Pinned The Definitive Guide to Fixing Your CPS2 Multi Kit

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    • Installation looks good. Did you check the potentiometer to regulate the LCD contrast? Make sure it's not that.

      If that's working well, I'd try to get it first working with a game without injecting keys. Don't install the wires and try to run a Team Avalaunch game. If that works, then you are on the good track.
      * Arcade-projects, the site where you get the most of your arcade games.
      * If you want Drama go to Neo-Geo forum ---Darksoft
    • Before I start another troubleshooting thread I wanna ask- am I doing this right? I have rev 3 and it apears to be PAL F. I pulled pin 7 to wired it to j17, checked my continiuty. In every game Im getting the goofy sound effects in addition to normal sound. Is there something else Im supposed to do on this?
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    • piscian18 wrote:

      Before I start another troubleshooting thread I wanna ask- am I doing this right? I have rev 3 and it apears to be PAL F. I pulled pin 7 to wired it to j17, checked my continiuty. In every game Im getting the goofy sound effects in addition to normal sound. Is there something else Im supposed to do on this?
      Did you check the jumpers to make sure there is double continuity? I don't remember now, but as this is a Rev.3 you may need a PALG.

      @Mitsurugi-w will know better.
      * Arcade-projects, the site where you get the most of your arcade games.
      * If you want Drama go to Neo-Geo forum ---Darksoft
    • Darksoft wrote:

      piscian18 wrote:

      Before I start another troubleshooting thread I wanna ask- am I doing this right? I have rev 3 and it apears to be PAL F. I pulled pin 7 to wired it to j17, checked my continiuty. In every game Im getting the goofy sound effects in addition to normal sound. Is there something else Im supposed to do on this?
      Did you check the jumpers to make sure there is double continuity? I don't remember now, but as this is a Rev.3 you may need a PALG.
      @Mitsurugi-w will know better.
      Double continuity? Not sure what you mean. Which jumpers? If you mean J17 on the board? its currently open per Wals video. If you mean did I check continuity both directions yeah its solid.

      I do have one of the GAL chips I coould switch to, having issues, but Im not sure if Im setting it up right either. I even went ahead and redid the connection using the jumper method, but no dice the sounds still messed up. You think I should PM mit or start a new thread?


      AAAHHAAA I thoroughly went through the jumpers again and found a couple that had a tiny micro short where they were supposed to be open, sliced it up and now sound is perfect. UUGh Im finally done with this thing. I did that based on a really old thread where some dude on a Rev 7 Gpal had the same issue. Idk I think Id suggest changing the instructions to just match wals video on jumpers, though I know Im on a early rev reallly old machine so part of it is my fault. Thanks! This is a dream come true! Yeah PAL F on Rev 3 with pin 7 up-J17 is correct per instructions.

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      The post was edited 3 times, last by piscian18 ().

    • So I'm getting a blank screen on boot.
      buddy sent this to me after hi lifted the data pad on the main board.
      I went back and routed the wire back to the surface mount chip and i've verified that there's no shorts and that continuity is good.

      When I try to flash a game, it behaves as it should, but goes back to a one color screen.
      board was originally a MvC so it should be fine. I've verified jumpers and the board has a G Pal installed.
      I've tested on 2 A boards and transferred the kit over to a converted revision 4 board with no change.
      What should I look at?
    • @bartre I linked you here because all the troubleshooting info is in the 1st post, sorry if the link brought you to the end instead. give those a shot

      The Definitive Guide to Fixing Your CPS2 Multi Kit
      multis: cps* ttx1/2 gnet f3 mvs sega st-v/16b/24/c2/naomi(netboot) sys2x6 m72
      cabs: sega blast city x2 | taito vewlix c + egret ii
      links: klov/vaps games list | custom fight sticks
      projects: re2 stuff, back to conversions
    • hey man,
      sorry, should have mentioned what of those steps I have tried.
      here's the area-
      imgur.com/2qGSyUs

      - EXC5 may need to be temporarily shorted to remove keys that have not been flushed - shorted as remove the cap and link with wire then boot?
      - Broken pins on multi kit - I checked when I removed the kit, no bends
      - Interconnect board not installed the correct way - see pic
      - Key writing wires are not installed correctly - see pic for install, also tested without wires installed in any way
      - Correct firmware has not been installed onto multi kit - unknown how to check that, it was a recent order
      - Correct ROM pack is not installed on the SD card - using CPS2 Roll-Up Base Pack 2019-09-18 from the thread here
      - SD card is bad - tested with 3 cards, 2 of which were previously used on everdrives
      - Mac only: You have not run dot_clean to remove the indexing files - built using windows
    • Shorting exc5 is just bridging all the pins with a large flathead screwdriver for a few seconds.

      I’d say your interconnect board needs to be seated lower, but you could photo it from the side and we’d probably be able to confirm!

      Another way to know if everything is fine, except for the key writing wires, is to load up one of the back roms in the rompacks. Those use blank keys so it should boot no matter if they were soldered right or not. Once one of those boots, if you’re still having trouble with the rest then you may have to revisit the key-writing wires.
      multis: cps* ttx1/2 gnet f3 mvs sega st-v/16b/24/c2/naomi(netboot) sys2x6 m72
      cabs: sega blast city x2 | taito vewlix c + egret ii
      links: klov/vaps games list | custom fight sticks
      projects: re2 stuff, back to conversions
    • Verify your b board is tightly sealed to the A board

      when shorting exc5 chip actually take a wire/metal screwdriver and touch it to all 3 pins and hold it for 30 seconds to drain the cap. machine must be powered off while doing that.

      "MVC unlocked" in the pack should be keyless.

      When you write firmware does the solid color change to black screen then back to solid, or there never any change? if it doesnt change you might have a connection issue either between the a/b board or possibly the interconnect.
    • The passives are the other little components on the board, like smd capacitors, resistors, diodes. Maybe a close up photo of the key writing wires...

      Honestly I still have my $5 on the interconnect board being seated too high... got a photo from the side?
      multis: cps* ttx1/2 gnet f3 mvs sega st-v/16b/24/c2/naomi(netboot) sys2x6 m72
      cabs: sega blast city x2 | taito vewlix c + egret ii
      links: klov/vaps games list | custom fight sticks
      projects: re2 stuff, back to conversions