SEGA Saturn to Neo-Geo controller adapters

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    • Frank_fjs wrote:

      I've not tested with this particular item however can tell you that the Top3000 does indeed program Atmel chips and is able to set fuse bits.

      Personally I use my Mini Pro to program Atmel chips and specify fuse settings, works great and it opens INO files fine. Again, I've not tested with this adapter as I'm still awaiting PCBs to arrive.

      My chosen USB ISP software is unable to read INO files and requires HEX or BIN files otherwise I'd have used it with my ISP programmer.
      it's not expensive an usbips programmer ... but if Top3000 do the job for this release,it's handy , i will be excepted to wait days to arrieves from China.
      Multi's: CPS2 / F3 / M72 / NA1-2 / System16 B / Namco System1 Vector Labs' 4 in 1 (Horizontal)
      Superguns : HAS v3.1
      Scalers : OSSC v1.6 / RetroTINK-2X
      Scart switch : Gscartsw V5.2
      JNX: Spitfire
      NAC: Splitfire


      My Arcade Stuff
    • Soldering is fine. Tried Atmega8 and Atmega328P, no joy. Low fuse set to internal 8MHz clock.

      Guessing I can't program this way via an INO file.

      I've got a USB ISP programmer and use it with AVR burner software but can't try that as it can't open an INO file, need a HEX file.

      So I think I'm out.
    • I've compiled the HEX file, which gave me a result at least but not working yet.

      Now up/down are spammed, I can register left/right inputs and start. No face buttons.

      Going to try again tomorrow, see if I can obtain fuse settings that work.

      The 0.9 code doesn't do much, the autofire code seems most responsive.
    • You have to program the face buttons on the first startup. The buttonmapping code reads from the EEPROM to determine which buttonmap to use. Since the EEPROM is blank when you first program the chip, the buttons won't register. Just follow the button remapping procedure described in the readme and you will be fine.
      plus ça change,
      plus c'est la même chose,
      The more that things change,
      The more they stay the same.- RUSH- Circumstances
    • Tried the SMD version tonight.

      Excuse my programming rig, quickest thing I could put together.

      Works well, thanks again man.

      Only thing that doesn't work for me on both versions with the remapping / autofire code is the L R START combo for COIN. 3 x face buttons and START works to trigger coin so no big deal, just thought I'd mention it.
    • Frank_fjs wrote:

      Tried the SMD version tonight.


      Excuse my programming rig, quickest thing I could put together.

      Works well, thanks again man.

      Only thing that doesn't work for me on both versions with the remapping / autofire code is the L R START combo for COIN. 3 x face buttons and START works to trigger coin so no big deal, just thought I'd mention it.
      Oops, I forgot to put that in the documentation. After you asked me about the option to map coin to one of the L or R buttons I added a way to switch between different coin mappings. Just like the face buttons, if you don't set it initially it wont register.

      Hold down L and R simultaneously for 5 seconds. That will switch the select map to one of 3 options.

      1. Coin = L+R+START
      2. Coin = L
      3. Coin = R


      Just cycle through the options until you find the one you prefer.
      plus ça change,
      plus c'est la même chose,
      The more that things change,
      The more they stay the same.- RUSH- Circumstances

      The post was edited 2 times, last by Arthrimus ().

    • I've been grabbing them from Aliexpress.

      There's two different types I've come across but they both fit without issue.

      With the COIN remapping feature that I just found out about, this is the most comprehensive and perfect adapter ever. Seriously, there's absolutely nothing left to implement, impressive work.
    • I've been enjoying these adapters so much I decided to put my own personal spin onto the PCB.

      I've ditched the current limiting resistors (living on the edge man) and changed the SMD resistors and capacitors to 1206 (so I don't need to squint so much when soldering and to keep it as simple and quick to solder as possible). Ditched the programming jumper pad is it's not necessary to keep RST open. VIA free design, Tried to pay respect to your creation and made the silkscreen nice and tidy / exciting.

      Also made a simple programming helper PCB for easy connection to a USB ISP device.




    • Looks great! One thing I'm adding to my adapter PCB is an LED that indicates when you are in button mapping and auto fire modes. It's going to be connected to PD0.

      It will be connected to +5v then a current limiting resistor then PD0. PD0 will be driven low to turn the LED on. If you think you can fit it on your PCB that would be awesome.
      plus ça change,
      plus c'est la même chose,
      The more that things change,
      The more they stay the same.- RUSH- Circumstances
    • Arthrimus wrote:

      Looks great! One thing I'm adding to my adapter PCB is an LED that indicates when you are in button mapping and auto fire modes. It's going to be connected to PD0.

      It will be connected to +5v then a current limiting resistor then PD0. PD0 will be driven low to turn the LED on. If you think you can fit it on your PCB that would be awesome.
      All done. Managed to squeeze it all in and retain my zero VIA policy. :)

      Just want to confirm the routing, I've done it thusly:

      U1 PIN 30 (PD0) to R3 PAD 1
      R3 PAD 2 to LED CATHODE
      LED ANODE TO +5V