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Ideally, yes video and audio should be shielded. In reality, it makes little difference, look inside any arcade cab and tell me what you think of the wiring. Nothing is shielded, nothing is isolated.

One could utilise a third separated connector for video / audio, but then we're adding complexity and cost. An 8 pin mini DIN would probably work well.

As long as power wiring is adequate I think we'll be okay.

What I'm trying to achieve is a jamma extension cable with off the shelf parts, with minimal assembly. Just two PCBs, 2 x connectors to solder to each PCB and 1 x jamma connector to one of the PCBs. After that, all that's needed is to plug in 2 x cables. Very quick and no fuss way of producing jamma extenders.

What we need to find is cables that can be purchased pre-assembled and of the same length. They must contain identical connectors on each end, and have PCB mount connectors of the opposite gender available. The general data lines aren't as strict with requirements, power needs to be adequate to handle 15 Amps, video / audio may need screening?

So far the 30cm IDC cable and 30cm PCI cable is all I can find that fits the requirement. Open to suggestions if anyone can think of anything better. Oh and thinking about it, 50 pin IDC is overkill, I think 34 to 40 pin is more than enough.
 
audio is amplified on a JAMMA setup so it doesn't need to be shielded/isolated but it does need thicker gauge wire, similar to the power wires. Even if you're passing it out to a line level converter in a super gun you don't want to be pushing too much power through those thin ribbon wires.

As for Video, why not just use a VGA connector for video then you can have your pick of any cheap VGA cable since most of them have shielding already.

From that you can pair down the IDC to something smaller. you'd need 26 pins to cover 2 players up to 6 buttons each and 26 pin happens to be a fairly common/cheap size too

heck it couldn't hurt to "borrow" and existing standard similar to the connectors and pinout used by the Namco System 256
 
I must admit, VGA did spring to mind.

I just don't want things becoming too messy with cables running everywhere and of different lengths. Plus all those cables dangling out will add weight especially with VGA cables, that may put stress on the jamma finger.

Ideally I'd like a simple solution with neat cabling and all cables available at an identical length to avoid curling of cables etc.
 
Physical size and mechanical loading are a real concern with things like VGA and DVI. The more I think about things like packaging and wire gauge, the more I think Jasen really has the hot setup. Near as I can tell, he's running a 4-pin JST J4300 with 14 gauge and a 40-pin long-arm JST RA with crimp connectors and 24 gauge. Lots of crimping, but if you've got a benchtop crimper you could crank those things out with impunity.
 
Just throwing out more ideas...

How about using component RCA cables for RGB? Keeps video separated and screened.

Maybe an s-video cable? 4 pins to work with, RGBS, once again screened cable.

2 pin JST XH for audio to keep it separated with thicker wiring.
 
That Jasen's harness extension looks awesome. I used to offer something similar in 2016, but to be honest it was still a lot of work to assemble, no wonder not too many people offer good quality harnesses.

24041803142_8bb89eb847.jpg
Yes, those harness are pretty darn good, I should have bought more from you.
 
I was thinking what about a 2xATX extender, they are 18 AWG and cost 9 bucks each, I wouldn't care about insulation for short range to begin with, if noise happens it's still possible to use additional connectors like mini jack + mini din

71uqrGsgmLL._SL1500_.jpg
 
That Jasen's harness extension looks awesome. I used to offer something similar in 2016, but to be honest it was still a lot of work to assemble, no wonder not too many people offer good quality harnesses.

24041803142_8bb89eb847.jpg
What were you using for power connectors on those?
 
ATX could work well, but can you purchase the cables with 2 x male plugs as opposed to 1 x male and 1 x female.
 
Well, since people are throwing out ideas...

Can someone solve the solution of a tight fit and being able to pull off the end from the game PCB easier? I cracked my HAS connector (as did some others) and I just wish it was easier to remove the connector. Any ideas? A handle maybe?
 
Is that due to the connector being such a tight fit or because it's hard to physically grip with your hands?

