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Sanwa T32H07S (KA) - Vewlix-F monitor brown banding on white screens

penrhos

penrhos

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Picked up a pair of Vewlix-F's both have the same issue with the screen - when you have a white background there's a slight brown banding running across the screen.

Both were pretty grimy when I got them and it took a complete pack of kitchen surface wipes to clean this one up (I did completely strip this cab down to the point of removing the loom to wash it).

I've taken the case off one but the only tutorial I've found was for the Vewlix-L screen and it's not the same.

My screen has the front glass fastened to the main panel with some really sticky hard tape - like electrical insulation tape but much harder and stickier. Consequentially I can't get it off to remove the front glass to see it it's just dirt behind the glass.

I've tried taking several pictures and this is the best one for showing the brown patch - next to the "N" of Naomi.

I'm assuming its either the backlight or glass front panel that's got dust on.

Any suggestions on if it's fixable or am I looking at a pair of new panels?

P1010389 (Large).JPG
 
I heard that the F monitors are not good quality when it comes to picture. They are only known for their low latency
 
Perfectly fixable if it is dust. And it looks like the normal brown dust Vewlix F issue to me. I suppose there's a chance it's panel wear, but you're not going to know until you clean the dust out anyway, so may as well.

Put the monitor down on the glass, undo all the screws around the edges, and pull the guts out the back if memory serves me. Then clean the panel and the inside of the glass, then reassemble.
 
Yup, you can clean them. BUT, I would do this like in a clean room, etc.. with dust free, anti static, micro fiber everything.
 
worst case I can fit the screen from my chewlix into the F while I strip it down and if I break it then the 32" LG monitor mod might have to suffice until I can afford a better screen.

I assume I just peal the tape off and use a thin lever to prise the glass off the front (like on macs & iPhones just on a bigger scale) I can use the conservatory as it has a large flat table and hard floor so I can give it a good clean before I start. Then wear latex gloves and use a microfiber cloth to minimise chances of grease/dust contamination. I have some silver ali tape for repairing ducting that should do to replace the old tape.
 
Once you take the tape off, the pieces separate very easily, you don’t even need a pry tool I think. You can separate the screen down to basically all it layers, you can even get to the backlight, diffuser and all. The problem will be cleaning those layers to get to the problem. You need to be able to light up the panel to see where your are cleaning. Good luck whatever you choose to do, document it all, might help others.
 
BlinG said:
I heard that the F monitors are not good quality when it comes to picture. They are only known for their low latency
Click to expand...
That ^

IMO aside from the law latency its one of the worst Vewlix monitors (I think the absolute worst was the first generation Vewlix-L).
The colors on mine were always poor/washed out, and even on full brightness it wasn't very vivid.

I think Taito still has the new new LCD in stock, its like 1400$ before shipping/tax/fees.

Also, set that screen to 4:3 bro... Naomi didn't output a 16:9 image, you are guilty of aspect incorrect display. ;)
index.php


Proper Naomi aspect ratio (4:3)...
cxGIMGf.jpg


Few things in life piss me off as much as "stretch-o-vision" (aka displaying a 4:3 image at 16:9 ratio).
 
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penrhos said:
I just wish LG or Samsung would release a 32" oled gaming monitor.
Click to expand...
4K 32" OLED would be sick, but for me to really be happy the hole pattern on the panel would need to line up perfectly.
Because I'm decasing the panel and properly mounting it inside the Vewlix frame.
I've already spread hatred all over other projects that take the "easy way" out (ie whole/complete monitor tapped inside Vewlix body compartment).
 
Don't worry - I only had it set like that to test the monitor - as soon as I'd got the control panel re-attached and wired up it was changed from wide to normal.

