What's new

Darksoft

Staff member
Immortal
Joined
Jun 12, 2015
Messages
11,317
Reaction score
16,523
Location
Poland
I got this information from a user called batman2509.


He has replaced his Model 2 and Model 3 driving games with a Regular PC and he has managed to get the original Wheel working with SuperModel Emulator even with Lights and Force Feedback!!!


He wanted to keep the original case and the filter board, but actually that part is optional. You can remove all these cables and the case.


He used a teensy device for this: https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/


Sailorsat is to be thanked. She has opened a Github project where the link is available:


https://github.com/SailorSat/daytona-utils/tree/master/


This works for now with The Dashboards of Scud Race and Lemans 24, you know those with the big high voltage engine in the back of the board.


This looks an amazing project and will make everyone having a model2/3 cabinet to replace it for a regular PC and an HD Monitor. The list of suported games can only grow....


Stay tuned for more.
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20160105-WA0003.jpg
    IMG-20160105-WA0003.jpg
    604.2 KB · Views: 1,777
  • IMG-20160105-WA0004.jpg
    IMG-20160105-WA0004.jpg
    386.6 KB · Views: 1,189
  • IMG-20160105-WA0005.jpg
    IMG-20160105-WA0005.jpg
    489.3 KB · Views: 1,214
  • IMG-20160105-WA0006.jpg
    IMG-20160105-WA0006.jpg
    395.2 KB · Views: 880
Yes but... what do offer those solutions more than an A-PAC + vJoy (I find them more complex, if you accept to sacrifice FF)?
I'm actually using an arcade-like pots based wheelset on my naomi 2 as well as on my pc through it.
Windows reads up to 4 pots as 2 different standard joysticks, and then you can combine them using vJoy.
I find it to be more "plug and play" than the arduino solution (but you loose FF...).

Bye,
JKL
 
Yes but... what do offer those solutions more than an A-PAC + vJoy (I find them more complex, if you accept to sacrifice FF)?
I'm actually using an arcade-like pots based wheelset on my naomi 2 as well as on my pc through it.
Windows reads up to 4 pots as 2 different standard joysticks, and then you can combine them using vJoy.
I find it to be more "plug and play" than the arduino solution (but you loose FF...).

Bye,
JKL
Nice one! I didn't know that A-PAC with analog input....

Well In that case it's the same but just without the FFB and the LEDs.
 
I'm thinking of having a driving cabinet that can play all games, even model 3. Definitely MAME and Supermodel emulators would need such a device.
 
I'm thinking of having a driving cabinet that can play all games, even model 3. Definitely MAME and Supermodel emulators would need such a device.
It's exactly what I do with my "non-cabinet".
I started with a Dreamcast Madcatz MC2 pots based wheel, that obviously works native with (real) Dreamcast. But since it uses pots, I wired them to a DB15 port, that I can connect to my A-PAC (pc games, emulators) as well as to my JVS Type 1 I/O for real arcades.
If you're interested to control PC games with such a setup I can recommend vJOY (mandatory for games / emulators that works with just ONE joystick) and x360CE, a nice tool that allows your "standard" joysticks to be remapped and be recognized as X360pads that many games require.
 
I'm thinking of having a driving cabinet that can play all games, even model 3. Definitely MAME and Supermodel emulators would need such a device.
I think it's going to be something really usefull in the future... since MODEL 3 is prone to sudden death and graphical bugs :(
A PC based remplacement solution would be the way to go... but only if we can have FF and lights and all working...

I follow bigpanik (gamoover) for his L2M2... but i have a model 3 cab...
 
I've been following SalorSat's progress on this over on BYOAC for months... really cool stuff, apparently she's also working on Getting Model 1 equipment working as well.

As for getting arcade controls working on a PC the best solution currently is the Immersion FFB PCB.
this is a USB device that can attach to a Happ force feedback motor and the typical 5K pots used for steering and pedals. it hooks up via USB and there's a windows driver that will let your PC see it as a racing wheel.

it's the equipment that Raw Thrills uses in the Fast & The Furious games as well as the Need for Speed games.

more information on this here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135310.0.html
There's 2 versions of these, a 2-PCB setup and a 1-PCB setup, the 1-PCB version is newer and preferred as it's more compact and more reliable.

normally these boards sell for $450 a pop refurbished but there was a guy fire-saling about 50 of them on ebay recently for $35-$50 a piece: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-I...ctronic-Circuit-Boards-Made-USA-/221989456793? it couldn't hurt to contact him to see if there are any left.


I had bought 2 used 2-PCB boards from a part-out for about $150 a couple of years ago, and then when I found the eBay listing I bought 2 more 1-PCB board at the original $35 price point. I haven't used any of them yet since I ended up selling the driving cabs I was originally going to use them in.
 
ive been using the l2m2 for a while and it works well...I have a Daytona usa 2 cab with a model 2 dash , which in turn uses a l2m2 pcb and a Logitech control board...this set up works well with all games..

as I see it with a model 2 dash you have 2 options...

you can use sailorsats device when it released( haven't looked for a while) it uses the original dash and motor drive board, but is only compatible with model 2 games, not sure about model 3 games at the moment.

or use the l2m2 pcb + Logitech pcb, this way any game that uses force feedback can be used..

