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tiff_lee

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Ok looking for some info on " RS Braun tube (Japanese) or tri-sync Braun tube"

I'm in the process of buying a container load of blast city cabs from Japan and as i'm sure many of you are aware the original tri-sync CRT's are notorious for failing.

The guy i'm dealing with has told me the original CRTs have been replaced with the aforementioned Braun tubes, i've never heard of them and a cursory google search has brought up nothing, can anyone shed any light on them?

cheers, Lee
 
Yeah I eventually came across that site from google, not sure them being replacements from them are a good thing or not? Did you get that Astro!
 
Yeah I eventually came across that site from google, not sure them being replacements from them are a good thing or not? Did you get that Astro!
From memory (of what I've read), they aren't all that bad? I heard peeps talk about them on the Shmups forum and it's probably a good thing ultimately as you won't have the risk of leaking goop.

p.s. Still gotta pick up the Astro. Been pissing down rain here for weeks and it's a bit of a gamble on a ute. The guy's super sweet holding it for me :)
 
Yeah that's cool, i'm a big fan of a mans word is his bond so good to see him holding it for you.
 
Oh he's a fellow member on here eh, good job I didn't say what I really thought :P
 
Oh he's a fellow member on here eh, good job I didn't say what I really thought :P
He's been ultimately understanding, I was meant to go right over and pick it up, but he's been patient two weekends of heavy rain and storms here in Brissy... hopefully sometime this week!
 
I have 15+ Nanao MS-2930 / 2931. I haven't had issues with any of them and I've put thousands of hours on them. Most of them have "the goop".

I would choose an original Nanao over a replaced monitor every time. Most likely the replacement is Chinese junk (or Taiwanese as is the case for Wei-Ya).

However, this said, it's true that they're or more less unrepairable. None of the repair guys want to touch them because the underside is full of SMD components. Best just to grab a few cabs for spares.
 
What is the goop people speak of? is the failure of the original tubes on the electronics side of the actual 'tube' part?
 
The part of a 2931 that irreplaceable is the flyback. If the flyback is gone, the chassis is garbage.

The black goop is melted epoxy resin from components beside the flyback. It has been proven to be non corrosive and non conductive. If anyone tells you otherwise, they're flat out wrong.

I would love to see what these RS Braun monitors are. I wouldn't take a BC if it were gifted to me at this point because of the shit monitor and the now non existent rodotron/weiya chassis are hot garbage. If a true, one stop monitor replacement exists, it would be something to document for sure
 
you can always buy Nanao or Toshiba trisync chassis for cheap from yaton he has plenty of them right now
 
I think through ebay you have the possibility to exchange non working parts, I had a good experience with him so far
 
I think through ebay you have the possibility to exchange non working parts, I had a good experience with him so far
I've been dealing with Yaton for over a decade. His idea of working and most people's greatly differ. I've most recently purchased 3 "working" chassis from him. All of them arrived with issues. He doesn't offer returns typically. Usually he'll partial refund as shipping items back to China never seems to go smoothly. If you're on a hot streak with Yaton though, I might need you to purchase me some lottery tickets! :D
 
sure it's not the same as buying new parts, but I don't know if I prefer to try a Toshiba lottery or a RS NOS
 
Bit of a bump on this, forgot to update.

So it turned out the replacement CRTs were actually dual sync monitors from Namco Cyber Lead cabinets.

Apparently 2 of the cabs though still retain the original tri-sync CRT. So if the flyback failing is the problem with these is there anything I can do to mitigate against such a failure? All I can think of is calibrate the screen correctly so the 'screen' pot isn't unnecessarily high putting strain on the flyback?
 
I still have a question about the screen pot, is pushing the brightness on the chassis side not actually acting like pushing the screen pot in terms of strain ? I am still unsure if the role of the screen pot isn't just to define which is the limit of the maximum brightness.
 
Good question, I have no idea.

Is brightness on the chassis not pushing the chassis/tube where as screen pot pushes the flyback? Need some CRT experts in here.

2 pots that both adjust brightness, there must be some other reason for having the two?
 
Checking and adjusting B+ voltage is the most important thing you can do to any chassis.

I wouldn't worry about the screen pot. As long as you don't have visible retrace lines on the screen, I think you'll be fine. I've jacked the screen pot on many monitors to get adequate brightness and they're all running fine.
 
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