ATX bench PSU

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    • ATX bench PSU

      Time for an upgrade! My previous ATX bench supply was without me knowing it causing all sorts of video issues. After identifying the problem, it was time to get a new one, and I've picked up a Cooler Master MasterWatt 650W. ATX power for arcade is just fine, but using an old beat-up recycled thing may not be ideal unless you have a way to verify that is's working ok. A multi-meter will not do the trick unfortunately.

      You're never going to need 650W, but the nice thing is that even with ~5A on the 5V rail, which is about as much as you will ever see - it stays quiet with no fan activity. Also nice with this one is that it doesn't have a ton of cables/connectors attached, and that the 24pin cable is a little longer than normal. The ad for it says 16AWG, which turned out to be bogus - the 24pin is plain 18AWG.



      Scope time :)

      This was the root cause of issues I had with the old one, ripple about 0.17V when loaded ~ 4A:


      This is the cooler master, with a ripple of about 30mv, or 0.03V which is really good:


      For reference, same setup with my linear Rigol DP831 fancy lab supply:
      FOR SCIENCE! I make and sell the Jammafier & other stuff, irkenlabs.com
    • New

      Hi, I've some questions

      The Cooler Master MasterWatt 650W you've picked up is a 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold?

      Is it working properly with most arcade boards?

      I've tried to use ATX PSU (PC) for arcade board such as CPS2 but it doesn't work due to the voltage was dropped below 5V
      and there is no adjustable.
    • New

      phoenix07 wrote:

      Hi, I've some questions

      The Cooler Master MasterWatt 650W you've picked up is a 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold?

      Is it working properly with most arcade boards?

      I've tried to use ATX PSU (PC) for arcade board such as CPS2 but it doesn't work due to the voltage was dropped below 5V
      and there is no adjustable.
      Exact model I got is "MPX-6501-AMAAB-EU", which seems to be bronze. I've had CPS2 on the bench with this, and no issues. It's so full of juicy caps that it often takes a few seconds for the power LED on the Jammafier to go dark when you turn it off.
      FOR SCIENCE! I make and sell the Jammafier & other stuff, irkenlabs.com
    • New

      For what it's worth, I also run an ATX power supply with a CPS2 (runs my entire cabinet including Lights, fan, audio amp, JVS IO and Jammafier) and have no problems at all.
      It is a high quality one though, not a bargain bin supply. Seasonic X-650. Power supplies are the one thing you never want to cheap out on, ever, whether it's your computer or your arcade boards.
      Bad power supplies will potentially cause weird issues at best, and at worst, kill whatever you have hooked up to it when it inevitably self-destructs.

      Edit: Another cause of problems is undersized wiring. I see this a lot in the arcade world for some reason despite people being otherwise quite knowledgeable. Seeing things like running high draw boards and components through a single tiny 20awg steel or aluminum wire with the voltage output cranked 10%+ to compensate and other such nonsense quite worryingly often. With adequately sized wire for a given load and wire length, there should be very little reason ever, if at all, to ever adjust a power supply's output outside of spec.

      The post was edited 3 times, last by adgenet ().

    • New

      I've had great luck with this particular PSU from Suzo Happ:
      na.suzohapp.com/products/power_supplies/80-0002-10

      Frank built me a cable that plugged straight out of it to an ATX connector.

      The main point in me getting that PSU over an ATX was that the +5v is adjustable on the Suzo Happ which helped out on a few tricky boards (big stuff like M-72 but also smaller stuff like Cave CV-1000).

      I believe @SmokeMonster uses a similar supply from Suzo Happ with good results too.
      Multis: CPS-2, CPS-3, F3, ST-V, MVS, M72, G-Net
      PVMs: 2043MD, 20M2MDA, 20L2MD
      Supergun: Sentinel / XRGB-mini
      PCBs: VAPS Profile

    • New

      I use a SUN JVS (NAOMI) PSU on my bench, and I have the auxiliary connector wired to a JAMMA harness, it makes testing both JAMMA and JVS boards a breeze.

      I've suspected it's been in need of a rebuild though. This thread makes me think I should run it though a scope.
      Buy 3D Printed Parts: bit-district.com
      Projects: instagram | blog
      Games: VAPS | VOOT | UMK3 | RFM | Vewlix | FiF Jr. | KI2 | E29 | Net City | DDR | Flash Beats
      Wanted | For Sale/Trade
    • New

      twistedsymphony wrote:

      I use a SUN JVS (NAOMI) PSU on my bench, and I have the auxiliary connector wired to a JAMMA harness, it makes testing both JAMMA and JVS boards a breeze.

      I've suspected it's been in need of a rebuild though. This thread makes me think I should run it though a scope.
      After having a PSU explode in one of my cabs and spark before, I’m super careful now and send ‘em to Jomac here in Australia for a refurb before playing any cab I own. I just sent two off today actually.

      Highly recommended action as the PSU is essentially the heart of the arcade and once they’re checked up you’ll rest easier pluggin’ in all your PCB nuggets ;)
      Multis: CPS-2, CPS-3, F3, ST-V, MVS, M72, G-Net
      PVMs: 2043MD, 20M2MDA, 20L2MD
      Supergun: Sentinel / XRGB-mini
      PCBs: VAPS Profile

    • New

      djsheep wrote:

      Highly recommended action as the PSU is essentially the heart of the arcade and once they’re checked up you’ll rest easier pluggin’ in all your PCB nuggets
      I inspect them when I get them, put a load on them and see how stable the voltage is at load and after a long use, but rebuilding every single one seems unnecessary, particularly since I've probably got 40+ PSUs kicking around.
      Buy 3D Printed Parts: bit-district.com
      Projects: instagram | blog
      Games: VAPS | VOOT | UMK3 | RFM | Vewlix | FiF Jr. | KI2 | E29 | Net City | DDR | Flash Beats
      Wanted | For Sale/Trade