Monitor was working fine this weekend, moved the monitor control board to the control panel was still working fine, then a few hours later the tube became dim and picture had widened a bit. Power cycled now the monitor just clicks every second and nothing happens. Seen a few threads on this and seems that people gave up and called the chassis a piece of junk. I know this monitor has a bad rep, anything I could do with minimal experience with monitors or should I attempt a full replacement?
Clicking is usually a tell tale sign that the HOT went.
Only good place for a 3129 is in the junk, really...
If it works then it is good, but once they don't work anymore not a single repair tech I contacted is willing to touch them.
Trust me, been there, done that
Even a 3129 I bough brand new arrived broken!, but was able to fix that one myself as it was a burnt out diode near the power supply, when I turned off the light and looked at the chassis I could clearly identify the defective component as it was glowing/sparking.
Also ask my buddy @Sp33dFr34k, he has had his share of Wei-Ya chassis' as well
But on the other hand, which cab/monitor do you have, perhaps it is an easy swap?
True, mine arrived broken as well. Replaced the vertical IC after a diagnosis from grantspain. Little while after that it failed again, nobody wants to repair it so it sits in the closet until eternity. None of this is of use to you, except for the fact that I would go for a replacement if I were you...
Clicking is indicating high-voltage shutdown. It can be caused by a few things but usually a short in the HV section (when HOTs fail they short internally). Bad fly can cause it as well as caps which usually short when they fail.
You can usually test the hot by doing continuity test on your multimeter and placing one probe on the middle pin of the hot and the other on ground.
More modern monitors use ICs to replace certain circuits and they are more likely to fail than, say, a resistor or diode.
And oh yeah, always look for cold solder. The HV section is more susceptible to this. I fixed a monitor from a Neo 4-slot candy cab by reflowing a ton of cold solder.
mine is doing the same. I am quite sure I plugged in a not working motherboard and this create the problem
I will post here update if I will be able to fix it.
I have already replaced one big diode UF5408 which was faulty
I think I have to replace even the tda1675a and maybe the fly
Please be kind to post any update if you have!