JAMMA Passthrough for linking cabs?

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    • 8bitforlife wrote:

      mine are 2 Sega blast city if that makes a difference. I could see what you mean if lets say my neo geo 6 slot

      It doesn't make a difference, you're confusing the big metal cage that includes the power supply among other things, with the power supply itself.

      Your monitor runs directly on AC power from the wall, In a Blast City those wires just happen to be routed through the big metal cage with your power supply in it. the only reason Sega did that is so they could stick a fuse on there.

      It still doesn't change the fact that the monitor wont put a draw on your power supply and thus you'll still need a load resistor to keep your power supply from eating itself if you're using that Konami link board.
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    • twistedsymphony wrote:

      8bitforlife wrote:

      @twistedsymphony hey I bought the same konami pcs you got mine didn't come with the extra resistors and stuff on right side of it. Are those needed for what your doing?
      yeah, I noticed that there are a few different versions of this Konami 4P board. the resistors and junk on mine look like they're for handing the coin meters, so not necessary at all.
      HOWEVER, none of these boards appear to have a load resistor, this would be necessary for the second cab to keep the power supply happy (otherwise you'd want to disconnect the PSU in the second cab), I'll likely be adding this to mine

      the PGM IGS 4P link boards have one, it's that large white block:

      I like where this is all headed. The IGS type harness seems like the way to go.

      Are you make it so you have:

      2, 3 or 4 player support across 2 cabs or maybe be capable of linking 4 cabs?
      Button remapping/configuration for the different setup via jumpers or dip switches, etc.
      Kick harness connectors/integration/condenser for the different games/systems that need them

      I think this could be an awesome product to have available.


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    • twistedsymphony wrote:

      8bitforlife wrote:

      mine are 2 Sega blast city if that makes a difference. I could see what you mean if lets say my neo geo 6 slot
      It doesn't make a difference, you're confusing the big metal cage that includes the power supply among other things, with the power supply itself.

      Your monitor runs directly on AC power from the wall, In a Blast City those wires just happen to be routed through the big metal cage with your power supply in it. the only reason Sega did that is so they could stick a fuse on there.

      It still doesn't change the fact that the monitor wont put a draw on your power supply and thus you'll still need a load resistor to keep your power supply from eating itself if you're using that Konami link board.
      ok I understand. Sorry still learning this hobby. I'm learning more and more every day.

      @Derick2k that would be awesome for parties and such for people with 2 or more cabs.

      I'm thinking this would be a need for a 3p/4p condensor if there ever was one so you could run a multi jamma for konami boards.

      I'm trying to get my boss to put a cab in theater I work at but she's very old school and thinks there would be too much condition with it.
      My Cabs: Blast City | Blast City | Egret 2 | Windy II | Neogeo 6 Slot
    • Derick2k wrote:

      2, 3 or 4 player support across 2 cabs or maybe be capable of linking 4 cabs?
      Button remapping/configuration for the different setup via jumpers or dip switches, etc.
      Kick harness connectors/integration/condenser for the different games/systems that need them
      There are a lot of ideas but I don't want to get too far into scope creep.

      Here's what I currently envision:
      The "master" JAMMA passthrough will provide a 4-pin audio header, a 6-pin video header with an amp, and a 15 pin header for Player 2 controls

      Then there is a wire bundle with 4 harnesses, a 4 pin harness for audio, a 6 pin harness for video, and 2x 15 pin harnesses for players.

      Finally the "Slave" JAMMA board will look similar to that Konami board, it will have a 4-pin audio input connector, a 4-pin audio output connector, a 6-pin video input connector, and 2x 15 pin player input connectors. it will also have a load resistor. and maybe an LED.

      This allows for the following:
      1. AV connectors on the Pass through PCB and the player connectors directly on the game PCB means Players 1 and 2 on the "Master" cab and Players 3 and 4 on the "Slave" cab.
      2. The P2 header on the "master" board allows you to plug in the player harness that would normally be for P3 and use this as a 2P VS setup.
      3. the addition of the P2 header on the master board also means that for 3 player games you'll have the option of P1 on the master cab with 2 and 3 on the slave, or P1 and 2 on the master cab with P3 on the slave.
      4. using a 4-pin header for Audio means that for those board that have a 4-pin stereo connector you can connect the audio to the original board connector as opposed to the master board. the addition of an audio output connector on the slave board means your slave cab can also get the full stereo signal instead of having to use the JAMMA edge.
      5. with a video amp on the master board you can use just the AV connectors to output to a capture device
      6. 3 players on 3 cabs using 2 kits: install 2 masters on the master cab, use the AV output and P2 header on one for cab 2, use the AV output and the game board player connector for cab 3.
      7. 4 players on 4 cabs using 3 kits: same setup as the 3-players on 3 cabs except you install an additional master onto the P3 slave board.