I tried every jamma connector I could find until I settled on one. Most of them gripped ridiculously tightly, the ones I'm using now don't, they grip securely enough for good contact but not so much that they're difficult to insert / remove.
 
I think its the grip, but also, I just wish there was an easier way to do it. The connector is great for plug in and make money for a few months, but for a home SG setup, it blows.

maybe, this is moonshot thinking, if the wires came out the side somehow, so you could make some type of holder for the connector and pull it off.
 
I think its the grip, but also, I just wish there was an easier way to do it. The connector is great for plug in and make money for a few months, but for a home SG setup, it blows.

maybe, this is moonshot thinking, if the wires came out the side somehow, so you could make some type of holder for the connector and pull it off.
I think the best approach is to bolt the supergun to a board (or harness to the side of a cabinet) and make a "sacrificial" JAMMA extension that's like ~8" long. If you screw it up, just throw it away and get another one. This is where a flexible PCB does indeed sound like a really good idea. The typical 28 AWG you see in JST RA cables like a 40-pin IDE cable sure are small, but might work for non-power if the run is only six inches.
 
I'm thinking of designing a pcb today with one x 24 pin ATX and one x 36 pin IDC. ATX for all power, audio, video (23 connections) and the IDC for everything else (31 connections).

This means all power, audio video will be utilising 18 AWG wiring, everything else will be fine with IDC ribbon cable.

You can buy both ATX and IDC cables pre-assembled, the only bit of manual labour required will be to use a pin extraction tool to remove the female connector of the ATX cable and replace with male.

ATX 24: 23 used connections

1.GND - jamma pin 1
2.GND - jamma pin A
3.GND - jamma pin 2
4.GND - jamma pin B
5.GND - jamma pin 27
6.GND - jamma pin e
7.GND - jamma pin 28
8.GND - jamma pin f
9.+5V - jamma pin 3
10.+5V - jamma pin C
11.+5V - jamma pin 4
12.+5V - jamma pin D
13.-5V - jamma pin 5
14.-5V - jamma pin E
15.+12V - jamma pin 6
16.+12V - jamma pin F
17. RED - jamma pin 12
18. GREEN - jamma pin N
19. BLUE - jamma pin 13
20. SYNC - jamma pin P
21. VIDEO GND - jamma pin 14
22. Speaker+ - jamma pin 10
23. Speaker- - jamma pin L

IDC 36: 31 used connections

24. Coin1
25. Coin2
26. P1 start
27. P2 start
28. P1 up
29. P2 up
30. P1 down
31. P2 down
32. P1 left
33. P2 left.
34. P1 right
35. P2 right
36. P1 B1
37. P2 B1
38. P1 B2
39. P2 B2
40. P1 B3
41. P2 B3
42. P1 B4
43. P2 B4
44. P1 B5
45. P2 B5
46. Jamma pin 8
47. Jamma pin 9
48. Jamma pin 11
49. Jamma pin 15
50. Jamma pin J
51. Jamma pin K
52. Jamma pin M
53. Jamma pin R
54. Jamma pin S

Leaving the x 2 jamma key pins disconnected.
 
I think its the grip, but also, I just wish there was an easier way to do it. The connector is great for plug in and make money for a few months, but for a home SG setup, it blows.

maybe, this is moonshot thinking, if the wires came out the side somehow, so you could make some type of holder for the connector and pull it off.

There are two holes on the end of the connector where you could add a handle and some bolts,

Kinda like these.

$_35.JPG


There are others where the screw or bolt would go from behind

brushed-stainless-steel-round-style-cabinet-d-handles.jpg


I thought of something like this as noticed the difficulty in removing the connector with limited space between the board and the jamma edge
 
I got a start on the PCB. There will be two separate PCBs, one with a jamma finger and the other with a jamma edge connector. Both will have female 24 pin ATX and 34 pin IDC connectors which will allow them to be connected via a 24 pin ATX extension cable and 34 pin IDC ribbon cable.

JAMMA-EXTENDER.png
 
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