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Aero city nanao ms8 26 inch monitor help!

kingau

kingau

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Hi everyone I need some help,
I just bought a cap kit off of ebay for my nanao ms8 26 inch chassis.
and after I was done the screen turned to this


the H sink is out of wack and I used the knobs and this is the close to what I can get...
has anyone every ran in to this problem ?

thanks in advance
20181004_134601.jpg
 
It looks like your image is also doubled horizontally. Did you put it back on 15khz? Looks like 15k being fed into 24k (but also H.Hold issues.)
 
First, don't run the monitor like this for more than a few seconds. running too long like this can kill your HOT or your Flyback.

Simple things to check first
1. - as rewrite said the MS8 has multiple connectors on the main board for selecting 15KHz or 25KHz, make sure you hooked up the correct connector (should be labeled HIGH for 25K and LOW for 15K)
2. - go over all of the caps you changed, verify that they are the same value as the original caps you removed (the cap list that came with your kit should NEVER be considered a reliable source, always use the original cap values as your guide). Also inspect that the solder joints are good (no bridges, blobs or cold joints), and that all of the caps are oriented the correct way.
3. - triple check that everything is plugged in correctly.

If all of the above are good then

use a multi meter to confirm that the sync pin on your JAMMA edge is making good connectivity all the way to the input header on the chassis.

when you change your h-hold pot does the screen move as if reacting to the chaining pot value? or is it completely ignored as if you didn't touch it at all?
 
twistedsymphony said:
when you change your h-hold pot does the screen move as if reacting to the chaining pot value? or is it completely ignored as if you didn't touch it at all?
Click to expand...
yes it still moves, and the ebay caps that I changed where different value from the original ...smh :(
 
And did you move the connector to the 15k / low pins from the 24 /high before playing with the pot again?

What does your new picture look like since then?
 
rewrite said:
And did you move the connector to the 15k / low pins from the 24 /high before playing with the pot again?

What does your new picture look like since then?
Click to expand...
where do I fine this connector to 15k/24 pin?
twistedsymphony said:
kingau said:
I changed where different value from the original ...smh
Click to expand...
different value how?you should never change the Farad rating but increasing the voltage is ok.
Click to expand...
I'm going to look over every cap ... I know there where a couple of caps with different Farad rating.
 
it's a big white connector towards the center of the pcb near right next to the yoke connector.
 
kingau said:
where do I fine this connector to 15k/24 pin?
Click to expand...
Until you fix this, there's no point touching the rest of it as it'll never sit right.

There are two sets of pins that connector can go onto. Yours is on the wrong one. So swap it over to the other one, and then go back to @twistedsymphony's suggestions on playing with the pot and following the sync pin off of the JAMMA edge.

https://imgur.com/a/qDm7492
 
Glad it's up and running.

Thankfully I'm still waiting on the cab that monitor belongs in, so it was easy to just walk over to and snap a couple pics.
 
kingau said:
it's fixed, I change the jummper now it's working!

big thanks to
rewrite
DecepticonZero
twistedsymphony


you were right rewrite... thank you so much
Click to expand...
Glad you got it sorted, before doing any work just take a few pictures showing where everything is connected and how (what direction) etc...will save you a lot of headaches later.

For Ex...I do this in construction always when we prewire houses/apts for everything low voltage(catv, tel,data, alarm, and anything plastic, etc..that can be easily drilled thru or screwed into, even piping. I take pics of the wiring/piping and take measurements of how far things are from each other before walls are closed off and I make a little binder/guide. Usually make 2 copies, one for the office and one for the tenant or buyer, that way if there is anything to track down/serviced you know where what is behind the walls, also serves as a guide for tenants showing where they can mount tv, frames, etc.. without fearing they are gonna hit something. Like that tenant that put a hole in a 2 1/2" water main riser on a 3rd floor unit hanging an 8x10" frame using a 3 1/2" framing nail :cursing: that hole flooded 3 units and the basement level by the time the water main to the building was shut off.
 
Last edited:
Will do next time Derick2k, and thanks for the info!

I was in such a rush to fix the chassis I didn't take the basic steps... X/
 
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