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Samducksa Crowin CW-203 Monitor Chassis

Dreygor

Dreygor

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Soooo I recently acquired a Korean candy cab. The monitor tube is a 27" (29" euro) Samsung (see pictures). The fly-back is damaged and everything has a blue tint on it. So to that I end I am in search of a complete and fully working med res fly back and chassis for this thing.

http://samducksa.com/new/product/index_view.php?UidNum=15



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Thank you.
 
How do you know it's a flyback issue? Blue tint on a picture isn't usually a sign of a bad fly back. Try the usual suspects first:

Adjusting the rgb levels.
Reseating the RGBHV connectors.

See if that changes anything first. Then it's going to be time to start messing around. It might be as simple as a yoke adjustment or messing with the rings.

Also, if that's playing CPS2, that's standard res, not medium.
 
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DecepticonZero said:
How do you know it's a flyback issue? Blue tint on a picture isn't usually a sign of a bad fly back. Try the usual suspects first:

Adjusting the rgb levels.
Reseating the RGBHV connectors.

See if that changes anything first. Then it's going to be time to start messing around. It might be as simple as a yoke adjustment or messing with the rings.
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Yeah .. no .. I don't do any monitor work. However I do have a friend who will do a swap for me. With that said I tried adjusting just about every pot I could find on it. None of them seemed to make a difference, but with that said I will check to see if everything is seated right.
DecepticonZero said:
Also, if that's playing CPS2, that's standard res, not medium.
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Nah that Darkstalkers CPS2 aint for that cab.
 
It's hard to tell from the pics, but it should have a header for 15 and a header for 24 as it's listed as switchable on hard candy.
 
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DecepticonZero said:
It's hard to tell from the pics, but it should have a head for 15 and a header for 24 as it's listed as switchable on hard candy.
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I don't remember seeing anything like that either but I will look closer.
 
So, can't say for certain since I don't have the chassis in front of me, nor can I find any good info about these cabs/monitor chassis, but if you look at the area circled in blue I would suspect that's where you can select your resolution. The non-auto switching MS9s have a similar jumper.

As for the blue tint, if you see the area I've circled in red, it looks like you've got a silkscreen for a capacitor but there's nothing there. Worth checking to see it looks like bad solder joints allowed it to come loose or maybe it was ripped off the board. Your other pics don't show any other empty silkscreens, so my inclination is that there's a component that should be there but isn't.
 

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benime said:
So, can't say for certain since I don't have the chassis in front of me, nor can I find any good info about these cabs/monitor chassis, but if you look at the area circled in blue I would suspect that's where you can select your resolution. The non-auto switching MS9s have a similar jumper.

As for the blue tint, if you see the area I've circled in red, it looks like you've got a silkscreen for a capacitor but there's nothing there. Worth checking to see it looks like bad solder joints allowed it to come loose or maybe it was ripped off the board. Your other pics don't show any other empty silkscreens, so my inclination is that there's a component that should be there but isn't.
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OK so I took a better picture of that area and it does look like something is missing. I do not see any mystery parts rolling around inside of the cab. There was actually no debris, screws, or stuff like that you normally find lol.

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Also I see the jumpers you were talking about. However downside is I do not do board level repairs. Is this something I could possibly send to you for repairs?

If it helps I found some model numbers on the chassis and on the remote board.

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Moving that jumper to the other set of pin will switch the resolution. One is 15k the other is 24k. If youre getting a picture that isn't jumping, it sounds like you're on 15k already. If you can, take a picture of all of the pots. It looks like you have gain and bias color pots. You have to tune both sets at the same time if that's the case. Also, take a picture of what the monitor looks like on please.
 
DecepticonZero said:
Moving that jumper to the other set of pin will switch the resolution. One is 15k the other is 24k. If youre getting a picture that isn't jumping, it sounds like you're on 15k already. If you can, take a picture of all of the pots. It looks like you have gain and bias color pots. You have to tune both sets at the same time if that's the case. Also, take a picture of what the monitor looks like on please.
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OK no problem I will power it up tomorrow and take pictures
 
Chassis is an Orion.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/261283189673

Look familiar?

The chassis above also has the cap that's missing on your board. The silkscreen on your board is visibly darkened inside the circle, so most likely something used to be there.

Anyway, blue tint could be a tube issue, but best to start with the chassis.

There's a blue cut off pot on the neck board (B BIAS). Turn that counter clockwise. You should just see red and green after that. If you're still seeing blue, something in blue circuit is acting up.

Read this:

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/How_to_Correctly_Set_Up_Monitor_Colours_and_Brightness

Your drive pots are on the main board.
 
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@DecepticonZero @nem Well, this all went from bad to worse. Today when I started the cab to get pictures of what the monitor was doing the picture never came on .. it stayed blank. It looked like there was neck glow, although it was dim, and the monitor was making a buzzing noise :( This is where my trouble shooting stops until I can either get someone to repair the chassis or something :(

That does look exactly like my chassis. I looked at all of the listings on eBay and all are "not tested" or not working :(
 
You don't want those chassis. They're all Wei Ya trash. You'd have more success replacing the monitor with hand drawn pictures of Street Fighter.

What are you running in 24k btw? You might want to look into snagging an MS9 from an Astro and putting that in there.
 
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@DecepticonZero If I had an Astro here in backwoods Georgia I would probably leave the monitor in it lol.

Well I am thinking about running a MAME pc through a VGA to CGA board, Taito F3, or maybe my Puzz Loop 1 .. I guess those all could be ran through standard res chassis. I was hoping to get it running at least Med res for the PC.
 
Im not saying a whole Astro, I ment just the monitor. With as many machines that are coming into the country now, you have more of an opportunity then ever before to find parts for these cabs local or within shipping distance. I'm not saying it's gonna be cheap, but it's an option.

Your other option would be to learn how to remove the chassis you have and send it out for repair. There are a few places that do it, so you have options there as well.
 
You have to determine if the blue tint is a poorly set white point, or if the set is improperly biased. How would you characterize the blue tint?
 
Hatsune Mike said:
You have to determine if the blue tint is a poorly set white point, or if the set is improperly biased. How would you characterize the blue tint?
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Well .. unfortunately I can't tell you for sure now. The monitor does not even have a picture anymore. So at this point I don't want to keep powering it up in fear of making matters worse.
 
@Hatsune Mike
@DecepticonZero
@nem

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Yeeeaaaahh .. I have allot of monitors sitting around that need work. I don't work on them myself so they tend to accumulate. The 27" monitors all need some kind of chassis repairs .. or missing chassis all together. The 25" mostly just need re-caps and adjustments

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I did find that one of my 27" is a Nanao MS-9 .. but I have no chassis for it. It also has some burn in from Virtual-On lol

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I found another monitor that would work awesome, a WG 27D2902 trisync .. and I have two chassis for it but both need work. One chassis has some bad damaged caps and and the other has a bad flyback and power issues.
 
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I have a Crowin Case 203 as well, I just checked mine and it has a slightly different model of monitor chassis. Mine says KMP 29GGLM on the chassis and KMP 2902 on the remote board. My C208 is a 50v 4.7uf, but I wouldn't trust that value since the boards are different designs.

It would be nice if we could compile cap lists for these monitors for the community. I have been meaning to do it on mine, just haven't gotten around to it. If they already existed, your missing cap would be a simple buy and install fix... But since it's unknown and I don't know where to find schematics it gets tricky. I wouldn't recommend trying things until it works, best to find someone else with the same chassis that can give us what the stock values are.
 
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