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uP69XKXyjXM[/media]

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=om2Knb9O9Nk[/media]

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZN6zvRqLOCc[/media]

 
as I see it with a model 2 dash you have 2 options...

you can use sailorsats device when it released( haven't looked for a while) it uses the original dash and motor drive board, but is only compatible with model 2 games, not sure about model 3 games at the moment.

or use the l2m2 pcb + Logitech pcb, this way any game that uses force feedback can be used..
Depends on what you're trying to do. Salorsat's project was to work as a perminent solution to Model 2 boards failing. She wanted to build a drop in replacement for the Model 2 PCB so that if one dies you can replace it with a cheap PC and her interface board and have it run with all the rest of the cabinet hardware as if the model 2 board was still there. This is important to the long term preservation of these machines for public use. She has an 8-seat setup all running PCs and her Model 2 interface board.

If you're looking for a multi-game setup for home use, then yeah the l2m2 is probably a better option since it offers better cross-game compatibility at the expensive of being as close to the original hardware as possible. Also the Logitech PCB isn't really a long term permanent solution, given that it's not exactly ubiquitous.
 
agree with you completely , but for any one today trying to build /convert sega style cab for multiple games then personly the l2m2 is the way to go. The more solutions the better really as tech gets old quick . If some one could interface the lindbergh to work with the l2m2 i would be all over it, i know some one has done it but with out the ffb.
 
agree with you completely , but for any one today trying to build /convert sega style cab for multiple games then personly the l2m2 is the way to go. The more solutions the better really as tech gets old quick . If some one could interface the lindbergh to work with the l2m2 i would be all over it, i know some one has done it but with out the ffb.
it's dead simple without FFB, all you need is an analog interface board of which there are many options: uHID, A-PAC, KADE stick, or you could pad-hack a controller with an analog stick or even roll your own with an arduino or other microcontroller.

steering wheel and pedal input is nothing more than 5K pots, so all you need is something to hook those pots to so the PC sees it as an analog game pad and you're done, it's literally no more challenging than hooking up joysticks or buttons. The challenge with racing games has always been with force-feedback output. since there's no real standard, most emulators don't bother attempting to emulate the force-feedback outputs, and the solution changes completely depending on your hardware.
 
I was hoping to get some guidance on what, if anything i would need to hack to get my boards working in my PC. I currently have a NFS cabinet, that has the 2 board happ steering system. I can get the wheel, buttons and pedals to be recognized in windows 7, but the axis' for the pedals are really gittery and don't do register. I've read in a few places about the single board mentioned here as well, but can't find them. I was wondering if i was maybe missing something simple in getting the 2 board version like i have functioning in a mame scenario? Thanks
 
I currently have a NFS cabinet, that has the 2 board happ steering system.
Happ doesn't make a 2-board Steering system to my knowledge and I don't believe the NFS cabinets use Happ boards.

Are you perhaps thinking of the "Immersion" FFB PCB? If so that could explain why you're having trouble finding a replacement.

Also if any of the Axis are jittery it could be a result of a bad connection somewhere or a pot on it's way out.

The Immersion PCBs are extremely expensive. They don't sell them new, but you can get a refurbed unit for $450 with a core exchange (ie: you send them your old board + $450 for a new one). Usually when people part out machines they'll sell the steering board for about $150-$200 a piece.

There was a guy who had a sockpile of about 100 of the single PCB Immersion units and was selling them on eBay for $45 a piece. I bought 2 and posted the deal up on BYOAC in the driving forum. The rest went pretty quick after that. but that was a truly abnormal deal to come up.
 
Last edited:
That makes sense, and you're right there, I'm getting my names mixed up. It does have the immersion symbol on the board. I sent that seller a message hoping he has 1 laying around, but i'm sure my chances are slim. It works perfect under the NFS game currently, just recently started down the road of making it mame based to play a few other games and that's when i ran into the config / setup issue. I was hoping there was a way to get this going without spending that much from Happ. Really appreciate the quick response!
 
I have 4 of these boards, 2 of the 2-board units that I bought used from someone parting out a machine and then the 2 of the 1-board unit that I bought at the auction.

I plan to use all 4 once I get around to actually building my driving cab setup but I've yet to run any of them beyond just plugging them in and seeing that they're recognized.

you might have better luck posting up on BYOAC, there's quite a few people who are running these boards. IMO this is still the best solution for proper arcade quality force-feedback in windows.

Honestly I don't think you need to use it as your input device if you don't want to. Nothing says you can't use a KADE board or A-PAC or whatever for your analog inputs and then just use the Immersion PCB for force feedback output.
 
I have 4 of these boards, 2 of the 2-board units that I bought used from someone parting out a machine and then the 2 of the 1-board unit that I bought at the auction.

I plan to use all 4 once I get around to actually building my driving cab setup but I've yet to run any of them beyond just plugging them in and seeing that they're recognized.

you might have better luck posting up on BYOAC, there's quite a few people who are running these boards. IMO this is still the best solution for proper arcade quality force-feedback in windows.

Honestly I don't think you need to use it as your input device if you don't want to. Nothing says you can't use a KADE board or A-PAC or whatever for your analog inputs and then just use the Immersion PCB for force feedback output.
I must be missing something small then. I'll keep at it, i was hoping to find a solution without have to cut into the harnesses. I'm assuming that would have to be done with the A-PAC or anything other than the original boards?
 
Back
Top