Tomorrow - I'm going to start stripping down the other one to clean it - that'll be interesting as I'm going to try and convert it from Fastio to JAMMA.
 
penrhos said:
convert it from Fastio to JAMMA
Click to expand...
How are you going to accomplish this?
  1. Hackery/homebrew, like I did with the HAS basically a supergun inside a machine.
  2. Or convert it to JVS first and use a Jammafier (JVS-to-JAMMA adapter).
  3. Or OR convert it directly to JAMMA with a Taito JAMMA kit (rare these days).
I did #1 with my Diamond Blue, I did #2 with my L-AMI and I did #3 with my F/Capcom.
The only option that avoids the Wei Ya PSU is #1 (and it still requires a PSU of course, just not that one).
SHUPoer.jpg


It's an important distingtion, because if you have the Wei Ya you'll also NEED (this is NOT optional) a Step Down.
P2gqoVn.jpg


Don't attempt to run ANY JAMMA boards from a Wei Ya PSU without a step down.
The 12v line will fluctuate wildly from 10v~16v, I blew the audio amp of a MVS-1FZ doing this.

Finally if you are going to convert to JVS and then adapt to JAMMA, don't make the mistake of buying a Riverservice adapter.
UQ1M2ob.png


I guess later revisions are "better" but IMO it's still a hunk of laggie shit.
The Jammafier is the superior product.
 
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I have the Taito upscaler (but no wires to go with it).

The plan is to build a custom JAMMA loom taking RGB+Sync to the upscaler, Controls up to the panel and adding a JAMMA PSU in the base - that way I can leave all the existing wiring in place (and use the Wai-Ya to run Naomi/246/256).

Power wise I'm more than sorted as I run my two Vewlix's on one of these...

https://airlinktransformers.com/product/use-japanese-appliances-in-the-uk-uk-ja2000

So I could have two Type-X3 setups running and still have power to spare.
 
That's an option, but honestly the Taito scaler isn't very good at all compared to the OSSC.
I'd say if your committed to the custom harness already, swap out the Taito scaler for a OSSC.

You are also very lucky in a sense, as I've talked extensively with Yugo (Taito parts contact) about it.
wbYsVna.jpg


That's the full kit parts list... You can still buy #3, 4, 5, 6, and you have #1!
So you could go almost full kit, if you wanted to.

Biggest problem would be the missing #2, the PCB passthru, but it's just a passthru...
You could make this easily!
 
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I don't need the PCB passthru as I'm joining the looms further up the chain by using JST YLP-15V + JST YLR-12V at the ends so it will plug directly into the P1 & P2 looms on the control panel.

I have to find the part numbers for the service/credit connector, rgb & power to the upscaler and the plug for the speakers and I should be ready to knock up the loom.

Part #3 is a linear volume pot - I just need the correct value (if you have one can you look it up please - should be printed on the case somewhere).

Plus I have a copy of the Jamma converter manual and a wiring diagram - If I can source the connectors & pins it'll be no more difficult to make than a Supergun harness and I've made dozens of those.

As I have parts 1,5,6,7 and can make part 4 I'll give it a try - if the upscaler is crap I have an XRGB-2, 2A, 3, mini-framemister & a DVDO VP30 I can test it with, I'd have to purchase a OSSC.
 
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That's incredible but I must say that a friend near me get a Chewlix wich comes wih a better monitor than my taito vewlix...on chewlix there is an IPS with incredible viewing angle for a such big lcd, colors are beauty and very incredible white/contrast also an acceptable scaler all on this monitor appear to work better than my vewlix I do not know about latency... And i know that there are two different thing but I prefer crt alltheway and I'm not an expert of those lcd screen. I will replace the lcd on my vewlix soon.
 
Uh... I've had PDF manual for the JAMMA Kit since like 2014 (came from Arcade Otaku)...
That's why I didn't bother to scan the physical copy that came with my kit.

I didn't know you guys wanted it or I would have posted it up long ago.

Do you need any other Vewlix manuals?
I've got almost all of 'em (including the JAMMA and 2J14B kits) only missing the Black Diamond (my buddy Bill has it but he won't let me tear it apart to scan it) and the Orange Diamond/Magician's Dead ( @Derick2k might have this, I know he got a cab).
 
Is that the one where the pages are all on the piss - if so that's the one I have. Its be nice if there was a copy of the manual where the pages were straight as it took ages to screen grab & straighten the wiring diagram above.

I could do with a high resolution picture of the actual jamma loom and the value of the volume pot as I'm going to make one up from scratch.
 
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