Colour balance or aged picture tube?

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    • Colour balance or aged picture tube?

      Hi have got another tube (ms29) for spare, this comes burn free and wonderfull colours but it is just a bit dimm on the darker areas and there it loses some details of the image, the contrast is high, the colors are good the white its ok but still have I have doubts about the calibration.

      someone who has a 15kz cga monitor could post a quick photo of the video test/colour bars on a cps3 card?

      This is this is what I got
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      The post was edited 1 time, last by Mukuro_W ().

    • Exactly, this is normally something that is adjusted with the color cutoff settings.
      If you turn up the flyback screen voltage, it will become brighter but the black background will become gray.

      Basically, I place the brightness adjustment in the middle and adjust the screen voltage till black is really black or even less if it appears 2 bright (like in a dark environment.)

      The problem with the color cutoff settings is that you have 2 adjust all 3 of them so that the color balance is correct again. You can see it when gray is really gray and not having a bluish or brownish tint.
    • Here is some photos, it is an Hitachi GMK-29FS3, common chassis on super neo 29 and Capcom impress Candy cabs, this chassis drive so well even Ms9 tube/yoke combo.
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      The post was edited 1 time, last by Mukuro_W ().

    • And yes the cut off pots are all on the neck board but It is very diccult for me to understand those settings it is like a Rubick Cube, If I touch one pot all collours miss match...here is a photo.
      Note that there are five pots and named by impress manual as B.BKG, G.BKG, R.BKG and B.Drive, R.drive
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    • basically another user have described better than me where is the issue:

      "When looking at color bar test patterns (such as the service menu color bars in the Capcom CPS2 games), I am not seeing some of the darker shades of color. They show up fine on the PC, but the arcade monitor just draws everything below a certain brightness as black.

      For example, if there are 16 shades of red, the darkest 4 shades aren't visible at all -- they are just black.

      For the most part the monitor image looks fantastic -- whites are bright and clear, etc.

      On the front of the monitor are RGB Gain controls and a brightness control. Tweaking these makes the image brighter and darker but does not reveal the hidden bars of color.

      On the back of the monitor are RGB "BKG" controls as well as "Drive" controls for I believe G and B (it's two of the three anyway). Toyed with these a bit and was unable to reveal the hidden bars of color.

      In the attached image, the shot on the left is what I would expect to see. The middle shot is what I actually see. The shot on the right is what happens when I tweak with the R "BKG" control."
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    • I had the same issue with missing red with no luck about a year or two ago.
      I remember following a guide with a recipe to reset the colors.
      Got the monitor looking reeeally good, but the dark red bars are still missing.
      Didnt really look into it much or ask after that, as i had a hard time explaining it.
      Just figure i would sacrifice a couple dark reds because I havent actually noticed it in game.
    • On the Impress cab the monitor is frameless and there is a small space to operate and/or remove and replace the entire chassis….any time you attempt to remove and replace the chassis the risks of damaging the tube neck or bend pins are high, you must find the perfect angle but it is not easy since some heatsink will pass alltheway at 2mm from the neck.... the Better way is remove the tube and then replace the chassis but I'm alone at the moment and those tubes are heavy and this should never be underestimated. I have both spare chassis and tubes, if I do not solve this issue I will replace the chassis and even the the tube if will be necessary. Now just looking at hose color bars maybe I can still solve…..
    • What Nem linked is a good guide to calibrate color.

      Here is another one.

      emphatic.se/?p=710


      On my Egret 2 for years I did the above. Then I read the ArcadeOtaku guide and got better results. Each chassis a little different in how the rgb gains/cutoffs brightness/contrast interact / age on caps. You really need to experiment a little.

      Calibrating it via emphatics guide I had the flyback screen pot lower, RGB cutoffs at 50%, brightness at 25%, RGB gains/contrast at 45% without color bleed. Contrast was a little dim with this method unless I like color bleed of whites.

      Doing it via the ArcadeOtaku guide I turned everything down then did flyback volts so it was a little higher than the one above, rgb cutoffs at 25%, brightness 50%, rgb gains 55-60%, and contrast near max depending upon game. I can go a lot higher on my gains and cutoffs but I get bleeding. Probably need a recap to get better contrast without bleeding. Tl;dr my contrast is pretty much perfect with this one.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by ChuChu Flamingo ().

    • It's also possible that the inputs of your monitor expect a higher video signal. This for instance happens when you connect a pc vga card to an arcade monitor. The result you will see is identical to yours.

      You normally shouldn't touch Rdrive and Bdrive for your issue as that's for the right side of your color bar.

      So normally, the RBKG, GBKG and BBKG should give you the adjustments you need. If you turn up red, the screen will become reddish like you see on your picture. Only after you turn up green and blue will the picture become color correct again.

      The only thing you need for such an adjustment is a nice big mirror so you can see the reflection of the picture while you are making the adjustments.
    • Thanks to all for helping me! bytheway i have fixed all just setting all colors gain and cut off, it was not so easy but due to the tutorial you have showed me it was a success..
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      The post was edited 1 time, last by Mukuro_W ().

    • ChuChu Flamingo wrote:

      What Nem linked is a good guide to calibrate color.

      Here is another one.

      emphatic.se/?p=710


      On my Egret 2 for years I did the above. Then I read the ArcadeOtaku guide and got better results. Each chassis a little different in how the rgb gains/cutoffs brightness/contrast interact / age on caps. You really need to experiment a little.

      Calibrating it via emphatics guide I had the flyback screen pot lower, RGB cutoffs at 50%, brightness at 25%, RGB gains/contrast at 45% without color bleed. Contrast was a little dim with this method unless I like color bleed of whites.

      Doing it via the ArcadeOtaku guide I turned everything down then did flyback volts so it was a little higher than the one above, rgb cutoffs at 25%, brightness 50%, rgb gains 55-60%, and contrast near max depending upon game. I can go a lot higher on my gains and cutoffs but I get bleeding. Probably need a recap to get better contrast without bleeding. Tl;dr my contrast is pretty much perfect with this one.
      You are 100% correct
      • Finally I got full color bars and, the most important, in the same time the strongest White ever seen without bleeding any colour, that was archived using a mirror in front of the cab, and using Cps2 color bars, beleave me the ones on Cps3 not are good for this job. I must perform this on My new Astro city, where this operation is more more easy due to the more space to access at all pots, on Impress cab is a pain, you must be almost a contorsionist just to have access at neck board pots wich are at 1cm from the psu. Finally I have build a wires adapter to pulled out the original psu and have a better access at cut off pots. After moving the cab I got some discolarion at one corner, used a degauss wand to elimate this issue.
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      The post was edited 2 times, last by Mukuro_W ().

    • Just got my colors fine tuned!
      If Mukuro didnt make this thread, i probably would have put it off for longer, or never have redone it.
      Thanks!

      I think my problem from before was locating the R/B gains on a Blast City. They are next to the brightness pot and power switch inside of the control panel BEHIND the metal wall. Had to take the pcb off from the back, inside of the cabinet, to access these gain pots.

      Tried to upload a picture, but its too big i guess.