Tumblepop SMD loose fix

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    • Tumblepop SMD loose fix

      I recently got a few boards and one of them was Tumble pop. Infact it is the very same board which was repaired below:
      jammarcade.net/tumblepop-repair-log/

      The image is not stable on the board and I realised if I press the DE56 chip on one corner the image stabilises and is crystal clear.

      I am not good at soldering but have access to tools like heat gun etc.

      Can anyone please guide me how to fix this issue? Will heating up the area and pressing it down fix this problem?
      DS MULTI: CPS2|STV|MVS
      DS WISHLIST: CPS1|PGM
      Other Wishlist: Sega Monaco GP| Taito Grand Champion | Taito Speed Race
      KLOV
    • just reflowing it would do the trick, add some flux and gently go over it with a proper hot air rework station.
      Lots of videos on Youtube how to operate one.

      But I would recommend 'testing' on a scrap/parts board first before you get to the real work.
      And when in doubt, send it of to someone to do it for you, where are you located?

      Also a pic of the board and an up-close pic of the culprit would help :)
    • Thanks @PascalP, I am right now in India and this board came from continental Europe 1 month back - not sure it will like to travel back :P

      I ordered a rework station and a few other stuff couple of days back, I have a couple of boards acting up. Hoping to learn a bit of soldering and stuff to see if I can get my stuff working.

      These are the photos;

      This is the board


      If I press on the pin 40-41 corner of the chip, the video stabilises. Should I try pressing on the legs on the PCB to isolate further? I tried it once it seemed like pressing on the corner helps, not pressing the joints on the PCB...
      DS MULTI: CPS2|STV|MVS
      DS WISHLIST: CPS1|PGM
      Other Wishlist: Sega Monaco GP| Taito Grand Champion | Taito Speed Race
      KLOV
    • looks like it already has been reflowed once I think?
      Also around pin 98 it looks a bit dodgy.
      But the bottom side of the pins (41-80) look a bit blurry in your picture, how does it look in real life?
      Do you have a magnifying glass to examine the pins if you see something or a loose connection?

      I would go with a reflow first, use lots of flux and you should be OK ;)

      The post was edited 1 time, last by PascalP ().

    • Yes, this is literally the same board as in this is the board:

      jammarcade.net/tumblepop-repair-log/

      So basically it was reflowed once because it had some sprite issue earlier. I shall try looking at the 98 area and other pins. Let me check how to reflow these sort of chips :) Thanks.
      DS MULTI: CPS2|STV|MVS
      DS WISHLIST: CPS1|PGM
      Other Wishlist: Sega Monaco GP| Taito Grand Champion | Taito Speed Race
      KLOV
    • You need a soldering iron with a chisel tip to do a reflow - as @PascalP said, practice on scrap boards first.

      I would suggest if it's not a job you've done before and you are new to soldering, a fine pitch SMD reflow is not where you want to start learning.

      Perhaps asking at local shops that do mobile phone repairs (who are likely to have the equipment) might be willing to fix it for you?

      There are lots of shops like that here, or TV/electronics repair shops - they might be willing to help out.

      I would assume in a very tech heavy country like India particularly in the larger cities, shops like this would be common
    • Yes I have already packed it in the pink bubble wrap, I have old electronic boards which I plan experiment on for atleast a week and only after that I would want to try it...

      Regarding the mobile repair shops I just dont know anyone reliable. We did have good repairers back 10 or 20 years, now it seems everyone tries to push new tech and not sure I would want to risk a board to someone I dont know.. But I know what you mean I have seen people with rework station in small mobile repair stores.

      Can I use this hot air and solder paste method to reflow?
      DS MULTI: CPS2|STV|MVS
      DS WISHLIST: CPS1|PGM
      Other Wishlist: Sega Monaco GP| Taito Grand Champion | Taito Speed Race
      KLOV

      The post was edited 1 time, last by suverman ().

    • You can, but that is advanced level soldering. YouTube makes it look much easier than it is (trust me I've made enough messes to know)

      I've found it much easier to do reflows with a soldering iron and a wide chisel tip because this provides pressure to push the pins down too. Hot air doesn't do that and relies on the solder to melt around the pins

      Edit: in that video that's a brand new IC going onto a new PCB, so he tacks down one pin which holds everything flat. You're trying to reflow pins onto an existing PCB with previous solder in place.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by xodaraP ().

    • The Data East 56 is the tilemap generator so it makes sense.
      About reflowing it, I don't recommend hot air netiher the "drag soldering" tecnique especially for a beginner, you can risk to damage the board (lifting pads) applying too much heat.Instead I recommend you to solder all pins one by one using some flux (or solder paste) and putting the iron tip (not a chisel one) on each individual pin applying some pressure.With this tecnique I'm able to solder finest QFP ICs like the one in this repair log

      jammarcade.net/tatsujin-oh-repair-log/

      Obviously I suggest some preliminary practice on parts boards.

      The post was edited 2 times, last by caius ().