Monitor replacement help on blast city + windy2

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    • Monitor replacement help on blast city + windy2

      ok my windy I got from a recent group buy probably has horrible burn.

      But my good friend has some monitors for me to choose from

      A68KSM696X - no chassis
      A68KSM696X - no chassis
      A68KSM696X - 31k only chassis
      73SX707YZ2 - sanwa chassis

      I have a 2931 chassis and if I replace the blast I have a 2930.

      Can ether of these monitors work in ether cab and work. I think the 73SX707YZ2 is v ga only but can it be converted to 15hz also?
      My cabs: 2×Blast City/Egret 2/Egret 3/Windy 2/Crownin 203/ Tmnt/ Centipede upright+cocktail/ Space Invaders cocktail/Neogeo 4+6 slot BigRed/ Area51/ 2×mk3/ BigGuns Pinball/ Dkjr
    • Just be aware that IF you swap out the Blast City monitor you will need to use a trick I learned from Roger/300Wins called "backmounting"
      This is where you'll recycle the original Sega monitor frame from the 2930 tube, but rather then mount the new tube the same way...
      You'll use longer bolts to mount the tube behind/to the backside of the frame at a depth you will need to determine via trial and error.

      Otherwise when you go to put it back together the bezel will be pop'd out due to the extra thickness of the swapped tube.
      Darksoft/Apocalypse: CPS2, CPS3, F3-β, MVS, S16-β
      RGB: RECO v2
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24, Namco System 11/12 KHA
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special HAS Edition)
    • jassin000 wrote:

      Just be aware that IF you swap out the Blast City monitor you will need to use a trick I learned from Roger/300Wins called "backmounting"
      This is where you'll recycle the original Sega monitor frame from the 2930 tube, but rather then mount the new tube the same way...
      You'll use longer bolts to mount the tube behind/to the backside of the frame at a depth you will need to determine via trial and error.

      Otherwise when you go to put it back together the bezel will be pop'd out due to the extra thickness of the swapped tube.
      so ill have to take the back of cab off?

      I don't mind as long as I don't have this shirt monitor I got from of the convergence is so bad and can't be fixed. By me at least.
      My cabs: 2×Blast City/Egret 2/Egret 3/Windy 2/Crownin 203/ Tmnt/ Centipede upright+cocktail/ Space Invaders cocktail/Neogeo 4+6 slot BigRed/ Area51/ 2×mk3/ BigGuns Pinball/ Dkjr
    • Nope you can pull the entire monitor (frame+tube+chassis) out from the front, but I do recommend that if you do this solo you lay the cab down on its back first.
      Stand/straddle over the body and lift the tube directly up and out (to reduce the chance of catching/hitting the neck).
      The slight tilt of the tube coupled with the weight makes it hard to remove cleanly from a standing position (unless you have help).
      Darksoft/Apocalypse: CPS2, CPS3, F3-β, MVS, S16-β
      RGB: RECO v2
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24, Namco System 11/12 KHA
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special HAS Edition)
    • Yes mount the replacement tube to the back-side of the original Sega frame.
      The length of the bolts will be determined by the depth you need to sink the tube in order to close the bezel flush to the body (without gaps).
      Darksoft/Apocalypse: CPS2, CPS3, F3-β, MVS, S16-β
      RGB: RECO v2
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24, Namco System 11/12 KHA
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special HAS Edition)

      The post was edited 1 time, last by jassin000 ().

    • The biggest issue you'll find with replacement tubes in the Blast is none match the curve of that Nanao tube perfectly.
      This will create small gaps at the corners of the bezel, I did three tube swaps trying to find a perfect match... Best size match I ever found was a Wells Gardner K7500.
      Darksoft/Apocalypse: CPS2, CPS3, F3-β, MVS, S16-β
      RGB: RECO v2
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24, Namco System 11/12 KHA
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special HAS Edition)
    • I couldn't remember who actually made the tube, so I just referred to it incorrectly as a "Nanao" tube. ;)
      Interesting enough I believe the swap that best fit the curvature was a RCA and not another Toshiba.
      Darksoft/Apocalypse: CPS2, CPS3, F3-β, MVS, S16-β
      RGB: RECO v2
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24, Namco System 11/12 KHA
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special HAS Edition)
    • rewrite wrote:

      kuze wrote:

      spare 2930/2931 tube
      What's the tube number on these?
      ukvac.com/forum/uploads/2670/20150915_225603.jpg

      Should be A68kzn696x

      Edit: AO to the rescue:
      wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Nanao_MS-2931

      AO wiki wrote:

      Known tubes:
      Toshiba A68KJU96X / MS2932 : H :0.4 Ohms V:7 Ohms
      Toshiba A68LBT696X / MS2931 : H :0.9 Ohms V :6.8 Ohms
      Toshiba A68KZN696X / MS2930 : H :0.5 Ohms V:6.7 Ohms
    • I know people always say "just measure the neck". How do you know which pins are H and which are V so you can measure?

      The values in there are useful and could be compared with A68KSM696X.
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, and an SNK SC-25.

      Shameless plug: Rewrite's Recaps - Your monitor and PSU recapping service center
    • kuze wrote:

      grantspain on AO
      He's remarkably knowledgeable. He's fixed probably every one of my monitors over the years (possibly because he's one of only two people who comment in the AO Monitor repair section. But still!)
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, and an SNK SC-25.

      Shameless plug: Rewrite's Recaps - Your monitor and PSU recapping service center
    • rewrite wrote:

      I know people always say "just measure the neck". How do you know which pins are H and which are V so you can measure?
      Those values aren't for the neck, they're for the yoke. With regard to necks, if it fits, it's probably pin compatible.

      As for the yoke, on Nanaos if there's two separate connectors, the larger connector is for the horizontal winding, smaller connector for vertical. If they're all in one connector, the first two are horizontal.

      Windings are very low resistance, usually too low for a regular multimeter. Touch both probes together to see what the internal resistance is for the multimeter. Mine is 0.3ohm. I then subtract that from the value of the yoke.
    • nem wrote:

      Those values aren't for the neck, they're for the yoke. With regard to necks, if it fits, it's probably pin compatible.
      I've greatly misunderstood this for YEARS. I thought you were supposed to measure different pins on the neck against one another. I know what the yoke is, I just didn't realize it was related, ha.

      Thank you for explaining!
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, and an SNK SC-25.

      Shameless plug: Rewrite's Recaps - Your monitor and PSU recapping service center