Vewlix L Help

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    • OMG that link is a HORROR show!
      At least no real Vewlix's were hurt in the making of this post (that is a Chewlix cab not a Vewlix).


      Niko wrote:

      I dont understand how the monitor is held into the unit if your not using the VESA mount?
      Yea its fucking tapped inside/resting on wooden blocks...

      "Then I used the old glass fixation system to fix the screen perfectly. Unframe the new screens are not a good idea, as they fit so well naturaly inside the vewlix frame."

      No way in hell I'd ever do something this amature/unprofessional!
      The LCD MUST be de-cased (unframe haha) and mounted (with god damn screws you chucklehead) inside the original Vewlix frame or I have ZERO interest.

      "dudez check out my awesome Chinese made Vewlix cab!" *breathes heavily near it* "oh fuck all my glue and rubber bands just came free!"

      I feel like the time is finally right for Draken to enter cab ownership, layer the monitor thick with hotglue baby we don't need no MF'n screws!
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)

      The post was edited 7 times, last by jassin000 ().

    • HighFlow wrote:

      nobody wants to share experience?
      This seems to be the most likely one.

      I've heard a handful of people say they put new screens in their real Vewlix cabs, but not one of them has documented it, and they don't seem to want to share anything about their experiences. Just "it wasn't that hard" or similar.

      But at a minimum whatever monitor will need to be decased, and then you'll need to make extension cables of some sort for the monitor's controls so they'll be accessible somewhere..
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, Grand Am Q25, Capcom New Concept 2, and Naomi guncabs.
    • I've decased a 46" TV before, and it wasn't hard, can't imagine a 32" monitor would be any different. Main thing to watch out for is being really careful as you remove things, because manufacturers love those flat ribbon connectors that tear easily. They save internal space, but they're damn fragile.

      End of the day a 32" panel is a 32" panel, there's nothing magic about what goes in a Vewlix, aside from people who are purists about using outdated tech. If you're running nothing but real arcade hardware that's outputting 720p then that's fine, if you're using a console or PC with modern games that can output much higher resolutions I'd say it's absolutely worth it. 720 is pretty garbage at that size and viewing distance.

      My only issue would be that I'd refuse to use any panel I didn't already know for certain had sub frame lag. I see people bragging about the great color on their IPS monitors and wince, because it's likely that's also a 40ms panel. Lag is easily the most important thing to me over color depth or authenticity or rez.
    • Here are a few quick pictures I took on my lunch break. I took the Samsung panel out of the monitor casing and laid it into my original Vewlix L monitor frame. As you can see, the original corner brackets will not work. Not only are they too far away from the back of the panel, they also do not touch the corners of the panel for corner support. If I pick the bezel upright, the monitor just slides all the way to the bottom of the frame.
      Images
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    • Definitely solvable. Probably a lot of ways to do it, but 3D printed brackets seem like an obvious answer since you need 4 of them that are roughly identical, just mirrored.

      What I would do is build a concept bracket out of cardboard or cardstock, something that lines up with the mounting holes on the frame, has the 90° bends necessary to press down on the monitor and secure the corners etc. Get it all right 'on paper' so to speak, and then you can unfold it, scan it or take careful measurements, and that can be converted to a 3D model.
    • Coyo5050 wrote:

      How did the monitor fit when still in the case? I feel like this could also be solved with wood pieces connected at a 90 degree angle on each side.
      This monitor had a sunk in bezel rather than a perfectly flat one so for this reason I removed the casing as it wouldn't look stock. If you look at my one picture I removed the front buttons. I can always extend the wires and put the control board where the original one went in the Vewlix.
    • rewrite wrote:

      Coyo5050 wrote:

      How did the monitor fit when still in the case?
      If it were still in the case, how would you turn it on/off, and access the controls for the monitor?
      Ive decased to pop out the control panel and then shaved a little hole so the wires fit thru then out case back together. Some vesa mounts are built in to the case for projects ive done i had to do that. Was just curious if it even fit.
    • New

      jassin000 wrote:

      Yea its fucking tapped inside/resting on wooden blocks...


      "Then I used the old glass fixation system to fix the screen perfectly. Unframe the new screens are not a good idea, as they fit so well naturaly inside the vewlix frame."

      No way in hell I'd ever do something this amature/unprofessional!
      The LCD MUST be de-cased (unframe haha) and mounted (with god damn screws you chucklehead) inside the original Vewlix frame or I have ZERO interest.

      "dudez check out my awesome Chinese made Vewlix cab!" *breathes heavily near it* "oh fuck all my glue and rubber bands just came free!"

      I feel like the time is finally right for Draken to enter cab ownership, layer the monitor thick with hotglue baby we don't need no MF'n screws!

      Hello Jassin, I'm the owner of the Vewlix you mentioned above :)

      I think it's a complete different point of view, and I found you really hard, especially because as surprisingly as it is, I like proper work, and you'll understand why. I'm not saying it's the best option, I'm saying it's an alternative one.


      1. No need to unframe any screen and/or to find a compatible LCD panel to fit in the original frame.
      2. Warranty of the screen kept (mine cost me 600$, a 1440p LG 32GK850G-B).
      3. No Vewlix (chines or not) will be hurt. There is no glue/solder. So: with 8 screws you revert by the original Vewlix screen (woaw, what an horror show...).
      4. You place the screen you want, even 4k or maybe one day OLED (that was my first intention if you read the first topic).
      5. No dust, easy to clean (as I removed the glass).
      6. The screen is sticker to the frame, improving the feeling that the frame and the screen is one piece.
      7. By removing the glass you cancel all reflections.
      8. You can place a sharp 1080p screen for 180$ within 20minutes with no skill, without damaging anything.

      All this points couldn't be done with the original screen. And remember the point 3: you revert the setup within 20min in the original state.

      It's important also to understand that I'm giving an easy and alternative solution for people with no skill to change the screen they want. NO, the vewlix won't be damaged. When I had this idea in mind, I also started to unframe the screen I bought. unfortunatly, even if it's the same model Taito are selling, the case was a bit different :



      So I was stuck with an unframed 1080p screen. I decided to reframe it, and then I realised...why not putting the monitor, directly in the frame? So yes, I cut 2 pieces of wood quickly to try my idea ;) and I could improve a bit the fixations, but I wanted to show that with no skill, everyone can do it, and I'm pretty sure many people already changed their screen because of this topic.

      I took the risk to buy, unframe my first screen, facing an issue (LCD fits, but motherboard on the side can't be screwed on the original frame), and finding a solution that is WAY BETTER. With almost no information on internet regarding screen swapping, I'm really happy to offer this "reversible" alternative.

      Regarding the "poor Vewlix". No worries, it's in good hands. When I received it (second hand) the guys was what you think I'm haha (hope you changed your mind?). And I spent more than a month cleaning, putting back all missing screws, buying brand new plastic set, rewiring all boards properly, changing the speakers and...the screen ;)

      When I received it:



      after:



      But also trying to improve, like backlighting the top marquee (which type of paper, etc etc), sound speakers. Here is what looks my Vewlix today:



      You can find all infos there:
      forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=39614

      @HighFlow

      Funny to see you here! I finished my Hitbox with your plates! Guide is coming soon, here is the result:

      The post was edited 6 times, last by artik ().