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Hahaha... This has been a labour of love... It's taken so long to get to this stage!

Unbelievable how "dirty" the astros look next to this.. And I believe my astros are "clean"
 
Did some rough wiring to test the Naomi's....

Wasn't happy when I received this message :(

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Then I did the old cartridge technique and took it out and blew on the cart.. Gave it a decent push down and voila!! We have picture!

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Tried the second Naomi mobo and to my surprise, that also worked!

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Now I'm really wanting to get a net dimm!

So the job for the next few days is to start cleaning up the wiring and getting the control panel all wired up to test the JVS!
 
Replaced the speakers that didn't work with theze JVCs (not earth shattering, but they do a great jobl.

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Started with the control panel wiring. I've done one player, making my way to the second player and then the kick harness.

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Popped over to bunnings to get a new T18 tube with the hope the ballast still works and the tube not blow up since it's wired for 110v

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Turned her all on, and voila!! The marquee from the clone fits perfectly and I didn't blow anything up! (after a quick google, I realised fluro tubes aren't actually rated for voltage, it's only the input voltage for the ballast)

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A quick video of it all in action with the sound on!


Once the cp is all wired, it's just a matter of finishing the paint work on a few bits, speaker grills, wiring back plate then procuring a net dimm, multi bios an zero key.

The end is so close! Yet still so far! :) :)
 
Finalising the last bits and pieces to paint that I've been delaying (the back power plate, back plate and panel cover).

The back plate the way it was as I got it...

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Giving it a good sand and a brush down of rust convert solution

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Not much else I could really do on the cab front so I decided to clean the Naomi...

She was quite dirty but nothing too bad..

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A quick dismantle..

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And we see about 20 years worth of dust! Absolute filth!

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Magic erasers are the best thing created for cleaning! This is the result after a good 15 mins of cleaning.

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Next up, I got shipment of my net dimm!! Yay!

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Unfortunately, I have no idea if it works properly as I've tried two different Naomi boards and I still get the same as error.

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I believe my bios is way out of date and that it's not even compatible with the net dimm! (I've got EPR-D 21580)

I'm hoping the multi bios comes in my possession sometime early next week to give the net boot a good test! Fingers crossed that the net dimm works as expected.

In the meantime, I'm trying to grab all the stuff I need for my pi... I think my internet connection is as old as the Naomi with my super fast!l 261KB/s speed! :D :D

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Will need to make a trip to get some satin black spray paint for the speaker grills.

Until next update....
 
So I got delivery of the final pieces to the puzzle today!

A raspberry pi 3 and the Multibios and zero key! (thanks @oneleaf86!!)

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After changing the bios, the error 01 code immediately disappeared and got the network system splash screen - very good sign!

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Took me about 5 minutes to figure out after "setting" the IP address, I needed to reboot the system for me to successfully ping the device from my computer.

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Did a transfer of mvc2 as a quick test..

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The following screens started appearing

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Unfortunately upon loading, I got this screen

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Took me another 5 or so mins to figure out that I needed to change the machine type from 1 player to 2 player.

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Once that setting was changed....

Voila!!

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Next to fix and properly test the raspberry pi loader via a Web browser (either from my phone, tablet or anything)

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It's really just finishing up the paint work, install the pieces, tidy up the wiring and order some repro artwork and this project can be signed off!

Almost there!
 
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great job and very, this thread wil be useful for my own NNC update. What's Magic erasers? where can I find? and what's use for the yellowness? Retrobright? what's version & where buy it?
 
great job and very, this thread wil be useful for my own NNC update. What's Magic erasers? where can I find? and what's use for the yellowness? Retrobright? what's version & where buy it?
Magic Erasers is a cleaning product - https://www.mrclean.com/en-us/shop-products/magic-erasers/magic-eraser-original

Not sure if it's available in France. It won't de-yellow, but it will help clean really stubborn marks.

