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I don't think its really possible to shield unshielded speakers. Plus these have giant rectangle magnets and not the average round ones.

Here's a gallery of all the speakers:
https://imgur.com/a/S8YWcwv

Of all the ones I bought the Visaton SC 5.9 ND is the second best fitting one. I'm going to take a look back through this thread and pick up the other suggestions. I'll see how they fit and post more pics when they come in.
 
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Would some MuMetal not work? Depending on how strong the magnets and the direction of flux you should be be able to encase it in some steel or something to stop the distortion.
 
Would some MuMetal not work? Depending on how strong the magnets and the direction of flux you should be be able to encase it in some steel or something to stop the distortion.
That's not something I'm familiar with but it could be worth a shot. Too bad a roll looks like it's around $35
 
Some quick research says that you'd need steel that's 3/16 of an inch thick to totally stop "a speakers" magnetic interference. That could be WAY out of order, and I don't really have a reference for how thick 3/16 is, or how much it'd cost. I imagine it really depends on how strong the magnets are. If the steel is cheap enough getting a small box made out of some that thick and seeing what happens could be worthwhile.
 
well if it's square you can fashion your own much easier. honestly you could probably just get a sheet of thick stainless steel from home depot and stick it to the side of the speaker enclosure.
 
I was converting a component TV to use in a cab and when parting it out I noticed the speakers in the set looked like a good match. The speaker on the right in the pic is from the TV, next to a ghetto re-foam of an original Blast speaker. I did have to cut off the excess metal used to mount in the TV and drill some holes, but that was not a major issue. Unfortunately they are 8ohm but I just used one speaker in the plastic housing(and sealed up the empty speaker space). It seems to work good, better than that blown speaker farting that comes from rotted out ones.

tosh_speaker_25.jpg


Google did not help me with model of the speaker but in case ppl want to know, here are the labels printed on the speaker from the Toshiba TV:
04a15bwa
j0421h
 
I ended up using a SC 4.9 FL (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Visaton/SC-49-FL-8-ohm?qs=juaAHce7PkUuD6%2BMGBYQWQ==) in the middle position and this Sony 1-529-595-11 (https://ebay.us/SScCGc) in the bottom position.

I kept them wired in series, I probably should have put them in parallel to stay at 8 ohms but I also don't know what the Sony speaker is rated at (measuring with an ohm meter was ~6 ohms so it could go either way.) Also it sounds fine. I'm using a Sega Naomi amp.

The SC 4.9 kinda sounds meh. They're clear but they definitely lack bass on their own. I would not recommend using 2x2 of them. They do fit easily as they're smaller than the original speakers. You can drill 4 new holes if you center them. They cause little to no deformation of the speaker box.

I think the original tweeters are kind of shitty too but I didn't really look at them to see if they can be replaced easily enough. They're so piercing.

The Sony speaker sounds nice and fits at an angle so you can get two screws in the original mounting holes. I went with this instead of cutting the box. I wanted to find a solution that doesn't require damaging modifications or 3d printing or anything like that.

I don't really like the Sony speaker as a solution though since it seems to be discontinued and only available from "some guy on ebay." They're also way too expensive at $30 each after shipping. I would experiment further but I absolutely hate pulling these speakers out, and you don't get the full effect of the speaker til its in the cabinet. The biggest reason I'm using the Sony speakers is because I paid for them. I really wouldn't recommend them.


I will say that I temporarily used a single Aura NS2x3-184-4A (which is 4 ohms, I really cant get that right can I) with tape over the other hole and that sounds fine. I think the best bang for your buck fix is using 2x2 of these. They mount ok if you drill new holes for the screws. The backside of the cone part of the frame fits the best out of everything I bought that's a 2"x3". And they're only $7 or so. You definitely want to tape up any gaps. If you don't, it'll kill the bass. The speaker box plastic is pretty forgiving so even with the front totally deformed from the ill fitting speakers, all the screws still went in the side cover.

Here's some pics:
https://imgur.com/a/i8VsDXf
 
till @Derick2k gets well enough in mind un body to finish his projects like this one I was lucky enough to grab 4 speakers from yanton. I thought 1 cab didnt need replacing but I started hearing distortion in Captain America
 
Thanks to notsonic’s suggestion two posts above, I installed four of those Aura NS2x3-184-4A speakers in my Blast City. They sound great and fit snug. I used a hot glue gun to completely seal them in for good sound and I didn’t use screws. The case itself screwed back together nicely. The speakers are a bit better quality on paper than the originals, easily plug into existing wire with the same size tabs, and best of all are a solid solution at a good price.

Photos shown of old removed speakers and new ones installed before and after using glue gun.

Cost shipped was about $32-34 shipped for the four speakers using a coupon.
 

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Thanks for that. Parts Express does international shipping, so I'll go with these as well. I've been meaning to order some smaller speakers and 3D printing adapter plates for them, but I just can't get around to it. I'll stick them on with silicone.
 
Thanks to notsonic’s suggestion two posts above, I installed four of those Aura NS2x3-184-4A speakers in my Blast City. They sound great and fit snug. I used a hot glue gun to completely seal them in for good sound and I didn’t use screws. The case itself screwed back together nicely. The speakers are a bit better quality on paper than the originals, easily plug into existing wire with the same size tabs, and best of all are a solid solution at a good price.

Photos shown of old removed speakers and new ones installed before and after using glue gun.

Cost shipped was about $32-34 shipped for the four speakers using a coupon.
If you ever need to remove the hot glue, isopropyl alcohol works great. Just spray or pour some on the glue and give it a minute or two and it should come right off.
 
Thanks to whoever found those Aura NS2x3-184-4A speakers. I ordered from Parts Express. They are a little wide, but the plastic speaker case bends enough to fit them. If you center them in the hole, the original screws wedge the speaker down perfectly. I used some black caulk to seal up the visible holes. I also added foam circles held down with a dot of hot glue to dampen the tweeters.


After pulling out the speakers I realized how nasty this cabinet was. I ended up disassembling my entire Blast City and cleaning every square inch of it. I just finished putting it together. It sounds decent, but haven't tested full stereo yet.

Is the blast city capable of dual mono? Or, do mono boards just play from the left?

Pic of speakers before re-installing:

49709510141_2794cdf140_c.jpg
 
Anyone know if the BC can play from both left and right speakers with a mono jamma board. Mine only plays from left.
 
Anyone know if the BC can play from both left and right speakers with a mono jamma board. Mine only plays from left.
It should play from both speakers. Try removing the PSU and reinsert it a few times. If it helps, you could clean out the slide in connector.
 
Anyone know if the BC can play from both left and right speakers with a mono jamma board. Mine only plays from left.
It should play from both speakers. Try removing the PSU and reinsert it a few times. If it helps, you could clean out the slide in connector.
I actually removed the PSU and cleaned the connectors during the speaker fix. When I use the RCA connectors I get full stereo, but when I switch to JAMMA connector sound it's mono left. Where does the Blast City split mono audio to left and right? Does it happen on the JAMMA loom or in the PSU?
 
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