- Thread starter Hatsune Mike
- Start date
Hatsune Mike
Champion
I'm one manufacture/assembly question with the factory away from placing another batch order, which will be available in a storefront. People who are on the list will get first access to it, with it going public not long after, so that people who posted earlier can get a chance at it. It's finally happening.
This will be a third revision, with no noteworthy changes other than a tiny modification for easier manufacture.
This will be a third revision, with no noteworthy changes other than a tiny modification for easier manufacture.
Pumped!! Congrats on getting the storefront put together! 
Any kind of ETA on when you think you might be ready to put the VS kits on the store? I remember you mentioning somewhere that you definitely wanted to work through the splitfire interest first and foremost- are there any other design changes that need to happen to the VS boards for production as well, etc?
Any kind of ETA on when you think you might be ready to put the VS kits on the store? I remember you mentioning somewhere that you definitely wanted to work through the splitfire interest first and foremost- are there any other design changes that need to happen to the VS boards for production as well, etc?
mugen_ketsueki
Professional
Add me to the list as well!
jimbodeanny
Student
Just sent a message to Mike, but thought I'd post this in here in case anyone else has thoughts on this.
I've been using your Splitfire for my arcade streams for well over a year now and it's been working great for the bulk of my games. (I use it as a portable capture/stream setup. You may have seen my video on this. See below.)
View: https://youtu.be/BP37TB-6Oug
I was wondering if anyone else has had issues with Nintendo PCBs that use an inverted signal? I'm particularly trying to find a solution for my Super Punch-Out. The issue doesn't really appear to be the Nintendo PCBs or even the inverted signal, but rather an issue with the Sanyo arcade monitors (that many Nintendo games use) in general. For instance, on my Red Tent, I have one Sharp montor and one Sanyo in it. I don't have this issue when using a Sharp monitor. Only the Sanyo monitors.
I've been able to make my Red Tent work with the Splitfire by using an inverter to make it a "normal" signal before it hits the Splitfire (this has to be done because my capture device(s) don't respond well to receiving an inverted signal), and then use a second inverter to re-invert the signal before it enters the monitor. This seems to work fine with my Sharp monitor, but the Sanyo monitor in it, and other games that use the Sanyo monitors (such as my Super Punch-Out) have slight issues with it. I've noticed that when the signal gets re-inverted and sent to the monitor, the image is a bit darker. It almost appears as if the brightness and/or RGB cutoff values are a bit too low. I can't quite figure out why this is and why it open seems to happen with the Sanyo monitors.
Here's a photo of the Sanyo monitor in my Super Punch-Out as it normally looks.
And here's what it looks like after it runs through the Splitfire. (The signal comes out of the cabinet from the PCB, has been inverted to a "normal" signal, runs through the Splitfire, goes to my capture rig and then comes out of the splitfire, gets re-inverted to an "inverted" signal and enters the monitor. )
Here's also an image of what the capture feed looks like.
It looks spot on, so it's only an issue with the signal to the Sanyo monitor.
I've been trying to find some sort of amplifier I could add that would give me control over the brightness/contrast and possibly RGB cuttoff values. Any ideas or thoughts?
Is there maybe a version of the Splitfire that could be designed/modded to be used with Nintendo PCBs?
Thanks!
-James
I've been using your Splitfire for my arcade streams for well over a year now and it's been working great for the bulk of my games. (I use it as a portable capture/stream setup. You may have seen my video on this. See below.)
I was wondering if anyone else has had issues with Nintendo PCBs that use an inverted signal? I'm particularly trying to find a solution for my Super Punch-Out. The issue doesn't really appear to be the Nintendo PCBs or even the inverted signal, but rather an issue with the Sanyo arcade monitors (that many Nintendo games use) in general. For instance, on my Red Tent, I have one Sharp montor and one Sanyo in it. I don't have this issue when using a Sharp monitor. Only the Sanyo monitors.
