Sega Universal Upright conversion

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    • A little more progress on the cab has been made!

      The base now has its first coat on!

      I managed to whack on some paint last weekend and I completed a 2000 grit wet sand, so the finish is super smooth for the second coat of paint.











      She's definitely come a looooong way from what she looked like in the beginning :)

      Next up i got the top part of the CP painted and wet sanded too.

      The cp looks pretty good and I'm very happy with the result.



      With the panel sitting on the freshly painted cp holder



      And a comparison of what it would've looked like without the fresh coat of paint!



      It's night and day!

      There's still so many things to do as I want to do two coats of paint and two coats of clear. Each coat has a wet sand.

      The overall process for each part I'm painting is (and it's probably a waste and over the top, but oh well):

      - sand back
      - wax and grease clean
      - prime
      - wet sand with 800 grit
      - paint
      - wet sand with 2000 grit
      - paint
      - wet sand with 2000 grit
      - clear coat
      - wet sand with 2000 grit
      - clear coat
      - cut and polish

      Then once everything is painted, re assemble then start on the electronics!

      Hoping for a June/July completion (but I'm not in a rush)
    • mR_CaESaR wrote:

      The overall process for each part I'm painting is (and it's probably a waste and over the top, but oh well):

      - sand back
      - wax and grease clean
      - prime
      - wet sand with 800 grit
      - paint
      - wet sand with 2000 grit
      - paint
      - wet sand with 2000 grit
      - clear coat
      - wet sand with 2000 grit
      - clear coat
      - cut and polish

      Then once everything is painted, re assemble then start on the electronics!
      I am no expert here... but are you meant to sand between colour and clear coat? My understanding was that you shouldn’t... the clear coat will bond with the colour better that way...

      Also between clear coats... buffing afterwards is preferable, otherwise you can sand through the clear, straight to the colour?

      Again, these aren’t my views... just what I read around lately... plus potentially less work for you (if you can get a top colour coat you are totally happy with of course!)

      Anyway - amazing restoration! Subbed.
    • nam9 wrote:

      I am no expert here... but are you meant to sand between colour and clear coat? My understanding was that you shouldn’t... the clear coat will bond with the colour better that way...
      Also between clear coats... buffing afterwards is preferable, otherwise you can sand through the clear, straight to the colour?

      Again, these aren’t my views... just what I read around lately... plus potentially less work for you (if you can get a top colour coat you are totally happy with of course!)

      Anyway - amazing restoration! Subbed.

      That actually makes sense!

      I'll have to google it up.. I just thought you wet sanded in between each coat.
    • nam9 wrote:

      I am no expert here... but are you meant to sand between colour and clear coat? My understanding was that you shouldn’t... the clear coat will bond with the colour better that way...

      I have no choice now but to sand in between the colour and clear coat...

      The dust bunnies got in the way and I'm left with a whole heap of dust that I need to get rid of
    • No major updates but slow progress from the weekend.

      I got one clear coat on without any perceived yellow tinge (at least to my eyes)



      Started the first coat of the other metal panels...



      Still need to prime the big panel, but that can be a job for this weekend :)

      Without spending too much money trying different paint to find the closest to the feet and top end cap, I found this particular colour (thanks Hyundai! :))



      The feet and cap before the work...







      A quick comparison (she'll do!)



      And the end product!







      I'm quite happy with the way the colour has turned out, will do a wetsand and another coat before putting the clear coat on.
    • What felt like a long day's worth of work, doesn't show in pics hahah

      The end caps are now done and the base is now done!

      Got the wheels on and two coats of clear.



      Unfortunately, not spraying in a dust proof booth meant in between clear coats, a few dust bunnies got stuck :( (it is what it is)

      Now I wait a few days for the clear to cure..

      I prepped the bottom part of the CP early this morning with a coat of primer..







      Managed to get the last can I had to do one coat of white.. Time to call it a day



      A trip to bunnings tomorrow to buy some more cans of appliance white and clear.
    • Test fit - she's starting to look the part!

      Still a long way to go, but when it's like this.. It's quite exciting






      Front view of where the shroud got patched up...



