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Black IcE

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I was reading on a repair log about using a basic "soda" bath to soak a module similar to the HB-41 from a Raiden board to remove the black material. However I am not familiar with this technique. How would I make this solution ? I know Caius makes repro HB-41 boards, and I may grab one, but I want to try this first. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Intersted as well, need to recap a Konami module from my Xmen :)
 
I used paint stripper to remove the paint from my X-Men sound module. Cleaned it afterwards with rubbing alcohol. Also, not sure why, but people seem to paint it again after recapping. Why would you do this?
 
The other thing I am curious about with the sound module for Raiden is if I can repair it just by fixing the broken traces from it splitting, or if I am just better off getting a replacement from Caius ?
 
The other thing I am curious about with the sound module for Raiden is if I can repair it just by fixing the broken traces from it splitting, or if I am just better off getting a replacement from Caius ?
I'd just get a replacement from Caius. His repros are fantastic.

I had the opportunity to test his HB-45A module for Raiden DX. It's a perfect repro-replacement.
http://www.jammarcade.net/seibu-hb-45a-reproduction/

I highly recommend getting his HB-41 for your Raiden, save yourself the hassle.
 
I got a couple of original / ok HB41's from scrap boards going spare if you're mind is set on keeping it 100% original.

The caius part will last longer than the 20 year old parts.
 
Intersted as well, need to recap a Konami module from my Xmen :)
It's only paint, so a paint stripper of some type. However, some can be pretty harsh on both the board and your fingers, eyes, etc (if you're not careful).

I've used this on the Konami hybrid sound modules:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Expo-Modellers-PAINT-REMOVER-STRIPPER-50mls-bottle-44500/183273855919

it does a pretty good job and doesn't cause any issues (to the board or you) that I've noticed.

It's still a messy process though and you need to be careful when cleaning it off - use a soft plastic spatula or similar and avoid damaging the tracks, printed resistors, and so on.
 
I was reading on a repair log about using a basic "soda" bath to soak a module similar to the HB-41 from a Raiden board to remove the black material. However I am not familiar with this technique. How would I make this solution ? I know Caius makes repro HB-41 boards, and I may grab one, but I want to try this first. Any help would be appreciated.
Haven't heard of the soda bath solution but would love to know more - the HB-41 module (and many others) use a potting compound/resin which is a real sod to remove. A paint stripper just won't do the job.
 
Thanks @VectorGlow!

So you left the chip on the board? I actually plan to remove it first to make it a bit easier doing it.
Will see how it goes when I get time for it ;)
 
Thanks @VectorGlow!

So you left the chip on the board? I actually plan to remove it first to make it a bit easier doing it.
Will see how it goes when I get time for it ;)
There's two surface mounted chips on the Konami hybrid sound modules, both are on the underside of the module. Yup, I left them in place, I only applied the paint remover that I linked to once I had removed the caps from the top side.

Having said that, there's no reason to strip the pain from the underside of the module unless it's already peeling, there's damage from leaky caps, etc.
 
I've posted the soda bath method in this thread:
Capcom 85H001 (sound module) reproduction

Also you MUST remove the module completely for a recap as electrolytic fluid from the capacitors has to been cleaned on both side. Even if the sound is brought back to life with new caps the fluid will continue to eat the traces underneath.
Thanks, but I think your images are broken?
 
I've posted the soda bath method in this thread:
Capcom 85H001 (sound module) reproduction

Also you MUST remove the module completely for a recap as electrolytic fluid from the capacitors has to been cleaned on both side. Even if the sound is brought back to life with new caps the fluid will continue to eat the traces underneath.
Thanks, but I think your images are broken?
Check out his blog page:

http://arcadefixer.blogspot.com/2018/02/capcom-85h001-sound-module-reproduction.html
 
I've posted the soda bath method in this thread:
Capcom 85H001 (sound module) reproduction

Also you MUST remove the module completely for a recap as electrolytic fluid from the capacitors has to been cleaned on both side. Even if the sound is brought back to life with new caps the fluid will continue to eat the traces underneath.
Update: I tried Mr Muscle on a Taito TC0070RGB module (one of these: http://www.macros-arcade.com/images/TC0070-Real.jpg (not my pic)) but no luck I'm afraid. What type of material are these encased in? Some kind of hard epoxy?
 
Thanks. Any ideas what could dissolve it without harming the components, PCB or tracks? ? :)
 
Thanks. Any ideas what could dissolve it without harming the components, PCB or tracks? ? :)
Without harming the components? No...
If it's the material I think of it should be softish, what I do is I cut 3 sides with a sharp blade then heat the thing up with hot air. This way you should be able to peel the coating but no guarantee you won't damage anything in the process.
 
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