorrectly, and as such my bat, and horizontal input for the stick were swapped.
Once I sorted that out the input test screen for the World Series game seemed to work fine. Likewise the game functioned as expected once I booted it up completely.
I'll try to update this post later with exact pinouts I used. It was pretty trivial to sort out though.
The final rewired controller looks as follows, I was not entirely sure about the control panel chassis ground, but it seems to be ok going to the 2 pin (lamp?) connector. That seemed to match the schematic at least.
Here is the final wiring, before I clean it up with zipties, etc.
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