      You can see the massive difference in colour..

      Cleaned retrobrite bezel, vs a freshly sprayed appliance white :)



      Monitor shroud getting primed!



    • Ok, back from holidays so a quick update on the parts side of things....

      I purchased a clone Naomi cabinet from highway entertainment with a couple of gambles.

      1. Hope that the marquee will fit the Naomi
      2. Hope that I can fix the 31khz crt that has "discolouration issues" (as advertised) to use in my Naomi to take it back to its original 31khz purpose
      3. Hope the bezel will fit the Naomi shroud if end up using the monitor





      I can confirm the marquee fits perfectly.





      I haven't been able to confirm the bezel as I've been primarily focusing on the crt..

      I plugged in a DC via VGA and no amount of degaussing fixed it his issue..



      I was told this is a colour purity issue so I started looking into it.

      Fortunately, I was tipped off by Ludo (not sure if he's on the forums or not) who stated he had the same issues and he fixed it by placing magnets on the tube.

      He sent me a quick turorial that used magnets from bunnings and also mentioned using a dowel to put the north and south poles on each end to see the effects of putting the magnets on the tube..

      A quick trip to bunnings and a purchase of a dowel, I came up with my purity fixer! :)





      After spending a good 30 or so minutes going back and forth, I found where I needed to stick the magnets to give me the best result

      To fix the bottom left issue on the monitor, I placed two magnets behind the tube..



      To fix the the top right issue, I put two magnets on top of each other behind the area


      Pictures say a thousand words, so here are the before and after the magnets.

      Red before



      Red after



      Green before



      Green after



      Blue before



      Blue after



      And finally, the same MVC2 splash screen is now as good as I can possibly get with no perceived colour purity issue!



      Whilst I can appreciate this will never be a Toshiba PF setup, I'm more than happy with what I'm seeing and is good enough for my use.
    • Did you try to adjust the purity rings on the neck? It's possible the color issue could have been sorted without needing to use magnets.

      The problem with magnets is that they will affect geometry. What does your grid look like in the monitor test?

      This said, you did a really good job with magnets. Two thumbs up.
    • Nah I didn't.

      I'm not too confident about touching the rings whilst the monitor is on.

      I'll have to check the geometry next time, there is some pinching going on, but that was there before the magnets.

      The monitor definitely isn't perfect, it'll satisfy my purpose for the time being until I get a bigger place and get a proper NNC.
    • Ahhhh this is that "clone" one we "discussed" on facebook. The Super Star 2, Century 2 eh?

      hard--candy.com/candy/Super_Star
      hard--candy.com/candy/Super_Star_2

      Glad they didn't flood the market with them!
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    • Thanks a thousand times for doing this thorough rebuild thread, i've just got myself a Net City and have been looking for a decent take apart guide and potential gotcha's, and this post has seen me right, i intend to start work this weekend, although the weather here in blighty is pants at the moment!

      I wait with baited breath for the electronics part, as the cab itself is in very good shape, but its been converted to JAMMA and i want to put it back to stock JVS for my Naomi netboot rig, so i REALLY look forward to the next bit! :D
    • So the time has come for me to transplant the 31khz from the clone to the real deal... I've had to wait since the chassis on the vertical astro needed to be fixed before I could do anything..

      I started stripping out the monitor to change over to the proper sega frame...



      I'm trying to identify the chassis, but there's no real markings stating model number or who it's made by, I have no idea..



      Fit the monitor braces on...



      After too much mucking about, I decided to keep the frame it was originally on and not change it to the sega frame, it wax just too hard to line up the chassis mounts without some extensive hacking, so I decided to keep the frame (its crap compared to the sega, but it fit!)



      Check out the flatness of this screen!! It's a bootleg Toshiba PF!! :D :D



      Next up was to remove the bezel from the clone and use it...

      She fits like a glove!!!



      Finally, it was time to line her up with her siblings...



      Not a bad sight! It'll be so good when they're all powered on!

      Hoping to get in a hour or so each night for the wiring since it's in the garage.

      Can't wait to wire it up and test the Naomi's!