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Capcom Forgotten Worlds - Repro Japanise Spinner Top Metal Part - Or Complete Spinner Repro

Hey @glstar. Did you ever make any further progress on the conversion kit for regular Taito spinners that you posted at the beginning of this thread? It looked like you were making some solid progress a few months back.

I'm all for the full reproduction that Derick is making, but for those of us that have Taito spinners in hand it would be easier and I'd imagine cheaper to go with the conversion you were developing and it looked like you were nearly there.
 
Derick2k said:
undamned said:
This may have already been discussed and I missed it/forgot, but for the love of pete, do not use 3D printed gears for production. They will not hold up. Nylon or metal gears should be available in droves if you can find a proper supplier.
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twistedsymphony said:
you can buy most plastic gears off the shelf, no reason to reinvent the wheel
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No 3d printed gears and such. I actually went to a precision bearing shop to see if they can help me source or fabricate the gears/spindles, etc.. as you can imagine, most places are not too enthused/motivated unless you are placing large orders. But yeah, Im waitng to hear back on that and what suggestions they have. Also, since it has a combination of plastic and metal gears, should I try to go all metal even if they cost a little more? Also, what metal should I be looking to get the gears made out of?
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I have a lot of experience with RC car racing, and they commonly use a combination of metal and plastic gears. For example, this style of RC car can reach speeds around 75 mph with the engine spinning around 40,000 rpm:

chassis-simon6.jpg




Here is a video of this style of car in action:

Metal gears seem to be commonly used when the diameter of the gear is small, but plastic gears are commonly used for larger diameters. I would advise against using all-metal gears because they are louder. For the low speeds at which these spinners would be operating I think all-plastic gears would be plenty strong. As far as metals used, I've never seen brass gears in RC cars, they are typically aluminum or steel.
 
West said:
Hey @[u]@glstar[/u]. Did you ever make any further progress on the conversion kit for regular Taito spinners that you posted at the beginning of this thread? It looked like you were making some solid progress a few months back.

I'm all for the full reproduction that Derick is making, but for those of us that have Taito spinners in hand it would be easier and I'd imagine cheaper to go with the conversion you were developing and it looked like you were nearly there.
Click to expand...
Project was stuck since the guy that is producing the metal parts had some logistic problems, but i was told in some times he should return to full work and those should continue their trip to the final stage.
 
nam9 said:
So... are these a good deal?
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no, that thing has been relisted about a half dozen times at this point because it's overpriced.

Normal Taito spinners are worth $50-$80 a piece depending on condition (Based on the fact that I've bought about 6 of them over the last year). I've seen NOS ones, still in box sell around $100 on eBay and KLOV.

Hard to say what the rest of the panel is worth but I'm sure it's less that that.
 
Hi :

Due to conflict of interest. I will withdraw.


Regards
Euphoria
 
Hi :

Not to be negative. But i would like to see a full repro of this item if possible.
As this may not be possible currently i am unable to confirm if you need to go another path.

Best wishes on your project though
Euphoria
 
I need a repro of the full set, really hope this gets released!
 
The button is just a regular OSBN-30.

The fault in that design is that I really don't think the spring in the microswitch has enough force to push the modded button top up.
 
I’m currently working on a US repro. I have the knob basically reproduced, just checking on the final weight density with different materials. I have precision gear guys looking into the gears sourcing compatible off the shelves ones sorta speak that will work as the original, the other thing I’m trying to do is compress the heigh of the stack so these can fit into shallower control panels as I want a pair to fit into my vewlix cabs. So I still got quite a bit of work to do.
 
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