I only did a quick attempt of retrobright as a test... but since I painted the whole thing, it didn't matter for me
 
Magic Erasers is a cleaning product - mrclean.com/en-us/shop-product…ers/magic-eraser-original

Not sure if it's available in France. It won't de-yellow, but it will help clean really stubborn marks.
also important to notes that is is abrasive. it's like using a really fine grit sandpaper.

it will scrub the color right off of stickers and scrub the paint off of painted parts.

generally using it on plastic it will leave scrub marks, so be careful when you use it.
 
I have it, but it's seems to be very abrasive and remove a little bit lacquer coating. Maybe I dont know how use it properly.
For my astro cities, after using magic erasers, I did a cut and polish and give it a polish once a year.
 
And... The restoration has taken another dive! :(

As I was trying to sort out the piforce, I noticed the image go funny - it became large and then the image pinch and became like an hour glass (not that bad, but concaved)

Shortly after when the Naomi rebooted, the signal wasn't present (but the sound was) and it sound like the monitor was trying to turn on.

And then the smell.... There was an electrical smell that was very present in the air..

Back to square 1 looking for a 31khz monitor. I'll disassemble the chassis and try and find some sort of identifier to see if I can get a replacement as I know Jomac doesn't really fix 31khz chassis.

Hopefully I can also find the "burnt" section and see what the damage is.

I'd love to know how this happened, the monitor and chassis was secured, no wires touched (that I could tell anyway) and the input voltage was coming out of the transformer - if it was going to fail due to incorrect input voltage, I would've thought this would have occurred earlier.
 
DAMN man, that really sucks, I know how much work you've put into that machine and it's truly disheartening to hear that happened. Let me know on LINE or by DM if there's anything I can do to help out.

I spoke to Jomac last week and he does do 31khz chassis but only Sanwa 29ES31 or Nanao MS-2932-S. He said he doesn't touch the Toshiba or TOEI chassis, most likely due to the problems they suffer with age... If you're stuck, I'd hit him up regardless and see if he can arrange a replacement chassis for your tube? Or hit up Yaton and see if he has a replacement chassis and get it to Jomac for the once over?
 
Monitor looks like a Pentranic? It has a Wei-ya / Rodotron chassis on it. They are trash tier unfortunately. Horizontal inductance on the yoke is likely 0.300mh, so you should have options for a chassis swap.
 
DAMN man, that really sucks, I know how much work you've put into that machine and it's truly disheartening to hear that happened. Let me know on LINE or by DM if there's anything I can do to help out.

I spoke to Jomac last week and he does do 31khz chassis but only Sanwa 29ES31 or Nanao MS-2932-S. He said he doesn't touch the Toshiba or TOEI chassis, most likely due to the problems they suffer with age... If you're stuck, I'd hit him up regardless and see if he can arrange a replacement chassis for your tube? Or hit up Yaton and see if he has a replacement chassis and get it to Jomac for the once over?
Yeah man, trust me, I was pretty pissed off when it happened - almost threw in the towel, but.. I like to finish things I've started and "it is what it is", there's not much really I could do. If I caused it, then yeah, I'd accept it quite easily, but I was just minding my own business when it happened.

I'd like to get a replacement chassis if it's possible.

Monitor looks like a Pentranic? It has a Wei-ya / Rodotron chassis on it. They are trash tier unfortunately. Horizontal inductance on the yoke is likely 0.300mh, so you should have options for a chassis swap.
Not a Pentranic, it's labelled as "Hua Fei founded by Phillips type A68ERF185X044/M" so I have no idea.

Is there an easy way to find out details on the yoke to confirm a chassis swap?

In light of issue that occurred, on a good note, I fixed the my piforce issue I was having - no idea how, but loading bins is now possible on a web browser!

 
Phillips A68 tube is usually married to a Nanao chassis isn't it? Or in this case a replacement Wei-Ya

I'd suggest this is compatible with an MS9-29 chassis. Send the tube number through to Jomac, he'll know straight away.
 
Chassis pics (no clue exact model)

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Some impedance readings (hopefully this is correct)

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