What's new

yavuzg

Professional
Joined
Aug 25, 2015
Messages
316
Reaction score
419
Location
Turkey
Hey guys, I finally finished my side project. :D It took 8 months and every part, even the screws, have been restored/cleaned/rebuilt, playfield touched up and clear coated etc. This was my first pinball restoration...


It was basically a junk before...


IMG_9122_zpsaqksspk3.jpg


IMG_9123_zpsn9eg0y37.jpg




... and after 8 months of total restore ...


IMG_9159.jpg


IMG_9142.jpg


IMG_9158.jpg


IMG_9143.jpg


IMG_9078.jpg
 
Last edited:
Can’t believe the before and after are the same machine!!!

Very very impressive :thumbsup:
 
Can’t believe the before and after are the same machine!!!

Very very impressive :thumbsup:
Believe me, even I'm not the same person either, after 8 months of work! :D :D :D

I've learned how to airbrush, clear-coat with HVLP airgun and metal welding during this project...

Reassembling the back side of the playfield was guru meditation :P

IMG_8915.jpg
 
Awesome job! Something to be proud of. If I had done it then it would never leave my collection ever.
 
Man, I can't find my old Elvira restore photos, just some of the early stuff. I'll try and dig, my starting playfield was even worse than yours. :P

Great job. I know exxxxxactly how much work that was lol.

elvira-worn.jpg
 
Very nice work, congratulations! :thumbsup:

I also have an EATPM in my basement awaiting a light refurbish (as the state atm is quite good).

Can you please elaborate a little bit more about the whole process of:
  • removing mylar
  • cleaning and preparing the pf for airbrush
  • your airbrush material and paint you used
  • the process of clearcoating with material and clearcoat you used
  • final steps in polishing and waxing

Many thanks!
 
Thank you all for your kind comments ;)

@Aurich I guess I've seen your restoration photos before since I remember the f**ed up face of Elvira :P

@mastercello I've documented all my work on a local website but unfortunately its in Turkish. However, I'll try to provide quick answers to your questions with photos ;)

First of all... If your playfield is in OK condition, do NOT touch it!!! Its a HUGE pain in the butt to disassemble everything, remove mylar, touch up/paint, clear coat, reassemble everything back...

Compare your playfield with mine (or like @'Aurich''s PF) then judge yourself and proceed...

OK, here are my methods;

Removing Mylar: I used a heat gun (actually the heat gun of my solder station) in medium setting (100 celcius) and used alcohol (IPA) and flour to remove the adhesive residue. Peel the mylar slowly but you will loose some of the insert decals no matter what you do. However, no paint was lifted during the procedure.


IMG_9993_zps1uurbynk.jpg


IMG_0002_zps61mebujq.jpg



Cleaning the PF: Well, people say "do not use water" to clean the PF and "apply a light clear coat before airbrush to lock down the original paint". Well, sure... Unfortunately, I had to use water to clean this play field. This junk was left under rain, locked up in a junk warehouse where rats have peed and shit, inside out. Sorry, cotton swaps and Naphta was not enough. And yes, unfortunately this procedure takes away some of the flaked paint... Just clean the play field BEFORE you remove the mylar.

IMG_9982_zpslqqfmqdf.jpg


Airbrush material: I've used an ordinary bottom fed airbrush. I used Createx paint (excellent quality, easy to work with, exact color remained after clear coart, highly recommend it). Use quality frisket paper to mask (not a cheap painters mask tape). And before airbrushing, don't forget to repair the highly worn areas.

IMG_0102_zpsrlh0h9dv.jpg


I also produced water slide decals to patch the worn artwork. Just don't forget to paint the areas white before applying the decals.

IMG_0127_zpsgse9mf00.jpg




IMG_0132_zps10oghegj.jpg


Clear coating: I used an ordinary local brand 2K acrylic (2 parts, resin + hardener) clear coat. Really nothing special about it. Just use the HS version (High solid).

IMG_8227.jpg


The first coat will look like nightmare :D don't get panicked. There will be small areas where clear will not stick. Don't worry. Just don't forget to apply a very light "dry" run. Wait 10-15 minutes. Apply the "wet" coat. Wait a day. Wet sand with 600 grit paper. Clean with naphta, start over to apply a next coat of clear. With this method you'll end up glass looking clear eventually. ;)

I used a cheap HVLP gun a 50 Liter air compressor. Again, people would say 50L capacity wouldn't be enough that compressor would kick in while you are spraying. Yes, that happens. But I didn't see any negative effect of it since you are applying a really wet coat and your mistakes is always been corrected by the next sanding and coating anyway.

I applied 8 coats of clear. I know people say "apply 2 or 3 coats MAX". But my PF was so f**ed up I ended up that much of clear coat. Eventually I sanded alot between coats so it was like I removed most of the clear material from the previous coat anyway.

Just don't forget to deal with the cupped and raised inserts before you clear ^^ And wear disposable Tywek suit and a decent mask and glasses. This clear coat stuff is really nasty...

IMG_7964.JPG

I've let the PF cure for 6 weeks before applying the last wet sanding, polish and wax. During this time I dealth with restoring all the rusted mechanical parts, bulb sockets, ramps etc...

IMG_8110.JPG

Polishing and Waxing: Although the last clear (above pic) may look like glass, it had imperfections. Dust particals, tiny popped out air bubles, most importantly, the clear "shrinks" by time and you notice that around the inserts. To correct these minor issues, I wet sand, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 2000. Then I used 3M Fast Cut Plus for polishing.

IMG_8768.jpg


.. and Novus 2 for final polish.

IMG_8771.jpg


I would have used a finer polish instead of Novus 2 because I didn't get expected "shine" with it. Nevertheless, it was OK before the wax.


IMG_8780.jpg

... and the final result. Not bad at all, after all my inexperience and f**k ups :P

IMG_8785.jpg
 
I guess I've seen your restoration photos before since I remember the f**ed up face of Elvira
Yeah I documented on Pinside I think. I did a waterslide decal to repair that, worked great under the clearcoat it the end. I don't have the game anymore, so can't take pics of the finished result, but somewhere I have photos.
 
Anyway, I'm very impressed by your work @yavuzg. Isn't it possible to reapply a new mylar or is it something that can't be done at home?
It is possible but really is optional. These modern 2K clear coats has a decent thickness, durability as well as elasticity just like a mylar.

Back in the day, during 80's, the varnish they have used on these machines was very thin and it was an alcohol soluble substance that does not have too much durability hence they have used big chunks of mylar to protect the PF. I could have bought and re-apply a similar laser cut mylar at an expense of $200+ which I opt to pass :) Didn't see/read too many people re-applying a mylar after a modern clear coated PF anyway...

May be for ocation machines, applying an additional mylar might be considered though, depending on preference...
 
Zero need for a full mylar with a 2 part clear, just need to keep the balls changed and shop the playfield at least lightly regularly, keep it waxed. The tragedy of my restore is all that wear I showed? They let it get like that, and then put the freaking mylar over it.
 
Back
Top