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And those through holes should beep with continuity to those 2 pins
 
May I have a visual aid?

@xodaraP Sure, this should clear things up:
IMG_20190805_121612.jpg
 
I'll draw a better one when I can do it with a mouse rather than my inaccurate index finger
 
Well I’m stuck. Switched the CLOCK and DATA wires back but still a white screen. My multimeter probes are pretty sharp, but testing connectivity with individual FPGA pins is beyond my skill level. At this point I just want to pay to ship the whole thing to someone for repair...

By the way, my recently purchased LCD display from HighScoreSaves doesn’t fit in the CPS2 multi housing from Bit District! Does anyone know if this is a temporary issue or if the LCDs have changed permanently? Thanks again!
946C786D-000A-4A4E-B2B3-C06C6A65A616.jpeg
 
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You're in the US so @Mitsurugi-w is your man to repair it.

Given you've lost pads I'd suggest that your connections aren't there and you will need them jumpered.
 
I have finally gotten around to putting my multi inside a CPS2 case.
However I am getting jailbars on the graphics when I mount it in the CPS2 case.
The reason for this is removal of the support bar from the case to fit the multi PCB.

Anyone have an idea how I can solve this in the simplest manner ?

Symptom

a.jpg


Post removal

b.jpg


This point does not get enough pressure.

c.jpg
 
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I have finally gotten around to putting my multi inside a CPS2 case.
However I am getting jailbars on the graphics when I mount it in the CPS2 case.
The reason for this is removal of the support bar from the case to fit the multi PCB.

Anyone have an idea how I can solve this in the simplest manner ?
so do the jailbars happen if you seat the kit without a plastic case? I would recommend just reseating the entire multi board and then reseating the entire B board onto the A board. The jailbars are typical of a bad connection between A and B boards. also, is it every game and exactly the same? if so you know that it's not a ROM/Multi issue.
 
All is good if I press down hard on the PCB when the lid is not present.

The moment I but everything inside the case the PCB will flex since the support bracket has been removed.

I need a simple way to reintroduce the support bracket.
 
Do you have the metal clips that hold A and B boards together?

The lack of support post there shouldn't matter, but when using the shell you may need those clips
 
I have the clips, tried with them same issue.
 
Before this cart became a multi it was working 100%.

How to reproduce:
. Assemble the cart but leave out the screws
. Mount the cart on the A board
. I get jailbars
. I pop of the top lid
. I can see that the section which does not have the support anymore is not inserted fully
. I press down with my thumb
. All is good

So I need a way to reintroduce the support bar which has been removed again.
 
The support bar is removed because the multi takes up that space. You could try taping a piece of folded up paper? Or something non conductive.
 
Ghetto fix: stack pennies and use a bunch of hot glue? 8o

(Don't leave the penny exposed where it will come directly in contact with the PCB)
 
This calls for silly putty
 
I had a similar issue with one I installed, the joints on the IDC connectors are old and not making the best contact. Some of the pins may be dirty too.

I solved it by reseating the board a couple of times and found that holding it down worked, but so did pulling it out slightly. It was still firmly held in but not shoved down as far as it would go.
 
The stack has to reach the lid, and it has to be rigid.

Hmm, LEGO, a PCB leg with a long screw...
 
Some pcbs will give you fits because the support is gone. I've used hard foam to stcack inside to add support. Whatever you use has to be rigid and not give way when pressed.
 
Some pcbs will give you fits because the support is gone. I've used hard foam to stcack inside to add support. Whatever you use has to be rigid and not give way when pressed.
Good solution, what do you define as "hard foam" ?
 
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