Taiko no Tatsujin setup help

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    • Taiko no Tatsujin setup help

      I need help buying the right I/O board that can make it run since I have the Taiko 10 DVD and dongle? Also, I have the Taiko Force Lv5 drum (Replica arcade size drum made for consoles) that I bought from Taobao, I'm wondering if it's straight forward to wire it to the board?

      PS: I'm not really skilled in electronics

      Taiko Force Lv5


      Back


      Shock sensors circled (There are two more on the face but I cannot get a good angle)


      The connector from the shock sensors


      Pin out from the creator of the drum
    • You need both the SIF PCB and the IO. Both are NLA through Namco, and I've checked with just about every major arcade distributor and retailer in the English speaking world as well as all the big players in Japan. They're simply not available to purchase.

      I haven't seen one to purchase on YAJ outside of a cab in about three years now. Not since I bought my two NOS drums and couldn't afford to snag the PCBs as well. I've had search alerts on ebay for not only Taiko but the exact PCB model numbers just as long, with zero hits.

      Your options are pretty much either buy a whole cab for them, or luck into someone parting one out for whatever reason. Or build your own. A few people have gone that route and found success but refuse to share their information.

      I know that isn't helpful really, but it's the reality of the Taiko situation as it stands.

      If by the grace of God you find a source for either of these parts, let me know too. I've been searching way too long.
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, Grand Am Q25, Capcom New Concept 2, and Naomi guncabs.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by rewrite ().

    • Woah I didn't know you could buy such a drum for home/diy setups....

      The past few weeks we have been studying the I/O requirements for other SYS2X6 games and how to patch certain games to work with common i/o boards, but now Taiko series is even more on my radar as there is a solution for the drum :D
    • I attempted to wire up a PlayStation 2 Taiko drum to a Sega I/O a while back (and buttons before that), but hit a brick wall with the build. Here are some forum links for what I came up with, if anyone finds this helpful. I'm definitely hoping someone can figure out a solution to get these games to work one day.

      The i/o pinout that I was able to figure out:
      Help buying the right 256 stuff

      Some wiring diagram links can be found here:
      S-JIHP: Sega JVS I/O Helper PCB
    • New

      nem wrote:

      It leeches power from the jamma connector. Most likely it just needs 5V. Power draw is something negligible.

      You know you can't power the 256 through it?
      Yeah I know.

      I actually meant to say how to power the namco 256 and the jamma. The power supply I have right now is a switching power supply.

      By the way, I saw someone on twitter use a terminal block to power both and it works. Is that safe to do?
    • New

      PSU looks fine.

      Since it has screw in terminals, you don't need a terminal block.

      Here's what you need:

      Crimp on fork or ring shaped terminals (.17" should be fine),
      18 AWG wire, preferably in three colours: red, yellow, black
      56 pin jamma edge connector
      One 6 pin VHR-6N connector + 6 pcs SVH-41T-P1.1 contacts
      Heat shrink tube
      Soldering iron
      Crimping tool. Pliers will also suffice

      Red wire is for +5V, yellow for +12V and black is for ground

      Jamma pinout is here: wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/JAMMA#Jamma_connector_pinout
      System 2X6 power connector pinout is here: wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Namco_system_256#Connectors

      Here's how I would do it:

      Cut one black and one red wire to same length (at least 1' long). Solder one black wire to all four ground connector pins and one red wire to all four 5V connector pins on the jamma connector (this isn't usually recommended, but power draw on the IO is very minimal. One wire each will be fine). Put shrink tubing over the exposed contacts. Crimp your fork or ring terminals to the other ends.

      Cut two red, one yellow and three black wires to same length (again, at least 1' long). Crimp your six JST contacts on each end. Put them into the plastic housing in the correct order. Crimp one fork or ring terminal to both red wires (twist tie them together), one terminal to yellow and two terminals to black (one terminal has one black wire, the other two).

      Altogether you should now have two red, one yellow and three black wires with terminals on them to put under the screw in terminals on the PSU.