I've been able to make my Red Tent work with the Splitfire by using an inverter to make it a "normal" signal before it hits the Splitfire (this has to be done because my capture device(s) don't respond well to receiving an inverted signal), and then use a second inverter to re-invert the signal before it enters the monitor. This seems to work fine with my Sharp monitor, but the Sanyo monitor in it, and other games that use the Sanyo monitors (such as my Super Punch-Out) have slight issues with it. I've noticed that when the signal gets re-inverted and sent to the monitor, the image is a bit darker. It almost appears as if the brightness and/or RGB cutoff values are a bit too low. I can't quite figure out why this is and why it open seems to happen with the Sanyo monitors.
Here's a photo of the Sanyo monitor in my Super Punch-Out as it normally looks.
And here's what it looks like after it runs through the Splitfire. (The signal comes out of the cabinet from the PCB, has been inverted to a "normal" signal, runs through the Splitfire, goes to my capture rig and then comes out of the splitfire, gets re-inverted to an "inverted" signal and enters the monitor. )
Here's also an image of what the capture feed looks like.
It looks spot on, so it's only an issue with the signal to the Sanyo monitor.
I've been trying to find some sort of amplifier I could add that would give me control over the brightness/contrast and possibly RGB cuttoff values. Any ideas or thoughts?
Is there maybe a version of the Splitfire that could be designed/modded to be used with Nintendo PCBs?
Thanks!
-James
DelsArcade
Enthusiast
Looking to buy one as well. Can you put me on the list for the next batch please?
Thanks in advance!
Del
Thanks in advance!
Del
ChrisBEANS
Professional
This looks awesome! Literally joined here for this product!!
I’m definitely in for one.
Am I right in thinking this wouldn’t work with a four slot MVS cabinet?
I’m definitely in for one.
Am I right in thinking this wouldn’t work with a four slot MVS cabinet?
ChrisBEANS
Professional
I’m a total noob on this, but in addition to differences with the audio output, wouldn’t there be some loss of functionality too?
i.e. differences in button functionality? (In particular, game select button?)
I already have an adapter to use JAMMA boards on the MVS cab, but can it be as simple as another adapter to attach the four slot to the Splitfire?
So, four slot -> MVS to JAMMA adapter -> Splitfire -> JAMMA to MVS adapter -> cab?
can it be that straightforward??
(sorry for the slight derail, I’m learning as I go...)
EDIT: I just found an MVS multi slot to JAMMA adapter, so now I have that too, I guess the above configuration should work??
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Just curious about about the wait list. Iv been waiting over a year so just curious if I'm still on it at least.
There was a list here on previous post https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/nac-splitfire-jamma-streaming-solution.7200/post-244003
Check your unread messages.
As long as you got Pin 26 on your Jamma Edge wired up you won't lose functionality.
See the I/O chart. Luke Morse also did a video on this topic.
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ChrisBEANS
Professional
Ah! I see!! Thanks!
(Can’t watch the video until later, so if this is covered I really apologise!!... but...) Isn’t that reliant on the Everything else using pin 26 as a straight pass through then?
pin 26 on the diagram is unused in the JAMMA standard, so while it makes sense that it’ll be included on the ‘MVS to JAMMA’ adapter, in my example above (MVS -> JAMMA adapter -> Splitfire -> JAMMA to MVS adapter -> MVS cab) it seems there’s no need for it to be wired to anything on the Splitfire (understandably as it’s aimed at JAMMA), and no need at all for it to be used on the JAMMA to MVS adapter as normally there wouldn’t be anything on a JAMMA cab with that function.
(Again, sorry if I’m being a bit thick, I’m trying to learn rather than to just ask for solutions when I get stuck!!)
(Can’t watch the video until later, so if this is covered I really apologise!!... but...) Isn’t that reliant on the Everything else using pin 26 as a straight pass through then?
pin 26 on the diagram is unused in the JAMMA standard, so while it makes sense that it’ll be included on the ‘MVS to JAMMA’ adapter, in my example above (MVS -> JAMMA adapter -> Splitfire -> JAMMA to MVS adapter -> MVS cab) it seems there’s no need for it to be wired to anything on the Splitfire (understandably as it’s aimed at JAMMA), and no need at all for it to be used on the JAMMA to MVS adapter as normally there wouldn’t be anything on a JAMMA cab with that function.
(Again, sorry if I’m being a bit thick, I’m trying to learn rather than to just ask for solutions when I get stuck!!)