      Other "maybe" features:
      -instead of using 15pin Konami style NH connector use TE-Amp Up connectors on the Master side with a short modular "pigtail" connector to convert to Konami style, or Capcom style, or Midway style, 4P connectors etc.

      -include a jumper or a dip switch that swaps the coin and start buttons. There seems to be A LOT of these 4-player games that do not have a start button or a freeplay mode so this would allow you to use start as the coin drop for those games.

      Things I'm not doing:
      -Full button remapping seems overkill and would likely significantly increase the cost, I'm not sure how much value there is either since most of these games only use 2 buttons.

      -a single unified harness. it might look cleaner to have a harness like the PGM one, but it loses all of it's modular functionality and hurts the feature set. Adapters to different style connectors would also be more difficult.

      -kick harness condenser on the master board. not really necessary. most games with a kick connector are already using the Player 3/Player 4 headers on the game board for the kick buttons anyway. so this could be accomplished with using the P3/P4 connectors as is in most cases. I might include a CPS1 or CPS2 style kick connector on the slave, but it's more a matter of if there's room and how much cost it will add.
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    • I've gone through a whole bunch service manuals to try to find out which games share which 3 Player or 4 Player configuration.
      There are a number of games that are unique but here are all the shared pin configs I've found:

      Konami/Data East - 23 games
      Midway/Atari/EA/Strata T-UNIT/Wolf/Phoenix/Seattle/Vegas - 18 games
      Taito B/F1/F2/F3 - 13 games
      Capcom CPS2/CPS3/CAPCOM JVS IO - 8 games
      Capcom CPS1/CPS Q-Sound - 8 games
      PGM IGS - 8 games
      Namco System2/NA/NB/11/12 - 7 games
      Irem - 5 games
      Midway Y-Unit - 4 Games
      Sega System 18 - 4 games
      Sega System 32 - 3 games
      PGM IGS2 - 3 games
      Sega Pre-16/System 16/System 24 - 3 Games
      Technos - 2 games

      I'd probably look at supporting everything down to and including Irem, but nothing below that.
      Sega's System 16 and System 18 pin config is incredibly stupid and utilizes some pins on the edge connector for some 3P and 4P functions <_<

      I'm still looking for pinout info for the following games if anyone has a manual or other info on the wiring:
      ??? 3P
      -Brute Force
      -Ghost Busters (3 Player)

      ??? 4P
      -Blazing Tornado
      -Snow Bros. 2 - With New Elves / Otenki Paradise
      -D.D. Crew
      -Dunk Dream '95 / Hoops / Hoops '96
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    • A simplified version of the pass thru with video and audio only, would be of interest to me and might be or interest to others. Effectively, a means for splitting video and audio for external display, recording, etc, with a fully amplified signal for both the cab monitor and external display.

      If I read things correctly, this is effectively already integral to the solution, but if not, then disregard, I'm sure it's not worth adding extra circuitry and tasks to this project.

      :edit: somehow I missed the last 2 posts on this thread, before posting. So, it looks like what I'm hoping for is definitely baked in. Would it be possible to do a slightly lower-cost version, with just the a/v split out and none of the controls?

      The post was edited 1 time, last by YesAffinity ().

    • YesAffinity wrote:

      :edit: somehow I missed the last 2 posts on this thread, before posting. So, it looks like what I'm hoping for is definitely baked in. Would it be possible to do a slightly lower-cost version, with just the a/v split out and none of the controls?
      yes, of course... That's actually all my prototype does right now; just splits off audio and video.

      any product that comes out of this is still a long ways off though; right now it's just a concept ;)
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    • kuze wrote:

      I love where your head's at on this, a "universal" and well thought out 2/4p multi cab adapter/harness would kick major ass.
      Totally agree. The wiring to interconnect between cabs can possibly be an already made cable, even shielded, etc...that you would have to make something from scratch, or at least not all of it. Maybe a multi wire cable like scart, etc...


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    • Ghostbusters is all jamma based I believe. Reading up after debockle I had after mine. 3p is on jamma and has to be wired from jamma connector I believe.

      I supposedly bought a 3 player Ghostbusters. Came with a broke custom. Got it repaired and it was 2player. Wish I had take pictures of the motherboard before I sent it to get fixed. Because now I'm missing stickers on my roms and its 2 players after being fixed.

      Edit: I knew I had seen the manual found it.
      antelopearcade.com/files/Arcad…THE_REAL_GHOSTBUSTERS.PDF
      My Cabs: Blast City | Blast City | Egret 2 | Windy II | Neogeo 6 Slot

      The post was edited 2 times, last by 8bitforlife ().

    • if that pinout is correct than it's not even JAMMA. according to that it's pinned backwards and the audio and video pins are remapped.

      basically to make that work it needs a custom pass-through adapter. It's not something I'm interested in doing unless I end up with a Ghostbusters PCB myself.
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