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mrnewland1

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Hey guys, I scored this machine yesterday. I know it's not exactly a super sought after game but it means alot to me!
KIMG0547.jpg


Anyway, my question-It's obviously a conversion because the harness is JAMMA which goes to an adapter then to the Sega 16 pcb. The ESWAT game looks and works just fine. But I tried to hook up X-Men and the picture was upside down and backwards. I researched that this is the yoke plug and if the vertical and horizontal yoke connections are individually flipped around this will correct the screen. My idea was to put each vertical and horizontal on switches so I can switch between the two "poles" whenever a new game is hooked up that requires it. Is this pretty common? Is it a bad idea? help please

The monitor is a Phillips 19VKUP22
 
X-Men should have a video screen flip setting in game options under the test menu. See if it is on normal.
 
X-Men should have a video screen flip setting in game options under the test menu. See if it is on normal.
Yep you're right it did have an option for that. Thankyou
 
Messing around with monitors while running could put stress on the monitor board. Definitely don't mess with anything high voltage. If they were designed to have the polarity switched while running they would have a built in switch. I have seen these yoke swapper switch kits before, but I wouldn't trust it myself. I'm glad in your case it was a simple software fix.
 
Messing around with monitors while running could put stress on the monitor board. Definitely don't mess with anything high voltage. If they were designed to have the polarity switched while running they would have a built in switch. I have seen these yoke swapper switch kits before, but I wouldn't trust it myself. I'm glad in your case it was a simple software fix.
Interesting. I didn't realize there were kits for this situation.

Also, how high is the voltage going through the yolk connectors that I would theoretically switch?
 
Thousands of volts.

I've had a horizontal yoke connector short and catch fire. It's not something I would play around with.

EDIT: found the pic
 

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Thousands of volts.

I've had a horizontal yoke connector short and catch fire. It's not something I would play around with.

EDIT: found the pic
Yeah I actually ended up having to flip both horizintal and vertical yoke connectors on the board side (as opposed to the monitor side). It worked out fine. I first discharged the tube using the screwdriver method, while wearing rubber gloves for good measure. It worked out great. I am still curious as to why it was flipped to begin with. I even noticed that the stock eswat board had it's dip switch flipped to accommodate the upside down monitor.
 
You didn't have to discharge the tube as the yoke is separate from it.

Maybe someone had the chassis out for repair and when putting it back in inserted the yoke connectors the wrong way. Who knows.
 
Thousands of volts.

I've had a horizontal yoke connector short and catch fire. It's not something I would play around with.

EDIT: found the pic
thousands of v in deflection?!? Even horz should be less 200v, vertical less still.
 
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The problem is that deflection coils are an inductor. The electronics driving those inductors don't like it if they temporary disconnected and reconnected while running. You will end up with a defective chassis in no time. During the switch, the deflection will dissapear for a fraction of a second having your beam in the center of the screen. This can burn the phosfor of the tube in the center of it.

You could get away with an automatic switch if it uses beefy relais and basically turns off the chassis, waits 10 seconds, switches the coils and turns the chassis back on again. It's the only safe method to do it but I wouldn't recommend it.
 
The problem is that deflection coils are an inductor. The electronics driving those inductors don't like it if they temporary disconnected and reconnected while running. You will end up with a defective chassis in no time. During the switch, the deflection will dissapear for a fraction of a second having your beam in the center of the screen. This can burn the phosfor of the tube in the center of it.

You could get away with an automatic switch if it uses beefy relais and basically turns off the chassis, waits 10 seconds, switches the coils and turns the chassis back on again. It's the only safe method to do it but I wouldn't recommend it.
Yeah it really seems like a bad idea. Thanks for the help. I don't even really need to worry about that anymore as I manually flipped the connectors and everything seems to be good now.
 
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