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I dunno. I got some pcbs shipped to me with this black foam that was very rigid.

Another solution could be to find the post you cut and glue it back in minus the amount needed to support the PCB. Though I would pad between the pcb and the post.
 
Looks like your monitor needs adjustment or if not, I've had too much green as an issue on a board that hasn't been completely suicided. Try shorting EXC5 and see if that helps.

Too dark is definitely monitor adjustment. I'd say that's all it is for the colours too.
 
PALG also needs to be connected to J17.
On Rev 6? I would've thought it had the factory fix for Pal G, he said it came with a PAL G too. Can't hurt though.
when I lift pin 9 and jump it to j17, the game wont boot and the screen is garbled artifacts. removing the j17 jumper boots the game, but no audio. I have a Rev 6 as well, but mine had a PAL F and afaict, it's the original. I'm using a burned PAL G from hSS. I think some of the confusion comes from all of the different install instructions at certain years. @Mitsurugi-w his install/ B board prepare video from 2015 states he's not sure about PAL G and J17, but the instructions found at highscoresaves say 5th rev and above doesn't need to be lifted or jumped to j17 at all but there is no publish year. Then here on the forums Darksoft says pal g must be connected to j17. so many different instructions from different years and kit revisions, is there a more centralized or updated version we should be following? (I of course follow all of darksoft's instructions, they are just scattered through out the forums)
I'm also hearing we don't need to do the JP 1 - 29 short/open mod either as 'they don't affect the multi.'
anyway, long story short, I don't have any audio.
 
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On Rev 6/7 and possibly 5, you don't need to install the PAL jumper IF you're using a G PAL. That's for rev 3/4 only.

If you're using an F PAL, you need to install a jumper wire, but it's different to the G PAL wire.

Tl;dr If you're on a rev 6 board and you bought a G PAL, just install the PAL, no jumper.
 
On Rev 6/7 and possibly 5, you don't need to install the PAL jumper IF you're using a G PAL. That's for rev 3/4 only.

If you're using an F PAL, you need to install a jumper wire, but it's different to the G PAL wire.

Tl;dr If you're on a rev 6 board and you bought a G PAL, just install the PAL, no jumper.
So I had it right the first time before i tried to lift pin 9, but I still have no sound. no jumper, no lifted pin. my jp 1-29 are set correctly, multi verified.
 
No sound at all? Try resetting the volume (hold down volume up and down while powering on) and then use the volume up control on the A board to increase volume
 
Done and no change, still quiet. Bit of important info - I'm using the CPS I/O because I don't have a supergun yet but afaik it shouldn't interfere with normal operations? I'm testing the audio through the on-board phono and via hdmi. Neither the I/O helper board vol +/- nor the A board vol+/- seems to do anything. (except the A board adds scanlines and adjusts the overscan, which is expected)
 
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I don't doubt the possibility, but the person I bought it from sent a timestamped video with the sound working fine before I bought it. I've also done a sound chip test with multiple games and it all comes back OK, even though I don't hear anything. Ill keep looking though, I'm sure I messed something up somewhere.
 
It really sounds to me like the volume needs a reset.

My apologies I got that wrong too: hold down Volume Down while powering on until the splash screen comes up.

Edit: wait! I just saw you're using the stereo outputs!

You need to go into the service menu and change output from mono (JAMMA) to stereo (RCA)
 
damn, I thought that was it. its defaulted to qsound stereo. Im going to test my helper board next, its strange that the test switch works, but Service and vol +/- don't do anything.
 
Which helper board are you using? Does it have audio breakouts? You might need to set the board to mono instead of stereo so it outputs over the JAMMA edge?
 
I've had a lot of motherboards where the buttons stopped working. To fix them I put tiny dabs of flux on the button feet and then reflowed them all with a little more solder. then i used flux remover to clean off the PCB. Finally, put drops of 99% alcohol directly into the button and rapid fire press about 100 times.
 
It's not outputting the sound over the HDMI and bypassing the onboard RCAs is it? Do you have the HDMI connected to a device with sound or a monitor without speakers?
 
It's not outputting the sound over the HDMI and bypassing the onboard RCAs is it? Do you have the HDMI connected to a device with sound or a monitor without speakers?
Yes. my monitor has it's own speakers at 100%. I'm also using rca- 3.5mm to eliminate any speaker issues and its also the only set I have that is guaranteed to work unpowered. The CPS2 AV sits on top of the chips and afaict, its passive and doesn't disable the normal functions of the board. Just in case it does, I disconnected power to the AV board and still same issue. I believe the cps I/O doesn't impede any outputs on the jamma edge, but I'm not certain. I would test that, but the I/O is all I have atm.
 
I've had a lot of motherboards where the buttons stopped working. To fix them I put tiny dabs of flux on the button feet and then reflowed them all with a little more solder. then i used flux remover to clean off the PCB. Finally, put drops of 99% alcohol directly into the button and rapid fire press about 100 times.
I know the ones on the board are good, i can access and change volume in the system menu without issue. i will try reflowing the tact switches on the cps i/o tomorrow.
 
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