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Did an install today for @dexster

Smooth as silk, used the included short LCD ribbon cable to test, all good.

He had purchased the longer cable from @CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES so we put that in to finish it off once we had confirmed it worked with the shorter stock cable (just easier to test with the short cable).

Long story short, the longer cable didn't work and is wired backwards. Is this common?
They are made by hand so human error can occur. You should be able to carefully remove and re-crimp one connector.
 
Did an install today for @dexster

Smooth as silk, used the included short LCD ribbon cable to test, all good.

He had purchased the longer cable from @CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES so we put that in to finish it off once we had confirmed it worked with the shorter stock cable (just easier to test with the short cable).

Long story short, the longer cable didn't work and is wired backwards. Is this common?
Definitely not usual. Where did you buy from?
 
Did an install today for @dexster

Smooth as silk, used the included short LCD ribbon cable to test, all good.

He had purchased the longer cable from @CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES so we put that in to finish it off once we had confirmed it worked with the shorter stock cable (just easier to test with the short cable).

Long story short, the longer cable didn't work and is wired backwards. Is this common?
Write me an email at ordini@saveyourgames.it
 
Hey guys, apologies for the hijack (seemed like the best thread to do so).

Purchased a CPSII kit way back in July 2015 (so it's the old one that required SWD port changes, etc.). Well I didn't get around to working on it till last winter...and tried to "roll-up" all the auto-loading, decryption, etc. changes that had been added since the first few runs. I meticulously went through all the instructions (particularly using the "Instructions_CPS2_Multi_Boot_v3.1.pdf" doc) and though when I fired it up the LCD showed everything boot correctly/change...nothing played or showed up on my monitor (just a hazy green/gray screen if I remember correctly).

Long story short, time is a resource I do not currently have so I'm looking for anyone I can ship everything to to get this up-to-date and working 100%. I have monies :) Hope someone is out there.

PM me or email miscdebris88@gmail.com. Thanks!!! -Keith

*on KLOV as "voltron88x"
 

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@Darksoft is there a method for connecting the multi to a dynamic marquee so we can see the art when browsing games? I'm sure if it could be done it would've been done by now but I was curious to know if it was possible at all?
 
@Darksoft is there a method for connecting the multi to a dynamic marquee so we can see the art when browsing games? I'm sure if it could be done it would've been done by now but I was curious to know if it was possible at all?
Nothing like that was even considered, so in short, I dont see that happening.
 
@voltron88x I got your message but could not respond because the convo was closed by you. PMe again when you can.
 
just did my second DS kit install tonight on a Jap 1944 Loopmaster worked first time! I remembered the jumper trick (ensure each pair of jumpers has one closed one open) and it worked, without really following the jumper guide outlined in the PDF install notes. This CPS2 board had a much nicer/cleaner case and a fresher PCB than my other, so I'll sell that one sometime.
 
Hi guys
I cant seem to get the kit to work when the case is completely screwed shut. one side seems to have to be a bit too tall. I have filed off the plastic standoff yet every time i close the case the game boots to a white or black screen or maybe jailbars. When I remove the case everything goes back to working fine.
Any body got any tips on what i need to do
 
The LCD selector screen cable will be getting in the way. It can sit both ways but only one will let you shut the case properly.

Fold it over the opposite way to whichever way you have it now and it should be more flat.
 
The LCD selector screen cable will be getting in the way. It can sit both ways but only one will let you shut the case properly.

Fold it over the opposite way to whichever way you have it now and it should be more flat.
So I tried that no luck. Tried completely disconnecting the cable and removing it from the case and I still had the same problem, The right side of the case would not close completely. After trying another case the problem went away.
Thanks for the assistance in any case
 
Hi guys

installed my second CPS2 kit today
no hikkuos
tho i did use the stock PAL3 (revision4) pin 9 to J17

games load fine
but its like the forground and some sprites are missing :S
ive checked all sockets and all pins are seated nicely
games run ok apart from the missing gfp/sprites

anyone any ideas please

thanks

dave
 
Here are a couple of pics
Are the blobs right
I followed The install pdf and the youtube from a year ago

thanks
 

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The LCD selector screen cable will be getting in the way. It can sit both ways but only one will let you shut the case properly.

Fold it over the opposite way to whichever way you have it now and it should be more flat.
So I tried that no luck. Tried completely disconnecting the cable and removing it from the case and I still had the same problem, The right side of the case would not close completely. After trying another case the problem went away.Thanks for the assistance in any case
The 4 screws/pegs that secure the b-board pcb might not be holding it as tightly as the other case. Sometimes those pegs get broken off as well.This allows it to flex when mating with the A-board resulting in a bad connection.
 
Hi all, I'm having trouble with my CPS2 Multi Kit which I just purchased from highscoresaves. The LCD shows that the games are loading and the keys are being written. Then it gives me the "Have fun" message. Initially, the screen would turn black while flashing, and then it would turn green. Now the screen just stays green while flashing. The only change I can get is when I thoroughly discharge the EXC5, the screen will turn blue. Then when I power cycle the machine, it goes back to green. Let me start by saying that I have thoroughly searched through every thread I can find about the subject and watched every video I can find. I have tried every possible solution that I have found. I have also meticulously gone through the install instructions and the Definitive Guide to Fixing the CPS2 Multi Kit. I really don't want to have to send this thing off to be looked at or repaired, but it seems like that is going to be the only option. Here is the process that I have gone through.



I started with working A and B boards and I removed the battery and all of the socketed chips. The B board is a revision 7 and had a PAL G installed on it.

Discharged EXC5 as well as CCI.

Installed key writing wires and used the encrypted rom set from arcade projects roll up pack.

Checked multiple times that key writing wires installed correctly.

Removed the key writing wires (pads look good and intact), used decrypted rom set from Avalaunch.

Checked all pins on kit, none bent, all making contact with board below. Verified with multi meter.

Checked multiple times to make sure interconnect board installed correctly. (RU symbol toward the left or JAMMA connection).

Removed and reseated the kit several times.

Tried 3 different SD cards formatted FAT32 and copying all files in one action using Windows 10 machine. 8GB Sandisk which came with the kit, 16GB Sandisk Ultra and 32GB Sandisk Ultra.

Re-intalled firmware on kit.

Not using a MAC.

Tried installing the boards back into case and using clips to hold the cases together.

Tried switching out the PALG with one that I ordered with the kit.

Checked all dip switches for connection and verified with multi meter continuity. All dip switches are set correctly according to the guide.



The only thing I can think of is that either the kit did not work from the get go, or I damaged on of the surface mount components when installing the key writing wires or the A or B board has stopped working.



Here are some photos of the installation. Also I tried using the suicide game board testor rom file burned onto an eprom which gave me the status screen pictured below with the exception of the SOUND INIT being BAD. I assumed it was bad because eproms 1 and 2 were not installed. Would this indicate that the A and B board were functioning correctly?



Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 

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